Anyone do a total rebuild of a TH ramp?

[Taurus18]

We bought a used TH that had a couple soft spots in the ramp that are just getting worse, so I'm probably looking at doing a total rebuild in the near future and was hoping to get some guidance.
It is a 21' Jayco Octane if that helps.

[RideSlow]

invstr55 wrote:


Lower corner frame seams are a primary area that water can get in when door is open, check to make sure they do not open as the ramp is lowered.

Will be checking mine, hadn't thought of that.

[upontheridge]

Working on rebuilding my Lippert Ramp Door. Got the aluminum frame sections off after some heavy pounding and pulling. Pulled the rubber tread off the inside of the door and the exterior fiberglass off the outside of the door. Luan plywood at both the top and the bottom of the door completely rotted. Middle section was okay. The door is only 5 years old and is on a KZ MXT 303 toy hauler.

[Taurus18]

invstr55 wrote:
Lower corner frame seams are a primary area that water can get in when door is open, check to make sure they do not open as the ramp is lowered.

Thanks, I'll double check. I toyed with the idea of a self tapping screw to hold those so they could not move and may do so yet.

[invstr55]

Taurus18 wrote:
Rebuild is done!
Less than $250 but LOTS of sweat. It's noticeably heavier but nice and solid for the first time since we've owned it. I caulked everywhere it looked like moisture might even think about getting in.
The problem with my plan above is the channel was actually 1 5/8" not 1 3/4", so going back in was a very tight fit. Fortunately foam can be compressed.
I took pictures as I went so when time permits I'll try to put together a narrated slideshow to post on YouTube.

Lower corner frame seams are a primary area that water can get in when door is open, check to make sure they do not open as the ramp is lowered.

[Taurus18]

Rebuild is done!
Less than $250 but LOTS of sweat. It's noticeably heavier but nice and solid for the first time since we've owned it. I caulked everywhere it looked like moisture might even think about getting in.
The problem with my plan above is the channel was actually 1 5/8" not 1 3/4", so going back in was a very tight fit. Fortunately foam can be compressed.
I took pictures as I went so when time permits I'll try to put together a narrated slideshow to post on YouTube.

[invstr55]

WhitehouseLV wrote:

TexasRangerRzR wrote:

WhitehouseLV wrote:
have you figured out what caused the soft spots? I just noticed my ramp has a wet spot all along the bottom of it.

For me, it was water intrusion at the bolts for the latches.

Thanks. I'll have to look that over better.

Most will get water from being open when it rains or is very humid, the lower corners of frame open enough to let moisture in and when close the moisture is trapped there causing the rot.

[portscanner]

See my post Rotten Ramp Ruins Relaxing Recreation

only problem with the above link - the links to the pictures got busted, so here are the pictures

[Taurus18]

fred42 wrote:
Taurus18,

Not sure if you have the standard Lippert ramp door that a lot of us have, but I wanted to let you know about the structure of this door.

The first surprising thing is that there is absolutely no structural members, word or metal, anywhere within the interior of the door. Only the perimeter has a metal frame. The strength comes from high pressure lamination of otherwise weak materials.

The overall 1 5/8" cross-section looks like this: (values are approximate and I am calling the materials as they appear to me)

Outside
1/16" fiberglass
1/8" composite
1 1/4" white Styrofoam
1/8" luan plywood
1/16" non-skid material
Inside

This the 2016 model that I have, They may make other configurations.

Close! Since mine popped out of the frame Monday I was able to get a good look and it appears to be:
Outside
1/16" fiberglass
1/8" plywood
1 1/2" foam
1/8" plywood
1/8" non skid material.

My plan going back will be:
Outside
1/16" fiberglass (reusing existing)
1/4" plywood
1" foam
3/8" plywood
1/8" non skid (using existing)
plus I will have 4 1"x1 5/8" 'studs' running bottom to top and a 10" aluminum flashing on the outside to reinforce where the hinge system bolts on.
total cost of material including a T-40 Torx bit = $195

[TexasRangerRzR]

fj12ryder wrote:

TexasRangerRzR wrote:
I plan to get Line-X coating on the inside of mine.

I've got Line-X coating on the bed of my truck, and while it's tough, it's not something I would put on a door for its non-slip properties. I'm still searching for something really good for my toyhauler door.

I believe the Line-X installer can make it rougher by adding more grit.

[WhitehouseLV]

TexasRangerRzR wrote:

WhitehouseLV wrote:
have you figured out what caused the soft spots? I just noticed my ramp has a wet spot all along the bottom of it.

For me, it was water intrusion at the bolts for the latches.

Thanks. I'll have to look that over better.

[fj12ryder]

TexasRangerRzR wrote:
I plan to get Line-X coating on the inside of mine.

I've got Line-X coating on the bed of my truck, and while it's tough, it's not something I would put on a door for its non-slip properties. I'm still searching for something really good for my toyhauler door.

[TexasRangerRzR]

WhitehouseLV wrote:
have you figured out what caused the soft spots? I just noticed my ramp has a wet spot all along the bottom of it.

For me, it was water intrusion at the bolts for the latches.

[WhitehouseLV]

have you figured out what caused the soft spots? I just noticed my ramp has a wet spot all along the bottom of it.

[Taurus18]

arhayes wrote:

Sorry to hijack the thread, Taurus!

No worries. While I wish no one ill will, there is a part of me that's glad to hear I'm not the only one 😞