DIY RV Electricity
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Nov-30-2013 10:02 AM
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Hello! We’re currently working on an RV conversion project and are gearing up to install electricity. Since we do a mix of boondocking and campsite camping where we have power access, I’m looking for a system that will compliment both. It also takes into account the equipment we already have, which is everything that doesn’t have a price underneath it on the chart Above. Since we already have an inverter, and want to conserve our batteries when camping we’re thinking about a converter/charger. Most of our rig is built to run of DC, with the exception of a possible air conditioning unit in the future (which we wouldn't run off grid). Because of this, we wanted an idiot proof way to keep our converter from running at the same time as our inverter without the complication of a sub panel. I ran across this post in the process: Cam Switch Inverter Installand felt that a cam switch was the way to go. Please let me know if you see any pitfalls in this design that could hurt us in the future. I tried to include all information of the equipment we have and the equipment we are planning to buy. I also haven’t decided on a distribution panel. I understand they have ones with the converter built in, but I’m more privy to keeping them separate for ease of future modifications. I’m currently leaning towards this one from Progressive Dynamics. Thanks so much for looking!
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Dec-14-2013 09:30 AM
http://handybobsolar.wordpress.com/about/
He has a lot of good info on powering your rig.
Cummins 400hp ISL CM850
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Dec-01-2013 09:19 AM
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Dec-01-2013 08:58 AM
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Nov-30-2013 05:03 PM
1. No sub-panel required
2. All CB functionality is retained
3. All circuits to be powered by shore power only are automatically switched off when inverter is selected
4. Center "off" position assures "break before make"
5. All 120V AC outlets are powered by inverter
6. Wiring is a bit of work, but not complicated or difficult
7. Shore power cord can be connected to shore power or generator and not require an additional transfer switch
I fail to understand how a manual switch with 32A rated contacts would not perform as well as a 30A rated ATS. Also, I never change switch position under load.
2007 Tundra DC 4X4 5.7, Alcan custom rear springs, 2009 Cougar 245RKS, 370 watts ET solar, Victron BMV-712, Victron SmartSolar 100/30, 200AH LiP04 bank, ProWatt 2000.
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Nov-30-2013 04:04 PM
Gdetrailer wrote:Btruck wrote:
Thanks for the response Gdetrailer! We looked into the option regarding the inverter with the transfer switch/built in charger. We already have an inverter though that does not have the internal charger/transfer switch, and don't want to put out the money at this point. We may switch to that in the future, but currently want to stick with what we have. The cam switch is a cheap fix in the meantime. I'm curious about what you said regarding the cam switch rating. I went with what the OP in the linked post went with, but I can choose a different rating.
Switch contacts have different "ratings" depending on the TYPE of load (IE resistive or inductive), 32A resistive rating won't cut it when it comes to inductive loads like your A/C unit. Not to mention you need to know the actual voltage the contacts are rated for at that current rating, hopefully your switch is rated for at least 120V.
Something else to take into consideration is if the switches switch in the correct order. Must be careful that the contacts BREAK (the old circuit) before MAKING (the new circuit). Some switches actually can MAKE (the new circuit connection) before breaking (the old connection) which can cause a lot of problems.
A 30A ATS switch at $75 HERE is not going to be all that much more expensive than any high current multi-pole 120V switch and it will greatly simplify the whole process in the end...
On edit.. I should also mention that a ready made ATS also has built in switch over delay protection. This can be extremely important since many devices can get rather confused or even damaged when you flip from one AC source to another unsyncronized AC source.
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Nov-30-2013 03:53 PM
Btruck wrote:
Thanks for the response Gdetrailer! We looked into the option regarding the inverter with the transfer switch/built in charger. We already have an inverter though that does not have the internal charger/transfer switch, and don't want to put out the money at this point. We may switch to that in the future, but currently want to stick with what we have. The cam switch is a cheap fix in the meantime. I'm curious about what you said regarding the cam switch rating. I went with what the OP in the linked post went with, but I can choose a different rating.
Switch contacts have different "ratings" depending on the TYPE of load (IE resistive or inductive), 32A resistive rating won't cut it when it comes to inductive loads like your A/C unit. Not to mention you need to know the actual voltage the contacts are rated for at that current rating, hopefully your switch is rated for at least 120V.
Something else to take into consideration is if the switches switch in the correct order. Must be careful that the contacts BREAK (the old circuit) before MAKING (the new circuit). Some switches actually can MAKE (the new circuit connection) before breaking (the old connection) which can cause a lot of problems.
A 30A ATS switch at $75 HERE is not going to be all that much more expensive than any high current multi-pole 120V switch and it will greatly simplify the whole process in the end...
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Nov-30-2013 03:49 PM
I would use an automatic transfer switch to connect the inverter. If no subpanel get a switch with converter outlet to avoid the loop. Not sure how the cam switch will have four feeds into the distribution panel that generally has one main connection.
I would go 80 amp PD converter with all that battery. Mount the converter close to the battery with #4 wire. No second connection to the 12v panel is needed.
Not sure about solar penney charge controller. Can it be programmed to automatically adjust between storage and in-use charging profiles? I think you may want more than 200 watts of solar so this might push into 24v panels and a quality MPPT controller.
I assume you meant 2 in series, 3 parallel for the batteries.
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Nov-30-2013 03:13 PM
Is P4 for the air conditioner?
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Nov-30-2013 02:14 PM
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Nov-30-2013 02:09 PM
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Nov-30-2013 01:43 PM
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Nov-30-2013 01:27 PM
Move your AC, water heater, and converter to the (new) sub-panel.
Theory is on generator, or shore power (automatically switch between if available) you have ac, electric water heater, battery charger (converter), and the entire rest of the trailer. Lacking shore / generator power it load sheds the big stuff, and powers the entire rest of the trailer off the inverter.
You said you already had a automatic transfer switch, if it is in good shape, use it for the inverter input. You can plug the shore power plug into the generator if you want to pinch pennies.
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Nov-30-2013 12:41 PM
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Nov-30-2013 12:00 PM
The reason that the generator is not on a transfer switch between the shore power is because the Generator is not actually wired in and I don't see a use for both ever at once anyway (not to mention that our Genny has a 30amp plug straight into it). When boondocking we'll plug in our genny, when camping we wont. I didn't think about what you said regarding 30amp plug arcing/over-heating - are the related issues something that the Surge protector would guard against (other than, well, fire - of course)? Thanks a ton for your feedback, a transfer switch between the genny and shore power is something that I'm going to look at more seriously.