Andersen Hitch

[Wingnusa]

Anyone out there have one of these? I could use some feedback on the Ultimate. I especially want to know how things ride inside the rig when you have this hitch...

[jerem0621]

Hi N-Trouble...

Nobody is saying there is a catostrauphic failure here or a Major issue. The hitch from Anderson is proving very safe and reliable.

Even Andersen has said in an the email that some users reported some minor bending of the bed floor. Why would there not be? It's not the end of the world or Even dangerous. If they follow the other companies lead and add the strips the issue would probably go away. Doing small things like this adds value to the product in customers eyes.

The Andersen is picking up sales, once they make a big enough dent in B&W's sales I am sure B&W will start pointing out small things (and it is a small thing) like this to boost their sales back up.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[N-Trouble]

Me Again wrote:

N-Trouble wrote:
If the hitch is putting enough stress on the bed to actually dent it then you have bigger issues like an loose GN hitch that is not securely fastened to the frame.

I have yet to see any reports of Anderson hitch users complaining of dented truck beds so I think you guys are all barking up the wrong tree...

If there are reports out there please site them here and we can continue this discussion otherwise let it go.

Go back and read my quote from the Anderson rep!!! Chris

5 reports out of ?, and small dimples at that is hardly something to get my panties in a bunch...

If someone really believes they need to fill the lower corregated section a few measurements and a quick trip to a local platics shop would do the trick.

[Me_Again]

N-Trouble wrote:
If the hitch is putting enough stress on the bed to actually dent it then you have bigger issues like an loose GN hitch that is not securely fastened to the frame.

I have yet to see any reports of Anderson hitch users complaining of dented truck beds so I think you guys are all barking up the wrong tree...

If there are reports out there please site them here and we can continue this discussion otherwise let it go.

Go back and read my quote from the Anderson rep!!! Chris

[Cummins12V98]

N-Trouble wrote:
If the hitch is putting enough stress on the bed to actually dent it then you have bigger issues like an loose GN hitch that is not securely fastened to the frame.

I have yet to see any reports of Anderson hitch users complaining of dented truck beds so I think you guys are all barking up the wrong tree...

If there are reports out there please site them here and we can continue this discussion otherwise let it go.

When you are on the upper end of the hitch limits a filler strip should be added. B&W learned this from bed corrugation location changes over the years and bed metal thickness. Looks like Andersen copied B&W's idea on the "sled" sides of the base they really should provide fillers.

[N-Trouble]

If the hitch is putting enough stress on the bed to actually dent it then you have bigger issues like an loose GN hitch that is not securely fastened to the frame.

I have yet to see any reports of Anderson hitch users complaining of dented truck beds so I think you guys are all barking up the wrong tree...

If there are reports out there please site them here and we can continue this discussion otherwise let it go.

[fj12ryder]

:R

[Me_Again]

Progress finally! Chris

[jerem0621]

Thanks Cummins!

Here are some screenshots I took to illustrate these strips that fill up the bed corrugations. (or lack of it in the case of the Andersen)

Here is the Andersen Ultimate Fifth Wheel Connection.



Here is the BullDog High Rise Fifth Wheel you can use with a Cequent Gooseneck or a B&W. Its a beefy looking hitch with a single jaw design.



Finally, the New B&W Companion... Its awesome looking.

On edit my annotation below is not correct though...the strips under the Companion are also plastic.



It looks like Andersen needs to add some corrugation fillers to be on par with the other two hitches.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[Cummins12V98]

jerem0621 wrote:
Just for the sake of understanding...

The load that is distributed by the base of these hitches is transmitted to the 'sheet metal' floor of the truck... But isn't there 'hat channels' under the sheet metal that sits directly on the frame? That means that the vertical load is transmitted through the floor, to the hat channels, to the frame of the truck.

If this is the case then the gooseneck post on the B&W/Bulldog hitches and the gooseneck ball on the Anderson pretty much provide an anchor for the hitch... Not specifically a vertical support...more lateral support, torque resistance/anchor.

Am I understanding this concept correctly?

The vertical load would travel from the kingpin, to the hitch head, to the base, to the floor, to the hat channels, to the vehicle frame.

The horizontal load (start, stop, and pulling force) is stabilized and anchored by the post/gooseneck ball?

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Yes.

The spacer B&W provides for the older stile will fill in the hollow/low part of the bed so there is continuous support from the hitch base to the frame. The new Companion has an adjustable filler pc.

[jerem0621]

Just for the sake of understanding...

The load that is distributed by the base of these hitches is transmitted to the 'sheet metal' floor of the truck... But isn't there 'hat channels' under the sheet metal that sits directly on the frame? That means that the vertical load is transmitted through the floor, to the hat channels, to the frame of the truck.

If this is the case then the gooseneck post on the B&W/Bulldog hitches and the gooseneck ball on the Anderson pretty much provide an anchor for the hitch... Not specifically a vertical support...more lateral support, torque resistance/anchor.

Am I understanding this concept correctly?

The vertical load would travel from the kingpin, to the hitch head, to the base, to the floor, to the hat channels, to the vehicle frame.

The horizontal load (start, stop, and pulling force) is stabilized and anchored by the post/gooseneck ball?

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[Cummins12V98]

Not at all speaking for the Andersen.

The B&W system was designed several years ago when the bed steel was thicker. It is a designed system. B&W sent me spacers so the base will directly press down on the bottom of the bed corrugation that is attached to cross hat channel rails that sit on the frame. There are two that are centered 16" or so apart directly under the hitch.

On my 2011 RAM the support PC of the hitch sits directly over the low part of the bed corrugation. So with my heavy load the base actually had a small tweak in it. B&W sent the strips and a complete new base. I installed the plastic strips under the new base and have had no further tweaking of the base.

Since, they have redesigned the base and do provide strips that can be aligned under the base for full contact. It has gone from a 18-20K rating and from 4,500-5,000# tongue rating.

Bottom line times have changed and I am pushing the limits of their original design that was based on older bed corrugation locations. Now with the strips I have no problems.

The same head portion is used on all B&W hitches. The base and attachment system makes them rate differently.

The RAM truck for example has the 4 puck attachment system as an option. Install the RVK3600 and it will have a 25K tow and 6,250# pin rating.

[Mr__Black]

So much non sense on this board.

I can only take it in small doses.

I've used both the Andersen gooseneck adapter and the B&W companion with zero problems and no failures nor do I ever expect there to be.

I'll let you know when my 12k pound trailer falls off and kills a school bus full of kids.

[fj12ryder]

Me Again wrote:

glazier wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:
This Guy had his bed broke by the flex in his 18k Companion.

I am not crazy about the adaptor part of the Companion, Andersen, or the Bull Dog fifth wheel adaptor hitches...however, there are millions of miles and hundreds of thousands of users with these products.

You can even add the Curt X5 adaptor base rails to this bunch. These all distribute some weight to the bed floor.

I know they work, I don't think they are unsafe...at all... But the flex may damage some peoples bed to one degree or another...or it may not.


I don't hate the fifth wheel rails...if I were installing a fiver hitch...I would probably use the rails. They just seem more secure giving a firm wide base with four anchor points directly on the frame. My dad has the rails and I can't say the get in the way of using the bed. My best friend had rails in his last truck. I helped him load many things in and out of the bed. The rails never seemed to get in the way.

What I would probably do is install the fifth wheel rails and get a gooseneck plate for my rails if I ever needed to pull a gooseneck. I understand the desire for a "clean bed" but the reality is that most beds are not "clean" with or without the rails.

I know a man who owns a 2012 F250 XL and pulls a fiver.... He has fifth wheel rails...he also has a B&W turnover ball for his horse trailer...I kinda scratch my head on that one...I would do one or the other. $125 gooseneck plate for the rails would have solved the issue.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

The guy in the video stated he installed flat bar in the low part of the bed floor ( he had an older design). B&W provides a part that does just that on all Companion hitches now. With the flats of a bed supporting the weight directly over the bed channels, the Companion is a very strong secure hitch.

It still carries the pin weight load on the sheet metal bed floor. Not the truck's steel frame.

"STEP 3: INSTALL BASE
Note: If truck is equipped with a removable bed liner or mat. It should be removed or it must be cut to allow the base to directly connect with the bed. It is acceptable to install the RV base over a spray in bed liner.
Place the RV Base over the RV post so that the U-bolts wrap around the RV post. (PIC E) Then place a ½” washer (K) on the ½” x 3” draw-down bolt (D), insert the bolt through the hole in the top flange of the RV base and hand-thread the draw-down bolt into the RV Post. **NOTE: DO NOT lubricate the draw down bolt or U-bolts, the torque value is for dry threads. Square the RV base legs with the ribs of the truck bed and then tighten the ½” x 3” draw-down bolt to 40 ft-lb. Next, tighten the two u-bolts to 80 ft-lb. to secure the RV Base to the RV Post. It is very important that the draw-down bolt is tightened before the U-bolts are tightened. When the RV Base is installed correctly, the RV Post should have a ¼” to 1” gap between the RV Post and the RV Base where the draw-down bolt attaches.(PIC F) Also, you should not be able to disengage the latch pin in the wheel well when the base is installed correctly."

Note the part "RV Post should have a ¼” to 1” gap between the RV Post and the RV Base where the draw-down bolt attaches." The horizontal U-bolts are not for vertical load bearing, they are to prevent horizontal movement of the hitch.

http://www.turnoverball.com/sites/default/files/rvk3000_06_27_2013.pdf

Chris

Geeze give it a rest. You're not going to change anyone's mind. You're starting to sound like the FastEagle and his love of all things ST tire.

[stewks]

Riddler6.7 wrote:

stewks wrote:
I was able to rotate the Andersen hitch around to get the best clearance (about like a no slide hitch).

Just curious if you have called and asked andersen about turning the base around as i know at least my hitch has a sticker on it that indicates which way to have it facing. I really would like to turn it around to move the weight forward a little more, but just not sure if they decided to put the sticker on there for safety reasons or not.

I really meant to say I rotated the hitch CONNECTOR BLOCK around. That places the Kingpin almost right over the gooseneck ball. It worked well to give me the clearance to the tailgate that would not have worked otherwise. I think rotating the hitch base probably is not a good idea since I am sure the angled pipes are designed to absorb fore and aft loads differently since they are angled differently. Sorry for the confusion.