Am I in the safe range, should build it up? Need help!

[Chuck___]

First off:

I have been trying to know exactly what my truck can safely tow and what is the maximum 5th wheel weight I can "safety handle".
My neighbor who is a professional truck driver and his mechanic has told me that to just drive sensibility, within the speed limit, weather conditions and so on. The mechanic told me he has a truck like mine and has tow up to 18,000 lbs tailors. The only problem he had is with the power up hills. I get so many different figures and stories form charts specification sheet, VIN number specs and people I don't know what and who to believe.
I need to know numbers and if I am calcuating right. and any other advice.

1999 Dodge Cub/Quad cab 2-wheel drive SLT Automatic Tran, Turbo diesel, 24V with 160,000 miles:
My tires at 10 ply 17 inch, rated for 3,000 for each tire. Yes, I witched the tires because I found a new set of rims and tires cheep E rated 10 ply. Still have the old 16" rims.
VIN #: 1B7KC2360XJ636854


On the drivers door: GVWR= 8,800
Front GAWR= 4,410
Rear GAWR= 6,084

Weight at Scale:Front Axle= 3,880
Rear Axle= 2,780
Total weight= 6,540

Pin weight calculation? 2 people weight: 350 lbs
Hitch weight: 250 lbs.
Food and extra inside truck: 50 lbs.
Total : 650 lbs.

Weighted truck:6,540 plus extra weight Total: 6,540+650= 7,190 lbs.

Pin Weight: GVWR 8,800-7,190= 1,610 lbs.

On page 148 of my owner's manual: Axle Ratio: 4.10 I have a 3.54 rear end?

GCWR= 18,000 and a Max Trailer Wt. of 12,000 But I have 3.54 gears?
Do I cut it down to GCWR= 16,000 and the Max Trailer Wt.= 10,200 ????

So, using cancellations, maximum 5th wheel weight: GCWR=18,000- truck 7,190 lbs = 10,810 lbs. 5th wheel?????

20% of 10,810 is 2,162 lbs. looks like I am over my pin weight?

I don't know if I am reading to manual right or if my calculations are right.


I been told if I put a couple of thousand dollars into the truck it be will worth it; thinking up to $5,000 or so. The truck is still good shape. Should I install air bags, extra leaf springs, exhaust brake, bigger tires and disc brakes for the rear end? Is it worth it for a 1999 3/4 ton truck with only 160,000 miles.

I had the transmission rebuilt; asking to have it built extra heavy duty with shift kit and cooler. Also had ball joints and bearing done for the new front end, new rotters, drums and brakes this year.

I hate to shell out $65,000 to $75,000 or more of a new/newer 350 if not needed.

Been looking at 2005 to 2008 Alpenlite and or used Arctic Fox (Northwood) 5th wheels. Hoping the weight wouldn't be too much.


Help, I need it. Going crazy!

Charles in Salem, Oregon

[BarneyS]

Double post. See any new replies to the question here.

[Shrek51]

I have a 2002 F250 and had same problem up hill. Bought a tuner from Edge Products, it is easy to install, it changes the settings to customize shifting and pressures in the trans.

Click on link and search for your truck and follow instructions. Any other questions you can call and ask.


http://www.edgejuiceproducts.com/

[Me_Again]

FishOnOne wrote:

Me Again wrote:
Another thing to check out, is the Cummins a 53 block in your 1999 RAM. Source Automotive will show you where to look for that. If it is, then towing heavy may cause it to crack along the block below the exhaust manifold.

Chris

Most of those blocks cracked without towing a load so I doubt he has one of these defective blocks after 160k miles.

There is no guaranty of that! But again you know much more than anyone else about RAM trucks, as you had one for a year or two. That being an used one that you bought that had been ridden hard and put away wet.

You might want to read this:

http://www.cumminshub.com/cummins-53-block.html

[FishOnOne]

Me Again wrote:
Another thing to check out, is the Cummins a 53 block in your 1999 RAM. Source Automotive will show you where to look for that. If it is, then towing heavy may cause it to crack along the block below the exhaust manifold.

Chris

Most of those blocks cracked without towing a load so I doubt he has one of these defective blocks after 160k miles.

[Me_Again]

Another thing to check out, is the Cummins a 53 block in your 1999 RAM. Source Automotive will show you where to look for that. If it is, then towing heavy may cause it to crack along the block below the exhaust manifold.

Chris

[Greene728]

IdaD wrote:

Chuck .. wrote:
I hate to shell out $65,000 to $75,000 or more of a new/newer 350 if not needed.

You'd have to work pretty hard to spend that much. A brand new gasser will run you in the lower to mid $30k range, and a brand new diesel will run in the upper $30k to lower $40k range. That's for a fairly basic but not bare bones crew cab model with 4wd, pick your brand. You can go up from there obviously, but you don't need to check every option box.

I agree completely with IdaD!
There are many, many more capable options out there for far less money you are talking about (unless you require new with every bell and whistle known to man). Possibly even some one ton gas rigs. You have a fine truck. But I just don't know that I'd spend the kind of money you are looking at on a truck of that age. Personal preference/opinion I know. But even after the mods are done, it doesn't hide the age of the vehicle or really make it appreciate much in value. Matter of fact, most in the used market for a truck like yours would prefer it to be stock rather than heavily modded. At least that's been what I've seen. Good luck with your decision!

[Me_Again]

Both the trailers you are talking about come in on the heavy side. Setting up the truck to tow heavy in only part of the issue. You have to also have to make it capable of slowly down and stopping it. Think exhaust brake! So you are looking at almost 8-10K to make into a viable tow truck for trailers in the 12K range.

Been there and have the t-shirt, hat, merit badge etc for building my 2001.5 RAM to tow a 12,400 trailer.

1. Gauges
2. Exhaust
3. Exhaust brake
4. Injectors
5. Turbo
6. Transmission/torque converter (I did it twice in eleven years)
7. Controller to lock torque converter

Addition for you.
8. Wide rims and LT265/75R16E tires rated at 3415.
9. Depending on rear suspension - Air Bags.
10. 5th wheel hitch.

The order you take in doing the up grades has to be carefully layed out or you repeat things again with a different componiet.

Jump in the truck and go spend some time talking with these guys.

http://sourceautomotive.biz/

Chris

[Dave_Jeanette]

We picked up a brand new 2015 F350(CC DRW 4WD Diesel) last year for 45k. It is an XL model with some options. It does what we need pulling our 5th with ease and is very comfortable.

[IdaD]

Chuck .. wrote:
I hate to shell out $65,000 to $75,000 or more of a new/newer 350 if not needed.

You'd have to work pretty hard to spend that much. A brand new gasser will run you in the lower to mid $30k range, and a brand new diesel will run in the upper $30k to lower $40k range. That's for a fairly basic but not bare bones crew cab model with 4wd, pick your brand. You can go up from there obviously, but you don't need to check every option box.

[JIMNLIN]

One of my previous trucks was a 2500 '01 Dodge/Cummins with the 235/460 engine....3.54 axle ratio....47RE tranny.....2wd.
The 3.54 geared truck had a 9800 lb max GN/5th wheel tow rating. Reason was the very weak 47re stock transmission. The 47re is the biggest weak link but it can be made bullet proof for heavy towing with the right aftermarket parts and the right builders.

The Cummins can be programmed for more power if needed once the tranny has been upgraded for this type performance.

Glad you weighed the trucks axles. The front axle won't change much if any as the rear axle carries all the load in the bed. Simply subtract the 2780 lb rear weight from 6084 = 3304 lbs for a payload.
The later models of the 2nd gen Dodge/Cummins is one of the more popular trucks for upgrading for heavier towing/hauling duties and it doesn't cost a arm and both legs.

[rhagfo]

To the OP,
17" wheel look nice, BUT the 17' tires have a lower weight rating than 16" or 18'. your 17" tire likely have a weight rating of 3,195, the 16' you took off either had 3,042, or if the 265's 3,415#.

I will say, yes I have a 2001 and pull CARRY a 12,360 GVWR 5er at about 11,200# or so.
Yes, well over the GVWR, well UNDER axle ratings, no need for bags, just the stock Camper Special spring package. Go to the Chrysler sight and get a build sheet for you truck.

I see my big advantage over your rig DS Power Puck +50 HP and about 140# torque. I also have a 5 speed Manual trans.

NOT a recommendation, just what works for me, YES Pacbrake exhaust brake!!!!

[RustyJC]

path1 wrote:
We have an 2001 but tow a trailer..so not as much weight on truck as you. And I think you are 12 valve and mechanical. Not 24 valve?

A 1999 truck is a 24 valve 5.9L Cummins. The change was made on January 1, 1998 - late 1998 24 valve trucks are known as 98.5 trucks.

And congratulations - your truck is the lightest Cummins-powered 2nd generation Ram I've ever seen. My 2002 3500 ETH/DEE (Cummins HO/6-speed NV5600) scaled at 7820 lbs with hitch, toolbox, occupants and a full tank of fuel.

Rusty

[path1]

Ya, go out and spend $65 to 70 K on a pick up. Makes since to me. As long as your money:)

We have an 2001 but tow a trailer..so not as much weight on truck as you. And I think you are 12 valve and mechanical. Not 24 valve?

Little paper glued in glove box on inside of cover should say what axle ratio you have. Exhaust brake biggest waste of $$$ until you start going down hill. Nothing more wife like to hear is the noise of the brake when going down hill. Think I had to use foot brake only couple times between Seattle to Yuma because of terrain. Braking for traffic reasons is different story. My ABS light kept going off with OEM brake pads. Got some NAPA big buck style and no more problems with ABS light when brakes got warmed up in LA traffic. I have air bags, for couple reasons, headlights used to come up a bit at night and better ride with them. But you have 5th wheel so maybe even more so. I usually talk with 2nd gen owners, especially when towing hauling an RV. Many have 200-300 thousand miles.

I installed airbags and found a real time sucker to install. Got them from Geno's garage (dodge part place) They look like a no brainer to install but Before you buy airbags for yours make sure there you have room. Some 5th wheels hitches use the same area for brackets that airbags use. So make sure before you buy. Some people make custom brackets air bag brackets that can be use the same area as 5th wheel brackets. No big deal but try to figuire out first or have a good welder that can fab something up. So when buying air bags might not be what is cheapest but what will fit. Both brackets of 5th wheel and air bag competing for room right over axle tube.

Of course you would be better with a 1 ton, but many pull with what you have. As far as being slow up hills. I know I'm not going to be the first one up a hill but have made it to top many, many times. You can do all kinds of stuff to the motor to get more horse power. But for the price of extra horse power and then other problems might be set in motion by big horse power, so I keep mine pretty well stock. A whooping 235 horse power does me alright.

I follow the heavy duty (or severe) maint schedule. I tow about 1/2 the miles on truck is towing and Dodge known for cheap trans. So I adjust trans bands every 20,000 miles verses 30,000 miles. Takes more time to drain fluid than to tighten bands. Next spring we are getting a "stage 1" trans built specially for towing.

Last year heading south along I-5 corridor, we ran across a 1st gen with 415,000 miles on it.

lots of good reading at https://www.genosgarage.com/tech_info

And a pretty good outfit (as far as I could tell) closer to you is Oregon fuel injection. I bought a portable mechanical pressure gauge from them. http://oregonfuelinjection.com/ and they have some good reading also.

Look up your VIN if you want... http://dodgeforum.com/forum/vindecoder.php

Stock tires are 16 inch I believe. If you have 17 inch tires versus 16 inch somebody put them on and taller tires will effect ratios somewhat. One inch doesn't sound like much but it will effect you IMO.

[Old-Biscuit]

""So, using cancellations, maximum 5th wheel weight: GCWR=18,000- truck 7,190 lbs = 10,810 lbs. 5th wheel?????

20% of 10,810 is 2,162 lbs. looks like I am over my pin weight? """

YES you will be over...
Not just pin weight (payload) but also trucks GVWR (8800#) 7190 + 2162 = 9352
BUT..you will most likely be under RAWR/Rear Tire Load Rating

Stay under GCWR, RAWR, Rear Tire Load Ratings (going over GVWR isn't all that bad)
SO a 10K GVWR 5th wheel would be doable

ANY upgrades/mods will make for better towing but will NOT change the mfg. numbers/ratings