Our 2011 Big Country 5th wheel has an electric awning. As compared to the manual (Dometic) type of awning, the electric style is downright flimsy, and prone to flop around on windy days. This stems from the fact that is lacks the rigid "triangle" support of the manual design. In effect, the roller basically just floats out on the end of the arms, and can easily be "lifted" by the wind.
In a fit of ambition this last week, I have invented an easy DIY solution to the problem. It consists of two sets (one for each end of the roller) of supports. A "top support" of "rafter" which extends for the camper out to the roller, and a "lower support" or "leg" which extends from the roller down to the ground.
The "Rafter"
This assembly consists of two aluminum tubes which telescope one inside the other. The tubes I found were salvaged from a ham radio antenna project. The longer (6 foot) outer tube has an inside diameter of 7/8", and the shorter (4 foot) inner tube has an outside diameter of 3/4 inch. These telescope together nicely, not real snug, but with minimal play.
Other material needed for these rafters:
1) Two ยพโ copper caps used for capping off ยพโ copper plumbing pipe.
2) Two 5/16โ threaded rod 4.5 feet long.
3) Two aluminum โLโ brackets, 1โx1โ. (I cut mine off the end of a piece of aluminum angle bracket)
4) Two hose clamps, stolen from a garden hose repair kit.
5) Various nuts and washers.
This first photo shows the two tubes laying on the ground. The top one is a complete tube, and the bottom shows the inner section and the outer section separated.
The outer tube is just a 6-foot section of tube, with a ยผโ hole drilled all the way through, ยฝโ from one end. (You will see other holes in mine, these are holes that were already in my salvaged material).
The inner section of tubing is an assembly made as follows.
1) Drill a 5/16โ hole in the end of the copper pipe caps.
2) Drill a 5/16โ hole in one side of each of the L-brackets
3) Using 2 nuts, attach an L-bracket and a pipe cap to one end of each threaded rod.
4) Insert the other end of the threaded rod into the ยพโ aluminum tube.
5) Tap the copper cap over the end of the tube until it bottoms out.
6) At the other end of the threaded rod I put a washer between 2 nuts so the rod wouldnโt flop around in there. Slide the two sections together.
The photos below shows how that will look when finished. The end of that L-bracket will fit into the canvas slot on the awning roller.
On the trailer, at the top of the vertical channel, drill a ยผโ hole all the way through both sides of the channel, as shown below.
Using a ยผโ x 3โ pin, attach the assembly to the trailer.
Slide the lower section of the assembly out and insert the L-bracket into the awning roller into the slot at the end of the canvas.
Extend the lower section until the awning fabric is taut, then secure it at that length with a hose clamp.
Repeat at the other end of the awning.
The upright "Legs"
Again there are two assemblies, one for each end of the awning roller. These are fabricated from 1-1/2" x 1/8' alumininum angle stock from Home Depot. Each leg has two sections, and upper and a lower. For the top section I used a 3 foot length, and for the lower section I used a 6-1/2 foot length (cut from an 8 foot purchased length). All the small parts in the assembly come from that 18-inch cutoff.) I used 1/4" hardware (screws, nuts, lock washers throughout --- I suppose you could also assemble using pop-rivets.
The next photo shows the two sections for one leg.
on the bottom (long section) I made a 5" foot with 5/16" holes for metal "nail" stakes.
n the top section I fabricated a cradle with a 2-3/4โ inside width.
At the outer end of the factory "U-channel" support, about 2-inches from the end of the arm, drill a 1/4" hole completely through both sides of the arm. Place this hole as near the bottom of the "U" as practical. (Be careful --- one end (usually the front) will have 12-volt wiring for the awning motor)
Using a 1/4 x 3-inch pin, connect the cradle to the arm.
Then, using 2 small "C" clamps (I got mine at Home Depot), adjust and attach the longer lower section of the leg. The leg can slant "to taste" as shown, or be installed vertical to the ground, as desired.
In a fit of ambition this last week, I have invented an easy DIY solution to the problem. It consists of two sets (one for each end of the roller) of supports. A "top support" of "rafter" which extends for the camper out to the roller, and a "lower support" or "leg" which extends from the roller down to the ground.
The "Rafter"
This assembly consists of two aluminum tubes which telescope one inside the other. The tubes I found were salvaged from a ham radio antenna project. The longer (6 foot) outer tube has an inside diameter of 7/8", and the shorter (4 foot) inner tube has an outside diameter of 3/4 inch. These telescope together nicely, not real snug, but with minimal play.
Other material needed for these rafters:
1) Two ยพโ copper caps used for capping off ยพโ copper plumbing pipe.
2) Two 5/16โ threaded rod 4.5 feet long.
3) Two aluminum โLโ brackets, 1โx1โ. (I cut mine off the end of a piece of aluminum angle bracket)
4) Two hose clamps, stolen from a garden hose repair kit.
5) Various nuts and washers.
This first photo shows the two tubes laying on the ground. The top one is a complete tube, and the bottom shows the inner section and the outer section separated.
The outer tube is just a 6-foot section of tube, with a ยผโ hole drilled all the way through, ยฝโ from one end. (You will see other holes in mine, these are holes that were already in my salvaged material).
The inner section of tubing is an assembly made as follows.
1) Drill a 5/16โ hole in the end of the copper pipe caps.
2) Drill a 5/16โ hole in one side of each of the L-brackets
3) Using 2 nuts, attach an L-bracket and a pipe cap to one end of each threaded rod.
4) Insert the other end of the threaded rod into the ยพโ aluminum tube.
5) Tap the copper cap over the end of the tube until it bottoms out.
6) At the other end of the threaded rod I put a washer between 2 nuts so the rod wouldnโt flop around in there. Slide the two sections together.
The photos below shows how that will look when finished. The end of that L-bracket will fit into the canvas slot on the awning roller.
On the trailer, at the top of the vertical channel, drill a ยผโ hole all the way through both sides of the channel, as shown below.
Using a ยผโ x 3โ pin, attach the assembly to the trailer.
Slide the lower section of the assembly out and insert the L-bracket into the awning roller into the slot at the end of the canvas.
Extend the lower section until the awning fabric is taut, then secure it at that length with a hose clamp.
Repeat at the other end of the awning.
The upright "Legs"
Again there are two assemblies, one for each end of the awning roller. These are fabricated from 1-1/2" x 1/8' alumininum angle stock from Home Depot. Each leg has two sections, and upper and a lower. For the top section I used a 3 foot length, and for the lower section I used a 6-1/2 foot length (cut from an 8 foot purchased length). All the small parts in the assembly come from that 18-inch cutoff.) I used 1/4" hardware (screws, nuts, lock washers throughout --- I suppose you could also assemble using pop-rivets.
The next photo shows the two sections for one leg.
on the bottom (long section) I made a 5" foot with 5/16" holes for metal "nail" stakes.
n the top section I fabricated a cradle with a 2-3/4โ inside width.
At the outer end of the factory "U-channel" support, about 2-inches from the end of the arm, drill a 1/4" hole completely through both sides of the arm. Place this hole as near the bottom of the "U" as practical. (Be careful --- one end (usually the front) will have 12-volt wiring for the awning motor)
Using a 1/4 x 3-inch pin, connect the cradle to the arm.
Then, using 2 small "C" clamps (I got mine at Home Depot), adjust and attach the longer lower section of the leg. The leg can slant "to taste" as shown, or be installed vertical to the ground, as desired.
4x4van wrote:
Wow, tough crowd (SoundGuy, at least). While the Dometic 9100 power awning is certainly a nice unit, and arguably stronger than the carefree power awning, it still lacks the full triangular form factor that manual awnings have, and so would certainly fall short of that standard. Arguing that the strength/rigidity problem is simply that of brand is oversimplifying the issue.
To the OP; for someone who has a similar awning, your setup is certainly another cost effective way to increase the strength and rigidity of it (adding to the options in the link that ependydad provided) without the huge cost of replacing it with a different awning. Kudos.
Thanks!!!
