Dedicated 15A Outlet

[rv46]

We wanted a dedicated 15A outlet for hairdryer, space heater, etc. I wanted a circuit breaker inside so I would not have to go outside.


Parts:

[rv46]

@BurbMan, you are correct. That is exactly why I went with a 15A on the inside.

[BurbMan]

DrewE wrote:
Wouldn't the 20A outlet he's plugging the other end into have an appropriate circuit breaker or fuse anyhow? I don't suspect there's any need (by code, nor for safety) to have the little circuit breaker he has—it's purely for convenience in resetting should it be overloaded. This is basically just an extension cord, albeit one mounted permanently in a vehicle. If a power strip can use this kind of breaker, and a cord none at all, I guess I have trouble understanding how it's suddenly dangerous when used in an outlet box....

100% Correct. The pedestal outlet that he's plugging into is a 20A GFI-protected outlet. Technically there si no need for the outlet in the trailer to be GFI protected because it is not in a wet area or outside, but nonetheless it will be via the pedestal outlet.

Second, the pedestal outlet is protected by a 20a breaker at the pedestal. The 15a inside the RV is strictly for convenience. If the OP loads more that 15a on the circuit, the inside breaker will trip, and can be easily reset from inside the RV. In the event of catastrophic short that grenades the inside breaker, the pedestal breaker will also trip.

[John___Angela]

Good job. Thanks for sharing.

[RTBabich]

RoyB wrote:
I always carry a couple of Extension cords with us on trips and plug into 15A/20A pedestal circuits to run our electric heaters or other high wattage things.
It is neat to have these so we don't over load the 30A Pedestal Breakers at times... Roy Ken

This is why these forums are great - sharing ideas. I had never considered using the 15A pedestal circuits before to not overload the 30A circuit. I added 4 15A outlets, 2 on each side of our trailer and changed a single 15A breaker to a double to put them on. The first in sequence is a GFCI and all are in weatherproof boxes with waterproof conduit. When we can we try to cook outside with electric, especially bacon. I like having the outlets all around outside if I need to use a drill, tire pump, polisher, etc. I can add a 15A extension cord alongside the 30A cord, plug the 15A cord into a new box with a 15A male socket and go thru an On-On switch to select the source for the outside outlets - 15A breaker or pedestal breaker.

[rv46]

Circuit Breaker
Schurter TS-710-15 - eBay for $7.00 for two
I drilled the hole and filed down the side to make it fit. I used hot glue to secure it in place.

Wall Plate (Bucky was right about the "build you own")
Lowe's

[austinjenna]

That was a very nice and clean job that you did. I am just too lazy to do that and just run the extension cord thru the slide to the pedestal. I dont think I could cut a hole in my side, I would be standing for a long time with that drill in my hand thinking 'Do I really want to do this?' LOl

[RoyB]

I always carry a couple of Extension cords with us on trips and plug into 15A/20A pedestal circuits to run our electric heaters or other high wattage things.

It is neat to have these so we don't over load the 30A Pedestal Breakers at times...

With our OFF-ROAD POPUP we just run the extension cords through a window flap.

All of our outside 120VAC connections for things always get connected to the campground pedestal 20AMP connections instead of the trailer outside 120VAC connection for same reason.

Nice job on your install...

Roy Ken

[LarryJM]

I added two separate dedicated 15A outlets when I upgraded my electrical service from 30A to 60A. You can see the details and where I got the equipment and the costs HERE. Make sure you read all the captions since that is where the "MEAT" is.

Larry

[Bucky_Badger]

CA62Mini wrote:
Parts List for Breaker,and wall Plate?
Thanks for sharing

Answering for the OP..looks like the wall plate is a "build your own"
Our menards has them
http://www.menards.com/main/p-2366272-c-6474.htm

http://www.menards.com/main/p-2366281-c-6477.htm

But one can be bought whole
http://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wall-plates/combination/1-blank-strap-mounted-1-duplex-outlet...

push button CBs are available at amazon and E bay
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Circuit-Breaker-Panel-Mount-15-Amp-pushbutton-quick-connect-50203-/221550457...

[Big_Katuna]

I added one under our bed too for when we are on 30 A.

My load manager and breaker panel is under the bed so I added the recep and used a construction style extension cord and ran it out the same cable tube all the power comes in through from the outside power bay.
I leave the extension cord coiled up on top of the inverter and plug it in to the pedestal
Which is on a breaker.

For DWs hair dryer so we can still run both ACs on 30A.

[DrewE]

myredracer wrote:
I would be questioning the interrupting capacity of a circuit breaker like that. Residential type breakers (and in pedestals) will have a minimum ampere interrupting capacity (or "AIC" for short) of 10,000 amps by code. Those mini-breakers often only have a rating of 1,000 or maybe 5,000 amps.

With too small an interrupting capacity, under short circuit conditions, the peak amount of current a system can deliver can cause a breaker to explode, catch fire or fail to operate with potentially serious consequences.

If there happens to be enough overall impedance in the circuit between the mini-breaker and the power company's transformer, and you have a short circuit, you *might* be lucky, but if the transformer is nearby, you may not be. And the bigger the utility transformer, the higher the let-through current will be (for ex., pad-mounted transf. serving many users).

The safe and easiest thing to do is just match what's in the pedestal which is going to be a min. 10,000 AIC rating.

Some brief simplified info.:

here
and here

or some not so simplified info:
here
and here

Wouldn't the 20A outlet he's plugging the other end into have an appropriate circuit breaker or fuse anyhow? I don't suspect there's any need (by code, nor for safety) to have the little circuit breaker he has—it's purely for convenience in resetting should it be overloaded. This is basically just an extension cord, albeit one mounted permanently in a vehicle. If a power strip can use this kind of breaker, and a cord none at all, I guess I have trouble understanding how it's suddenly dangerous when used in an outlet box....

[myredracer]

I would be questioning the interrupting capacity of a circuit breaker like that. Residential type breakers (and in pedestals) will have a minimum ampere interrupting capacity (or "AIC" for short) of 10,000 amps by code. Those mini-breakers often only have a rating of 1,000 or maybe 5,000 amps.

With too small an interrupting capacity, under short circuit conditions, the peak amount of current a system can deliver can cause a breaker to explode, catch fire or fail to operate with potentially serious consequences.

If there happens to be enough overall impedance in the circuit between the mini-breaker and the power company's transformer, and you have a short circuit, you *might* be lucky, but if the transformer is nearby, you may not be. And the bigger the utility transformer, the higher the let-through current will be (for ex., pad-mounted transf. serving many users).

The safe and easiest thing to do is just match what's in the pedestal which is going to be a min. 10,000 AIC rating.

Some brief simplified info.:

here
and here

or some not so simplified info:
here
and here

[time2roll]

I assume the 15a inlet is plugged into a GFI. Second GFI is not needed.

[CA62Mini]

Parts List for Breaker,and wall Plate?
Thanks for sharing