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USB 120 volt outlet

Bob_Vaughn
Explorer
Explorer
Has any one replaced one of their 120 volt outlets with a usb 120 volt outlet? If so did you just go to lowes/home depot and get one there ? If so was there any issues replacing the one in the rv?
27 REPLIES 27

tenbear
Explorer
Explorer
Here is a youtube video on how one person installed a 120v/usb combo. Replacing a 120v outlet is basically the same.
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4x4van
Explorer III
Explorer III
I just installed this in my MH.

Nice & easy; just tap into a 12v source, 12VDC is always on/available. I recommend putting it inside a cabinet, since the blue power LED is fairly bright (or you could run an inline rocker switch to turn it on/off).
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Harvey51
Explorer
Explorer
I bought two in a package at Costco. I installed one in our house. Quite a job due to the very large size of the thing, just barely fitting into the electrical outlet box. Connection screw for only one black, one white and one safety ground wire, so Marettes and pigtails were required to hook it up in the middle of a multi outlet run, leaving barely enough depth for the big outlet. I doubt if I will install the second one - certainly not in the RV. Green LED stays on all the time.

They say a GFCI uses $3 of electricity a year. I bet this thing does as well. It adds up, especially if you have a couple of arc interrupter breakers using $5 a year as well.
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Thunder_Mountai
Explorer II
Explorer II
westend wrote:
n7bsn wrote:
A replacement style USB/Outlet link
Yup. that's a nice one. Just a word, though, that a residential receptacle will need to be mounted in a box. Many RV's are wired without gang boxes.


That is the one I installed in my MH. Had to do some cutting to add a box. Nice addition. Did away with some clutter and preserved the outlets.
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beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
ICamel wrote:
Found this neat little wall plate adapter at Wally World yesterday. Only downside is that one USB port is listed as for Apple "I" products and the other listed for Android products.
http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?slg=en&scy=us&ctn=SPP3038A/17


Apple products like a 2 amp charge whereas Androids charge at 1 amp, however they both are 5 volts.

An Apple product will still charge at 1 amp but will charge slower. The Android can also charge from either except the phone battery may get hot on 2 amps.
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ICamel
Explorer
Explorer
Found this neat little wall plate adapter at Wally World yesterday. Only downside is that one USB port is listed as for Apple "I" products and the other listed for Android products.
http://www.p4c.philips.com/cgi-bin/dcbint/cpindex.pl?slg=en&scy=us&ctn=SPP3038A/17
ICamel

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AH64ID
Explorer
Explorer
I installed one of these where my tv plug was.

USB Outlet

I moved the TV outlet to behind the stereo, never understood why TV power/cable had to be exposed, and then put the usb/120 plug in.

That plug will shut off the output when the device is charged, and has an indicator light. So far it's been a worthy upgrade.
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beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
Bob Vaughn wrote:
I picked up the receptacle yesterday and after removing the receptacle from the rv wall I swapped the mounting tabs from the rv one to the new one and it worked just fine.


I don't know what mounting tabs you mean but I will reiterate what others have said.

When replacing an RV/mobile home receptacle with a residential/commercial receptacle, the new one must be in an electrical box. This is a safety code requirement.
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Bob_Vaughn
Explorer
Explorer
I picked up the receptacle yesterday and after removing the receptacle from the rv wall I swapped the mounting tabs from the rv one to the new one and it worked just fine......

beemerphile1
Explorer
Explorer
I prefer to plug an adapter into a 12vdc receptacle. I always have 12vdc but only sometimes have 120vac.
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GordonThree
Explorer
Explorer
christopherglenn wrote:
That one has 2 "apple" ports and 2 " not apple" ports. your guess is as good as mine as to the difference.
I ended up getting a pile of these for the TV and cars... 2.1 amps per port, 3 ports, plug anything anywhere.


The difference is how the data pins are loaded (resistance). Some Apple and Android devices look at the loading on the data pins to determine how much amperage the charger can supply (or if it's even compatible)
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ronfisherman
Moderator
Moderator
I installed a couple of these Surge protector/120 volt/USB adapters. They also make them with front 120 volt plugs.
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Golden_HVAC
Explorer
Explorer
I have a cell phone that says "Unplug adapter to save energy". If you have a wall mounted USB port, then you will have no way to unplug it without shutting off the circuit breaker, or in the case of a switched receptacle, then shut off the switch to keep the USB plug from drawing power all night - when not in use.

A better way is to just have several USB adapters. Then plug that in when you want to charge or run something with a USB port. Unplug when not needed.

With a RV, have you ever removed one of the receptacles? Most are not like a house, with a separate box and receptacle with wire connections inside the box, with a separate cover. Rv's typically use a RV style that is all in one, that does not have a separate box or cover. So I can not see a "Typical" home receptacle ever fitting in the RV opening (that normally will not have a box to contain the electrical power).

I have installed a new box and new receptacle in a RV, with a cover. It takes about 4-5 minutes to install one, compared to about 45 seconds for a RV style receptacle.

Good luck!

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christopherglen
Explorer
Explorer
That one has 2 "apple" ports and 2 " not apple" ports. your guess is as good as mine as to the difference.
I ended up getting a pile of these for the TV and cars... 2.1 amps per port, 3 ports, plug anything anywhere.
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