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The ultimate 5th wheel stabilizers!

MSHappyCampers
Explorer
Explorer
I believe I have discovered the ultimate home-made 5er stabilizers! I was at a Love's Travel Center and found the S-Line SL125-HT Ratcheting Cargo Bars at $19.95 each. The bar expands from 40 to 70 inches. It is very easy to convert to RV stabilizers as you will see in the pics below. Aside from the easy installation, the big advantage of these is the ability to use the ratchet to get the maximum pressure after the jacks are in place, thus making the 5er more stable. When you're ready to pull out, you simply move the ratchet to the free-moving position, releasing the pressure, and raise the jacks! See what you think.

This is what the bars look like before modification



The first step is to use a wheel grinder to grind off the head of the rivet which is securing the foot on the large end opposite the ratchet. Drill out the hole where the rivet was to 1/4 inch. One caution here, on one of my bars the rivet hole was too close to the end of the bar so I had to drill a new hole 90 degrees over. I had to use a small drill press to drill the holes in the bar as a hand drill kept grabbing as the bit went through. Below is what you have now.




Now you will need to drill two 1/4 inch holes in the foot at the other end of the bar to mount it to the landing jack. Check the hole spacing on your landing jacks to determine the spacing of these holes in the foot. The holes in my jacks were 1 inch apart, but I don't know if that's a standard. Next you make the brackets to secure the bars to the underside of the 5er. You have a choice here. You can leave the bars full length and use two brackets, crossing the bars in the middle, or you can use one bracket and cut off the bars to fit your 5er. I didn't have the shop facilities to properly cut off the bars so I took the simple way and used two brackets.
I made the brackets from a piece of U-shaped steel bracket. It should be at least 1 1/2 inches inside, as the bar is 1 inch in diameter. CAUTION..when you drill the hole through the sides for the bolt that goes through the bar, be SURE to measure from the SAME end of the bracket to mark the holes in the two sides! I learned this the hard way! Use a 1/4 inch hex head bolt with locking nut to secure the bracket to the end of the bar.Below are the finished brackets and the bracket attached to the bar.





Next, you want to determine the correct position for the mounting brackets on the underside of the 5er. First, release the ratchet on the bar and slide it to it's shortest length. Then, place the remaining foot on the bar all the way up against the inside of the landing jack, and secure temporarily with cable ties, tape, etc. You need to determine a center line between the two jacks. Measure from the inside center of one jack to a reference point towards either the front or back of the 5er. This could be the front edge below the storage doors, a cross member underneath, etc. Raise the end of the bar with the bracket up to see about where it will touch the bottom, then at that point make a mark on the bottom at the measured distance. In other words, this mark should be on a center line between the two jacks. Now, measure 1 inch from the center line forward or backward and make another mark. This will be the inside edge of the mounting bracket. One bracket should be 1 inch FORWARD of the center line, and the other bracket should be 1 inch BACKWARD from the center line. This is to give the two bars some separation where they cross in the middle as they move up and down. You may have a situation where there is nothing to mount the brackets to directly between the two landing jacks. These mounting brackets DO NOT have to be directly in line with the jacks! You can move several inches forward or backward to find a suitable surface without affecting performance. Just be sure to move both brackets forward or backward! Go ahead and bolt the brackets to the bottom. Now, remove the foot of the bar from it's temporary mounting at the top of the jack. With the ratchet in it's free moving position, move the foot down to the bottom of the jack and use the 1/4 inch hex bolts to secure the foot in the lowest possible position on the jack. The ratchet can be rotated to whatever position you prefer by a small clamp using a #2 phillips screwdriver and a 8mm socket. YOU'RE DONE! You'll leave the ratchet in the free-moving position while you lower the jacks to level the 5er. When it's level, move the ratchet handle to the center position and apply pressure. You'll find that you will probably only get one "click" of the ratchet but that's enough. The handle can now be folded to the closed position. There is a small bar under the handle that has to be pulled to move the handle through the different positions. One last and very important suggestion...print a warning label in LARGE letters and place it near your switches that control the landing jacks. If you forget to release the stabilizer ratchet before you start raising the jacks, IT AIN'T GONNA BE PRETTY! Good luck!

P.S. Adding this statement because of what someone said about the normal operation of JT stabilizers. DO NOT USE THE LANDING JACKS TO PUT PRESSURE ON THE STABILIZERS!! Lower the jacks to the position where the 5er is level, use the ratchet to put pressure on the stabilizers, and LEAVE THEM LIKE THAT! Using the jacks to put the pressure on the stabilizers might very well strip out the ratchet mechanism!







Joe & Annette

2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT
62 REPLIES 62

BarneyS
Explorer III
Explorer III
Since this thread has been resurrected from the dead and the original images no longer work, here are a couple of pictures of what is being talked about.
Just look for cargo bars at Home Depot or other big box stores.
Barney



2004 Sunnybrook Titan 30FKS TT
Hensley "Arrow" 1400# hitch (Sold)
Not towing now.
Former tow vehicles were 2016 Ram 2500 CTD, 2002 Ford F250, 7.3 PSD, 1997 Ram 2500 5.9 gas engine

qthush2003
Explorer
Explorer
I thought I was the only genius. I put a set (2) on our 2017 Flagstaff 5th wheel, it is sitting in the driveway with these crossed, side to side, and so far, for parts laying around the garage, it stopped the side to side wobble. Is this my end game solution? Probably not. But as a cost nothing experiment, yeah try it out you'll be surprised how it tightens your rig for cheap.

deleted-2
Explorer
Explorer
Great minds thinking alike!
Seen these ratchet struts at the Home Depot a while back bought 2 to try them out.
Should have realized it's already been done.

I was looking thru the Simpson Strong Tie brackets at the store in hopes of finding ready made mounts.

07PSDCREW
Explorer
Explorer
I hate to bring this back from the dead but what or where did you get the U channel to mount them to the frame?? I did see 1 1/4 square tube at lowes and thought to cut off one side to make them into a U shape. Thanks
2007 Ford F350 6.0 CC SB
Fully bulletproofed/EGR/ARP Studs
Reese 16k round tube slider hitch.
2000 Damon Hornet 2850BH 5er :B
Days camped 2011= 34 2012= 46

weekendcamper24
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks MSHappyCampers! I installed these in April and used them on four camp outs, they work perfectly, no side to side motion at all. The best part ...I got rid of that d... tripod!

scarceller
Explorer
Explorer
I did a little testing on my Sierra Q32BBS 5th wheel to determine where most of my movement is coming from. In my unit it's the rear 'side to side' that's the problem area. When I push side to side at the front of the unit it has little motion but the same test at the rear has lots of motion. Given these finding I think I'll install the stabilizers at the rear jack stands. I'm going to install 2 bars from the base of the stand to the frame to limit my side-side motion. I may decide to also install another 3rd bar going forward for back-front motion. I also like putting these on the rear manual scissor jacks since these are manual and if you forget to unlock the bars you'll discover them locked quickly without damage.

scarceller
Explorer
Explorer
currently these bars are on sale for $16.00 here:
http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-cargo-bar-96811.html

scarceller
Explorer
Explorer
Love this idea!
Has anyone done this same setup with 2 stabilizers on only one front leg? Meaning: one stabilizer for side to side motion and the other going back for back-front motion. Or maybe a 3 bar setup on 2 legs.

Thoughts?

sk734
Explorer
Explorer
JOE
Super idea!!

MSHappyCampers
Explorer
Explorer
Squints2c wrote:
I got a deal on a different type of cargo bar. The ones that are used on the insde for securing the slide-out.
(as seen here for $17)
I first moved my front jacks back about 20" and added the stabilizers going forward. Then I move my rear jack forward about 18" then added the stabilzers going up to the center of the trailer. The thing is rock solid and I dont even have the bal-X chocks between the tires when I tried it. I'm completly satisfied and all for under $120.00 including hardware. Thanks for the write-up and photos, it gave me the courage to do my own.


Those look like they are made by the same company, except with the ratched mechanism.

Also, I found out that Wal-Mart and Harbor Freight have these bars at the same price I bought them! :B
Joe & Annette

2002 Monaco Windsor 40PBT

Ron3rd
Explorer III
Explorer III
Very nice work Joe.
2016 6.7 CTD 2500 BIG HORN MEGA CAB
2013 Forest River 3001W Windjammer
Equilizer Hitch
Honda EU2000

"I have this plan to live forever; so far my plan is working"

KOTR36
Explorer
Explorer
jminyard, thank you very much for that informative post. I am very new to 5th wheeling. I just purchased a 36' King of the Road and have only hauled it home and winterized it but noticed the sway, particularly in the bedroom. I have looked at the tripods for the hitch but my engineering background could not let me see how this would stablize what I was experiencing. It appears that for $50, you solved the problem and bypassed purchasing a commercial solution for $200. I am handy enough to be able to put your post to good use on my 5er. Thanks again.

jzrvinit
Explorer
Explorer
Nice!

Housted
Explorer III
Explorer III
jminyard,
Thanks for the idea. I built two of them over the weekend. I went a little further than you reccomended. I added a 3" piece of 3/4" EMT conduit in the end of the large tube. Pop riveted in place and thickens the wall where the 1/4" bolt goes through. Other than that made just as yours. They work great!!!

Housted
2019 Forrest River Forrester 3051S 2014 Honda CRV toad.
1000 W Solar, converted to 50 amp
400 Amps of LiFePO4,3000 Watt Inverter, Refer converted with JC refrigeration unit, Sofa replaced with 2 swivel chairs, over cab bed converted to TV mount and storage