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Inverter installation and automatic transfer switch

DOITHARD
Explorer
Explorer
Need help!

2016 Lance 1172

I'm in the planning stages of purchasing and figuring out installation of a 2500 watts inverter.

I would like to install inverter 120v to camper 120v panel. However, camper has an existing automatic transfer switch...can the inverter be connect to the ATS and if yes, which feed shore or generator?

PS/ I realize that I'm restricted on amperage...I will only be using 120v for TVs, Directv receivers or charging phones and lap tops. Maybe once in a while a coffeemaker or MW.

Thank you in advance!

Carlos
'12 F450 6.7L, 4x4 Crewcab Longbed Airlift 5000 Stableload Reese 48" ext Torklift Fastguns Blistein 4600 Bigwig Rear Sway Bar.
'16 Lance 1172 Loaded
'16 Haulmark Vnose 20
'12 Range Rover Sport
Honda Rincon 03'
Pol 02' TB 250
Kids: 4,8, 9 & twins 28
Patient wife
32 REPLIES 32

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
MrWizard wrote:
any reason
NOT to put a RV female plug attached to the inverter
and simply plug the shore power cord into the inverter
lots of people have done it this way
saves a whole lot of wiring hassles

you still have to make sure the converter is turned off and WH and fridge are on Manual LP, NOT auto mode


That's how I and others on this forum are doing it. Just have to remember to turn off the charger and a few other circuits.
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HondoFlatty
Explorer
Explorer
HI, I just joined the forum and I know this thread is a little old but this info is great and exactly what I was looking for. I have a new Momentum with factory generator. I'm installing my inverter and want it 3rd in line. My last trailer didn't have a gen and I had the inverter primary with a single ATS. This time around, with 3 power sources,I think I'd like to have it last in line..

Anyway, my question, I also have an EMS to install. My original thought was to install it just before the panel so it would protect from all three sources but my new ATS is Progressive Dynamics with extensive built in protection similar to the EMS, just without the lifetime warranty and readout panel. Now, using your this diagram as an example, I'm thinking to use my new ATS in place of the factory one, moving the factory one to the shore/inverter slot and installing the EMS on the shore power cord only. This way, the EMS would be the first to blow if there was a shore power problem and the warranty would take of it and the ProDyn ATS would protect from a less likely problem with the gen. The only thing that wouldn't be protected is the factory switch on the inverter leg, which I'm not to worried about because it's a quality inverter and the switch is factory low quality that I would mind replacing of I had to..

Am I missing something? Anyone have any other thoughts?

Thank you!!!!

mikestock
Explorer
Explorer
I installed one of these in my fifth wheel and after a couple of years started smelling insulation burning. I found that some of the pre-wired connections had overheated, melted and were in danger of catching fire. I removed the it and added a separate 30 amp feed in the main box.

Although my box was Square D, I was able to use this Siemens mechanical interlock device with a very simple alteration, consisting of bending a tab. Never had to worry about double feeding. Used a 30 amp extension cord, wired into the 30 amp feed and brought it out the front fifth wheel compartment, where my inverter was installed. I could also plug it into my Honda inverter generator in the truck bed.

Veebyes
Explorer II
Explorer II
I think you are facing the same delema I did a few years ago when installing my PSW inverter/charger.

Removing the cheap & nasty converter/charger & throwing that as far as I could was the easy part. I am pretty sure I could have done the same with the transfer switch since the documentation on the inverter charger did talk about automatic sensing of 120AC.

However, not being 100% sure, I left the ATS in & ran a shunt, as instructed, right to the 120VAC panel.

My 2000W PSW inverter charger is plenty big enough to handle most anything requiring 120VAC however the battery bank is not. The drill when drycamping is to turn circuit breakers for the microwave, the fridge & the heaters OFF so that they cannot be inadvertently used & rapidly kill the battery bank.
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Calkidd
Explorer
Explorer
Or what you can do it what I did. I use a 120volt 15amp DPDT toggle switched. This way I go between the inverter and the breaker to selected plugs. Granted there are 30 amp DPDT switches out there and by no means would I used this switch to alternate power for the microwave.

DOITHARD
Explorer
Explorer
DrewE wrote:
I think most RV electrical panels are accessed by pulling them from the front. I know for sure mine is. (I'm not talking about just removing the cover over the circuit breaker wiring, which always is from the front, but about getting at the wires etc. behind the panel.)

At any rate, if you wish to power the entire AC electrical system from the inverter, using an additional transfer switch, you can put the transfer switch in a few different places, and I think where it ought to go depends mostly on what priorities you would like for the various power sources. I'll attempt to illustrate with rather crudely drawn diagrams.

With just a generator and a shore power connection, the generator typically has priority over the shore power (and a delay before the transfer switch changes over to permit it to get up to speed and under control), like this. I'm using a start to mark the priority input to the ATS.



If you want the inverter to have priority over both the generator and the shore power connection, you can connect the new transfer switch after the existing transfer switch with the inverter having the priority input, like this.



If you want the inverter to have priority between the generator and the shore power input, you can connect the new transfer switch between the shore power input and the existing transfer switch, like this, giving the inverter the priority over the shore power.



If you want the inverter to have the lowest priority, you can connect it similarly to the previous except swap which input to the new transfer switch has priority.



If your shore power cord is permanently attached to the RV and gets stored in some sort of a compartment, I would suggest not getting a transfer switch and instead simply installing a socket in the storage compartment to plug the shore power cord into. That would cost considerably less money, probably be easier to wire, and is not a significantly greater amount of work to use in typical cases as you simply plug the cord in when you stow it.

My personal opinion is that powering the entire RV 120V electrical system from the inverter is rarely the best option. I would rather have selected circuits that are either switched or dedicated to inverter usage. That's personal preference, not absolute gospel truth.


I wanted to thank you for your help and instructional diagrams, they were a big help...chose the inverter installation with least priority. Finished last night. Inverter and generator ATS are working fine. Today will try shore power to make sure everything is ok. Again TY.
'12 F450 6.7L, 4x4 Crewcab Longbed Airlift 5000 Stableload Reese 48" ext Torklift Fastguns Blistein 4600 Bigwig Rear Sway Bar.
'16 Lance 1172 Loaded
'16 Haulmark Vnose 20
'12 Range Rover Sport
Honda Rincon 03'
Pol 02' TB 250
Kids: 4,8, 9 & twins 28
Patient wife

DOITHARD
Explorer
Explorer
SoundGuy wrote:
DrewE wrote:
My personal opinion is that powering the entire RV 120V electrical system from the inverter is rarely the best option. I would rather have selected circuits that are either switched or dedicated to inverter usage. That's personal preference, not absolute gospel truth.


Ditto. 🙂
'12 F450 6.7L, 4x4 Crewcab Longbed Airlift 5000 Stableload Reese 48" ext Torklift Fastguns Blistein 4600 Bigwig Rear Sway Bar.
'16 Lance 1172 Loaded
'16 Haulmark Vnose 20
'12 Range Rover Sport
Honda Rincon 03'
Pol 02' TB 250
Kids: 4,8, 9 & twins 28
Patient wife

gmctoyman
Explorer
Explorer
On my 30a rig, I put in a 2000W inverter, with a built-in xfer switch. I put a 30A plug on the inverter input, I put a 30a receptical on the original rig xfer switch. Plugged them together. I put a 30a receptical on the inverter output, and a 30a plug on the feed to the main breaker. Plugged them together. The entire rig is then fed from shore power, generator, or inverter. Hair dryer, curling irons, microwave, coffee pot.....you don't wanna be stupid enough to run the AC from the batteries, but you can. You can also drop the inverter from the system easily if you need to.
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DOITHARD
Explorer
Explorer
DrewE wrote:
I think most RV electrical panels are accessed by pulling them from the front. I know for sure mine is. (I'm not talking about just removing the cover over the circuit breaker wiring, which always is from the front, but about getting at the wires etc. behind the panel.)

At any rate, if you wish to power the entire AC electrical system from the inverter, using an additional transfer switch, you can put the transfer switch in a few different places, and I think where it ought to go depends mostly on what priorities you would like for the various power sources. I'll attempt to illustrate with rather crudely drawn diagrams.

With just a generator and a shore power connection, the generator typically has priority over the shore power (and a delay before the transfer switch changes over to permit it to get up to speed and under control), like this. I'm using a start to mark the priority input to the ATS.



If you want the inverter to have priority over both the generator and the shore power connection, you can connect the new transfer switch after the existing transfer switch with the inverter having the priority input, like this.



If you want the inverter to have priority between the generator and the shore power input, you can connect the new transfer switch between the shore power input and the existing transfer switch, like this, giving the inverter the priority over the shore power.



If you want the inverter to have the lowest priority, you can connect it similarly to the previous except swap which input to the new transfer switch has priority.



If your shore power cord is permanently attached to the RV and gets stored in some sort of a compartment, I would suggest not getting a transfer switch and instead simply installing a socket in the storage compartment to plug the shore power cord into. That would cost considerably less money, probably be easier to wire, and is not a significantly greater amount of work to use in typical cases as you simply plug the cord in when you stow it.

My personal opinion is that powering the entire RV 120V electrical system from the inverter is rarely the best option. I would rather have selected circuits that are either switched or dedicated to inverter usage. That's personal preference, not absolute gospel truth.


Great job in explaining...TY
'12 F450 6.7L, 4x4 Crewcab Longbed Airlift 5000 Stableload Reese 48" ext Torklift Fastguns Blistein 4600 Bigwig Rear Sway Bar.
'16 Lance 1172 Loaded
'16 Haulmark Vnose 20
'12 Range Rover Sport
Honda Rincon 03'
Pol 02' TB 250
Kids: 4,8, 9 & twins 28
Patient wife

SoundGuy
Explorer
Explorer
DrewE wrote:
My personal opinion is that powering the entire RV 120V electrical system from the inverter is rarely the best option. I would rather have selected circuits that are either switched or dedicated to inverter usage. That's personal preference, not absolute gospel truth.


Ditto. 🙂
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DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
I think most RV electrical panels are accessed by pulling them from the front. I know for sure mine is. (I'm not talking about just removing the cover over the circuit breaker wiring, which always is from the front, but about getting at the wires etc. behind the panel.)

At any rate, if you wish to power the entire AC electrical system from the inverter, using an additional transfer switch, you can put the transfer switch in a few different places, and I think where it ought to go depends mostly on what priorities you would like for the various power sources. I'll attempt to illustrate with rather crudely drawn diagrams.

With just a generator and a shore power connection, the generator typically has priority over the shore power (and a delay before the transfer switch changes over to permit it to get up to speed and under control), like this. I'm using a start to mark the priority input to the ATS.



If you want the inverter to have priority over both the generator and the shore power connection, you can connect the new transfer switch after the existing transfer switch with the inverter having the priority input, like this.



If you want the inverter to have priority between the generator and the shore power input, you can connect the new transfer switch between the shore power input and the existing transfer switch, like this, giving the inverter the priority over the shore power.



If you want the inverter to have the lowest priority, you can connect it similarly to the previous except swap which input to the new transfer switch has priority.



If your shore power cord is permanently attached to the RV and gets stored in some sort of a compartment, I would suggest not getting a transfer switch and instead simply installing a socket in the storage compartment to plug the shore power cord into. That would cost considerably less money, probably be easier to wire, and is not a significantly greater amount of work to use in typical cases as you simply plug the cord in when you stow it.

My personal opinion is that powering the entire RV 120V electrical system from the inverter is rarely the best option. I would rather have selected circuits that are either switched or dedicated to inverter usage. That's personal preference, not absolute gospel truth.

goducks10
Explorer
Explorer
I did mine the hard way, but I wanted everything separate. I installed a 1000W PSW inverter and ran 3 separate wires for 3 separate 120V type plugins. I have a junction box next to it, where all 3 wires run from to the separate plugins.
It was a hassle to run a couple of the wires but worth it. I have a plug in near the rear, one near the TV in the center and one in the front bedroom. We can now run phone chargers, the TV, electric clock, etc.
The coolest part is the remote on/off switch that I bought. It's plugged into the invertor via a Ethernet type cable. I mounted it in a centrally located place. This way I can turn on the invertor from inside the 5er. It also has a built in battery monitor on it.
I suppose it would've been easier to just use the shore power cord like some suggest, but I like having everything separate.
I only have two G24 batteries at this time but really have no intention of running anything like the Micro or such. Just too much power draw in a short period of time. That's why I only got the 1000W invertor.

DOITHARD
Explorer
Explorer
mapguy wrote:
DOITHARD wrote:
Ok so I will run MW with Genset...I'm planning on purchasing a PSW inverter and will install an add ATS. But where do I conect the ATS to, shore power at existing ATS?

Depends -whole panel or just inverter driven circuit/outlets. Easiest/seamless usage would be circuits/outlets. Check the link and investigate the pdf documents.
ST1500 psw at Best Converter


Based on my restricted access to panel and easy of access to ATS, rather conect to existing ats and whole panel even though I will have limited wattage. With those givens, do I conect to shore or generator at ATS?
'12 F450 6.7L, 4x4 Crewcab Longbed Airlift 5000 Stableload Reese 48" ext Torklift Fastguns Blistein 4600 Bigwig Rear Sway Bar.
'16 Lance 1172 Loaded
'16 Haulmark Vnose 20
'12 Range Rover Sport
Honda Rincon 03'
Pol 02' TB 250
Kids: 4,8, 9 & twins 28
Patient wife