Vinyl plank flooring - snap lock with history of success?

[dcason]

Has anyone done a snap lock (or glue strip) vinyl plank flooring with success? Talking about at least a year of success with temperature changes? What brand? Did you research brands that have wide temperature range? I am wanting to replace our nasty carpet with plank flooring (they should have just put lino down in our 24 foot class c!) and not carpet AND lino.

We realize there must be a perimeter expansion gap, the RIGHT Vinyl/waterproof and wide temperature tolerance. NO slides to deal with either just weird angles/cuts lots of them.
I would like learn from your experience:B
Donna/David (who will do the actual work)

[cmarq]

I did our 2003 Pace Arrow motor home with self stick vinyl plank from Lowes very easy to work with and looks excellent. It has been through two summers and two winters in CT with no problems i had to remove carpet and vinyl. the plywood sub floor needs to be clean and a primer put on hardest job is prep getting all the staples out and making sure the plywood was smooth. Laying the planks was 1 1/2 days we took our time.

[jfkmk]

I just finished installing vinyl plank flooring in my basement (as in I finished it this afternoon - still need to install the 1/4 round). It has a pretty decent temperature range, but not what an rvwould see, at least not around here. It is rated to about 35F. Too bad to, it would make a great rv floor.

[dcason]

Thanks Jplant4....NICE! One thing I've read is that if you can get flooring that is rated for wide temperature ranges you should be okay...so I will have to see what I can find. Ours would not be climate controlled and yes, I read you on the floating floor with ZERO nailing.

Thanks!
Donna

[jplante4]

Moved from General RVing

[jplante4]

Allure with Grip Strip from HoD. About $300 of material. Not recommended for installation in a non-climate controlled environment, but it's been through all 4 seasons twice now in the northeast now and it looks the same as these pics.







Leave a 1/4 inch gap around the edges and make sure NOTHING gets fastened through the vinyl into the subfloor. This means cutting around seats and sofa brackets etc and double stick taping the edge trim to the vinyl. The floor has to move as a unit, else it will buckle.

[dcason]

Steve,
Actually NO I am not sure there there isn't vinyl sheet under it...would be NICE it if was and would just keep that. The rug is curved and no staples are visible so maybe a tack board and rolled over? I guess the only way to know that is do a small section and see.
Thanks for THAT!
Donna

[William_Willard]

I have installed that flooring in two RV`s -- As far as I know they have worked out OK -- I did them for customers of mine & have not heard back with any complaints -- It`s time consuming in a RV -- Small working space & the trim takes as much time as the floor it`s self -- Just leave 1/4 inch or so from the walls & don`t face nail any -- Bill Willard

[TenOC]

I installed in a house with uneven floor. Had to have it removed because after a few days the long seam opened -- short seam did well. In a RV with large change in temp may be a problem I install THIN nail down engineered wood in my TT. Used short "brads" to hold down the floor. Yes the slides marked the floor (even after raising the slides as high as I could) at two places but much better than carpet.

[subcamper]

Are you sure there isn't sheet vinyl under the rug also?

I removed a bunch of carpet from our Rockwood and the whole floor had sheet vinyl.

The carpet was stapled down along the edges and rolled/stapled at exposed edges, so after removing the staples it still looked good. You don't even see the staple holes.

Steve