Fridge Fan - Another Idea

[mbopp]

So has anybody tried using a 12V computer fan tied across the gas solenoid? The fan would run only when the gas burner was on.
And / or using a 115V fan across the heater element?

[Ex-Tech]

I did the same as rod knocker.
You need airflow over the cooling unit fins when on gas or electric. The same amount of heat is present on either mode.
Using a fan switch at around 90 degrees is the way to go. Be sure that you use a manual on-off switch or the fan will turn on when temps hit 90 degrees even if the fridge is off.
Mine is a 12-volt dc computer fan.

[jaycocamprs]

If I were going to use a AC fan these look like they would do the job. Fan Cord with Thermal Switch

[rodknocker]

I used a temp switch, I think 80 degree, fastened to the hot flow side of the fridge unit,surface contact type held on to the cooling line by a stainless hose clamp. Switch only runs when the unit is cooling and works on either gas or elec. Also have a manual sw mounted behind the cover if I want to totally turn off. The temp sw turns on the two 4 inch electronics cooling fans mounted to the bottom of the upper coils. Pushes air across the coils and out the upper vent cover. Made a huge diff in cooling, typically run two temp settings lower than before. I have less than 60 bucks in all of it.

[moisheh]

KJINTF: Thanks

Moisheh

[KJINTF]

moisheh

Go to the ARP web site "documents/downloads" section
The data is embedded in several of the really nice free documents
All excellent reading material
The owners manual has a few listed as do the other documents
The exact one he suggests is available from digikey, however there are several others available

603-1571-ND
BLOWER 12VDC 97.2X94.4X33MM
HTSUS: 8414.59.6060 ECCN: EAR99
LEAD: LEAD FREE ROHS: ROHS COMP REACH: REACH UNAFFECTED DEC-2012

[moisheh]

kjintf: Can you tell me where on the ARP website he has posted info on his suggested fan? Thanks

Moisheh

[spike99]

.

For my custom setup (behind the fridge):

- Manual off/on switch on the outside plastic door. re: - click here -
Note: Computer fans say they are silent but at night (when sound travels), my wife wants the fan turned off. This manually off/on is my "keep wife happy switch". LOL!

- 1 x "silent" 12V Computer Fan on its rear coil. re: - Click Here -
Note: Computer fan is sucked against the coil using black plastic pull ties.

- I also have an inline fuse from "always live" 12 DC source to switch. Think I have a little 2 Amp fuse.

In the future, I might install a thermostat. Being a computer fan and computer fans inside computers are on 24/7 for 8+ years, I don't worry about it wearing out. For me, I only manually turn the fan on when "hot season" starts and turn off when "hot season" settles down. And, turn off at night when my wife "gives me the look". LOL. This spring, I plan to install fans within the Flu area. Thus, sucking the hot air up / out the vertical flu. This is an easy 12V computer fans (3 x little ones) upgrade as well.

Long mumblings short. My custom fridge rear fan is on 24/7 for 2 months (average). Much less run time then indoor computer case fans. Thus, I don't worry about mandatory thermostat or turning OFF/ON when only needed. And during the daytime, I cannot hear the "silent" fan in the background either.

Hope this helps in your research.

[WyoTraveler]

Problem with the fan across gas selenoid is it would run even when it was extremely cold outside. Plus the fan should run when fridge is hot even if it is on electric.

[Big_Katuna]

Outside for the fins or inside? Mine came with thermo-controlled stack fans. I bought the little muffin fan for inside that wires across the light. When the door closes, the fan runs. Works great.

[KJINTF]

Sure have - on the gas solenoid - works great for me
Remember the gas is turned on/off when needed for system cooling
So you could say the blower is controlled by a thermostat

I suggest you take a close look at this site

https://sites.google.com/site/arprvsafer/home

The fans he suggests are the way to go
It's NOT the standard computer muffin fan but instead a 12Vdc blower motor

I installed the ARP device and did some testing / data logging on both gas and electricity. Really opened my eyes saw some temperature swings that I was NEVER aware of. Since we use our frig 99.9% of the time on gas the propane solenoid was the perfect solution.

I left alone the stock 4" computer muffin fan which is mounted 1/2 way up the frig controlled by a small button thermostat screwed to the top coils

To reduce the blower motor noise I added a three terminal 8Vdc regulator - 2/3 or more of the air gets moved and the noise was completely eliminated. Current consumption an additional 250ma for the blower.

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I think using a thermostat is a better idea. I'd also favor 12 volt vs 120 volt unless there is a large battery bank.