2013 Ram 2500 6.7- pull a Montana High Country 293RK?

[bmpire]

Hello all!

Im hoping I didn't make the mistake of purchasing a truck too small.
I purchased new a 2013 Ram 2500 MegaCab Laramie 4x4 6.7 diesel with all the options and looking at ordering a 2015 Montana High Country 293RK.

I really don't want to take the hit and trade in on a 3500 SRW, and then pay sales tax on top of the trade in loss. Would leveling out with air bags be enough? Im not good with all these towing numbers, would love some help. Thanks guys!

293RK Montana High Country Specs:

9560 shipping weight
2915 carrying capacity
2075 Hitch Weight

Ram 2500 specs from my door sticker:

2015 LB : Combined weight of cargo and occupants - would like to add air bag or helper springs to level out the ride when towing.

GAWR Front: 5500 LB
GAWR Rear: 6200 LB
GVWR 10000 LB


Thanks again!

[skar1025]

I have a 2014 ram 2500 long bed with a 6.7 and tow a 2015 montana high country 343rl and have no problems at all. As far as stopping with the exhaust brake on it just about stops itself.

[JIMNLIN]

op asks wrote:
Hello all!

Im hoping I didn't make the mistake of purchasing a truck too small.
I purchased new a 2013 Ram 2500 MegaCab Laramie 4x4 6.7 diesel with all the options and looking at ordering a 2015 Montana High Country 293RK.
I really don't want to take the hit and trade in on a 3500 SRW, and then pay sales tax on top of the trade in loss. Would leveling out with air bags be enough? Im not good with all these towing numbers, would love some help. Thanks guys!

Great combo.
Trucks out here in the real world don't carry weight determined by a payload sticker or the mfg GVWR but are limited by axle/tire ratings.
The truck sure won't have any issues pulling a 12k trailer. Nor will it have any issues with carrying that trailers hitch weight.
Don't loose money on moving up to a 3500 SRW. All you get for much more money in your case is a higher rated rear spring pack. The rest of the 2500/3500 SRW trucks pertinent specs are the same.

Your 2500 truck has a 6200 RAWR which will carry all the trailers pin weight. Many 2500 Mega cab trucks rear axle can weigh in the 2900-3000 lb range which leaves the truck with approx 3200-3300 lb for a payload.

[The_Mad_Norsky]

:h

Well, Eng208 said a lot there, but failed completely to state the over-riding issue.

Which is, do two tires have the load capacity to carry the planned fifth wheel?????

If so, then by all means get a single rear wheel vehicle. There is absolutely no need for a dually for each and every fifth wheel manufactured.

But, please realize that your carrying capacity for single rear wheel pickups is often down to just ONE tire. And perhaps just a small part of the second tire.

That is because, and this is as simple as can be stated, those two rear tires are already carrying the weight of the pickup itself.

So with a 60/40 split on weight (front to back) an 8,000 pound pickup is already carrying 3,200 pounds on the rear tires. EMPTY!

No passengers, no hitch, no cargo.

So with most 17 or even 18 inch tires, probably 20's too, you are using up almost ALL the capacity of one tire just sitting still.

So depending on tire capacity, one would have a range of from about 3,195 pounds left over for carrying a fifth wheel up to around 3,600 pounds for other tires (17's, 18's, 20's).

So if the fifth wheel hitch weight, loaded stays under those numbers, by all means stay with the single rear wheel vehicle.

Like I said, you don't need the dually for every application.

But if you do the math, and find out your tire capacity will be lacking, then a dually is truly the only choice one can make. And the math is simple, right in front of all of us on the manufacturers advertising for any given unit.

Just divide the advertised hitch weight by the unloaded weight of any fifth wheel to give you a percentage. Say a 12,350 pound fifth wheel has an advertised hitch weight of 2,300 pounds. That is a hitch weight percentage of 18.6 percent.

This same fifth wheel shows a gross weight rating of say 16,500 pounds. So 16,500 times 18.6 percent equals 3,069 pounds.

That 3,069 pounds would be the max hitch weight generated by that trailer, something you as the owner would be in control of by how one loads the trailer also.

To me, it does appear my hypothetical fifth wheel would be well within the range of heavy rated rear tires, single rear tires. Those with a load range in the 3,600 pound range for each tire.

I run dually, but not because of my fifth wheel. Weight wise, I could get by with single rear tires. But I also carry a truck camper that weighs in at 4,500 pounds, and for that, I do need the dual tires in back. At about 2,900 pounds (dual configuration tires each) I have about 8,400 pounds of tire capacity remaining to carry that heavy truck camper. Mind you, then one has to start looking at axle capacity also, but for the topic at hand, does not need to be examined in detail.

[Greene728]

Eng208 wrote:
So much misinformation on this. I can't stand the perpetual "Get a 3500 DRW for a fifth wheel or you are unsafe and will kill someone." Well, towing is dangerous. Pulling 20K plus pounds down the road at 60MPH is dangerous. Driving a 8K pound 4x4 is dangerous. We live in a dangerous world where you can be shot for just having a uniform on that looks "offensive" to someone. I don't think driving a bigger vehicle makes anyone "safer". If anything, it adds to the false sense of protection and encourages less safe behavior. Same with all of the electronic safety devices we have now. Given the same circumstances, sure, they work to make things safer. The problem is when we move the level of our activity up to a more unsafe level that takes the new safety devices to operate at, we create new problems.
As far as the OP question, here is my take on it. I too bought a 13 2500 4x4 CTD except I got a CCLB model. I did this after extensive research and a close friend buying a 13 3500 SRW CCSB 4x4 only a month earlier. His truck rides very rough even though it is a Big Horn. The SB and 3500 are just a poor match for a comfortable ride unloaded to me. Now, this 13 had the new Ram frame and Aisin transmission, along with 385HP and 850FT/Lbs TQ. If I was towing a goose neck for hire, I would want a 3500, but would probably go with a DRW in that case. Truth is, I'm not. I drive my truck in town, on errands and use as a family vehicle much of the time. I also tow my fifth wheel or my 7k lb boat with it. The LB 2500 rides so smooth, we forget we are in a HD truck. When towing, it still rides super smooth and pulls with ease. Mine has the 68RFE tranny and 370HP, 800 FT/lb "rating". I could elaborate on this but that would take more time.

The 2500 classification (Class 2) is held to a <10001 GVWR. Doesn't matter what suspension, axle, tires or whatever is on the truck, that is all it can be. The 3500 can be up to 14000 to make that class 3. This is where Ford got into it with Ram about the 450 vs 3500 this year. The 13 2500 is the same suspension as the 12 and previous 3500 SRW models. Same part numbers, I have checked personally. The 13 2500 also has the upgraded cooling, transmission, and engine performance for 13. It has the carryover frame which has never been a problem. Goducks10 is correct on this. I think as the 2500 class 2 trucks get heavier, we will see more and more 3500 SRW being sold. This is the sole reason the payload rating on the MegaCab 2500s is so low. It has to figure in the weight of the truck plus the payload and cannot exceed 10000lbs. The only available gear ratio for 2013+ SRW Cummins powered trucks is the 3.42. Doesn't matter what you want, as long as it is a 3.42 you will be satisfied. Have to get DRW to get any other option with the diesel.

I hope this makes some sense. I know there are those on this board that will refuse to acknowledge this, but everything I have put into type can be works cited as documented. Now, some states abide strictly by the stickers, and if you live in an area like that, good luck.
Another thing, as far as those discussing the braking issues when pulling a trailer and needing a bigger truck to stop a trailer, this really shows a person's ignorance, or maybe even stupidity. If you ever think any 8000lb truck is going to stop a 12-14K lb trailer going 60 mph down the road, there is no information available to bring you up to a level of competency. The truck should not have to supply much if any braking to a trailer by itself. The trailer brakes should be set to stop adequately and kept in good working condition. I love my brake controller that came with my 13. It works so well I never get the herky jerkies I used to get with my Voyager. I also don't have to constantly adjust it.
Tow on, and enjoy the ride.

Bravo!!!

[IH_Fan]

Eng208 wrote:
So much misinformation on this. I can't stand the perpetual "Get a 3500 DRW for a fifth wheel or you are unsafe and will kill someone." Well, towing is dangerous. Pulling 20K plus pounds down the road at 60MPH is dangerous. Driving a 8K pound 4x4 is dangerous. We live in a dangerous world where you can be shot for just having a uniform on that looks "offensive" to someone. I don't think driving a bigger vehicle makes anyone "safer". If anything, it adds to the false sense of protection and encourages less safe behavior. Same with all of the electronic safety devices we have now. Given the same circumstances, sure, they work to make things safer. The problem is when we move the level of our activity up to a more unsafe level that takes the new safety devices to operate at, we create new problems.
As far as the OP question, here is my take on it. I too bought a 13 2500 4x4 CTD except I got a CCLB model. I did this after extensive research and a close friend buying a 13 3500 SRW CCSB 4x4 only a month earlier. His truck rides very rough even though it is a Big Horn. The SB and 3500 are just a poor match for a comfortable ride unloaded to me. Now, this 13 had the new Ram frame and Aisin transmission, along with 385HP and 850FT/Lbs TQ. If I was towing a goose neck for hire, I would want a 3500, but would probably go with a DRW in that case. Truth is, I'm not. I drive my truck in town, on errands and use as a family vehicle much of the time. I also tow my fifth wheel or my 7k lb boat with it. The LB 2500 rides so smooth, we forget we are in a HD truck. When towing, it still rides super smooth and pulls with ease. Mine has the 68RFE tranny and 370HP, 800 FT/lb "rating". I could elaborate on this but that would take more time.

The 2500 classification (Class 2) is held to a <10001 GVWR. Doesn't matter what suspension, axle, tires or whatever is on the truck, that is all it can be. The 3500 can be up to 14000 to make that class 3. This is where Ford got into it with Ram about the 450 vs 3500 this year. The 13 2500 is the same suspension as the 12 and previous 3500 SRW models. Same part numbers, I have checked personally. The 13 2500 also has the upgraded cooling, transmission, and engine performance for 13. It has the carryover frame which has never been a problem. Goducks10 is correct on this. I think as the 2500 class 2 trucks get heavier, we will see more and more 3500 SRW being sold. This is the sole reason the payload rating on the MegaCab 2500s is so low. It has to figure in the weight of the truck plus the payload and cannot exceed 10000lbs. The only available gear ratio for 2013+ SRW Cummins powered trucks is the 3.42. Doesn't matter what you want, as long as it is a 3.42 you will be satisfied. Have to get DRW to get any other option with the diesel.

I hope this makes some sense. I know there are those on this board that will refuse to acknowledge this, but everything I have put into type can be works cited as documented. Now, some states abide strictly by the stickers, and if you live in an area like that, good luck.
Another thing, as far as those discussing the braking issues when pulling a trailer and needing a bigger truck to stop a trailer, this really shows a person's ignorance, or maybe even stupidity. If you ever think any 8000lb truck is going to stop a 12-14K lb trailer going 60 mph down the road, there is no information available to bring you up to a level of competency. The truck should not have to supply much if any braking to a trailer by itself. The trailer brakes should be set to stop adequately and kept in good working condition. I love my brake controller that came with my 13. It works so well I never get the herky jerkies I used to get with my Voyager. I also don't have to constantly adjust it.
Tow on, and enjoy the ride.

Well said and well put - thank you for posting this!!

[Eng208]

So much misinformation on this. I can't stand the perpetual "Get a 3500 DRW for a fifth wheel or you are unsafe and will kill someone." Well, towing is dangerous. Pulling 20K plus pounds down the road at 60MPH is dangerous. Driving a 8K pound 4x4 is dangerous. We live in a dangerous world where you can be shot for just having a uniform on that looks "offensive" to someone. I don't think driving a bigger vehicle makes anyone "safer". If anything, it adds to the false sense of protection and encourages less safe behavior. Same with all of the electronic safety devices we have now. Given the same circumstances, sure, they work to make things safer. The problem is when we move the level of our activity up to a more unsafe level that takes the new safety devices to operate at, we create new problems.
As far as the OP question, here is my take on it. I too bought a 13 2500 4x4 CTD except I got a CCLB model. I did this after extensive research and a close friend buying a 13 3500 SRW CCSB 4x4 only a month earlier. His truck rides very rough even though it is a Big Horn. The SB and 3500 are just a poor match for a comfortable ride unloaded to me. Now, this 13 had the new Ram frame and Aisin transmission, along with 385HP and 850FT/Lbs TQ. If I was towing a goose neck for hire, I would want a 3500, but would probably go with a DRW in that case. Truth is, I'm not. I drive my truck in town, on errands and use as a family vehicle much of the time. I also tow my fifth wheel or my 7k lb boat with it. The LB 2500 rides so smooth, we forget we are in a HD truck. When towing, it still rides super smooth and pulls with ease. Mine has the 68RFE tranny and 370HP, 800 FT/lb "rating". I could elaborate on this but that would take more time.

The 2500 classification (Class 2) is held to a <10001 GVWR. Doesn't matter what suspension, axle, tires or whatever is on the truck, that is all it can be. The 3500 can be up to 14000 to make that class 3. This is where Ford got into it with Ram about the 450 vs 3500 this year. The 13 2500 is the same suspension as the 12 and previous 3500 SRW models. Same part numbers, I have checked personally. The 13 2500 also has the upgraded cooling, transmission, and engine performance for 13. It has the carryover frame which has never been a problem. Goducks10 is correct on this. I think as the 2500 class 2 trucks get heavier, we will see more and more 3500 SRW being sold. This is the sole reason the payload rating on the MegaCab 2500s is so low. It has to figure in the weight of the truck plus the payload and cannot exceed 10000lbs. The only available gear ratio for 2013+ SRW Cummins powered trucks is the 3.42. Doesn't matter what you want, as long as it is a 3.42 you will be satisfied. Have to get DRW to get any other option with the diesel.

I hope this makes some sense. I know there are those on this board that will refuse to acknowledge this, but everything I have put into type can be works cited as documented. Now, some states abide strictly by the stickers, and if you live in an area like that, good luck.
Another thing, as far as those discussing the braking issues when pulling a trailer and needing a bigger truck to stop a trailer, this really shows a person's ignorance, or maybe even stupidity. If you ever think any 8000lb truck is going to stop a 12-14K lb trailer going 60 mph down the road, there is no information available to bring you up to a level of competency. The truck should not have to supply much if any braking to a trailer by itself. The trailer brakes should be set to stop adequately and kept in good working condition. I love my brake controller that came with my 13. It works so well I never get the herky jerkies I used to get with my Voyager. I also don't have to constantly adjust it.
Tow on, and enjoy the ride.

[gtsum]

Water-Bug wrote:
I tow a 2013 Montana Highcountry 32xxRL with my 2012 RAM 2500 6.7 Cummins with no problem. It tows level without any modifications. The only difference in a RAM 2500 and a 3500 is the rear springs. All the running gear is the same and the Cummins paired up with a 6 speed auto trans will do just fine with a 3.73 rear end.

The frame is different on 2013...in 2014 the 2500's got the new 50k psi cold treated steel frame that the 3500's have.

OP - you are going to be well over the payload capacity of the truck. FWIW, your 2500 megacab has 2017lbs payload...my 2014 3500 Megacab has 4076lbs and is the sole reason I ordered a 3500 vs a 2500 megacab

[rhagfo]

:S
Double Post!

[rhagfo]

MM49 wrote:
This a joke, right?
MM49

The OP's I sure hope so, likely read too many post stating that you need a 3500/350 to pull/carry a 12,000# GVWR 5er! :S

The carry with the newer 18" tires, and the power of that 6.7 with 365 HP, my 5.9 works a bit to maintain 55 to 60 up a 6% grade, but it does it with less than 280 HP!

[MM49]

This a joke, right?
MM49

[rhagfo]

lazydays wrote:

powderman426 wrote:
I would tow it, and mine is an older 5.9. I see a lot of posts about stopping it. I don't know about anyone else, but my trailer came with brakes. Also the brakes on the trailer will.not only stop it, but they will stop it and the truck also. Jmo

Finally, someone with a brain. I drove over 60 miles once just using my trailer brakes due to a broken brake line. I would tow that combination all day long.

Powderman, I Do carry more 5er than you with an older than your truck 5.9 and have zero issues.

Lazydays, would also carry your and still not need to do any suspension adds to do it.

I have no problems Carrying or Pulling our 12,360# GVWR 5er with my 2001 Ram 2500 with Camper Package on the stock suspension.

[lazydays]

powderman426 wrote:
I would tow it, and mine is an older 5.9. I see a lot of posts about stopping it. I don't know about anyone else, but my trailer came with brakes. Also the brakes on the trailer will.not only stop it, but they will stop it and the truck also. Jmo

Finally, someone with a brain. I drove over 60 miles once just using my trailer brakes due to a broken brake line. I would tow that combination all day long.

[The_Mad_Norsky]

bmpire:

hope you are getting good information from the various posters.

One item to comment about.

And many have said it.

PULLING a fifth wheel. Irrelevant. You can pull a fifth wheel with a Toyota, look what it did for the Space Shuttle.

CARRYING the hitch weight of the fifth wheel, along with the weight of the truck, cargo and passengers in said vehicle IS the most important factor.

So ask if your planned truck can carry any particular fifth wheel.

Now back to our regular programming :B

[RBabb]

I've got a SRW and a drw. The drw is much more stable but I wonder if a lot of peoples opinions are based on new truck fever. I use the SRW most of the time and only the drw if I've got something heavy to pull. For the camper discussed here I'd use the srw