Blew out back RH window with my camper tonight,,,, Confused

[omextreme]

So I managed to hit the truck with the camper tonight on the passenger side and blow out the window and dent the cab but I am confused.

I am running a non slider hitch, The Anderson setup on a short bed. I know I really should have a slider but I went with the Anderson to save weight.

Here is the confusion... When i first tested the setup I was able to turn to the left on flat ground rolling forward to just shy of 90 deg...

I hit the cab tonight during a right turn moving forward not much past 75 deg on totally flat ground.

I never tested a hard right turn I just assumed that since a left turn didnt hit, the right wouldn't either...

What am i missing? Why did i hit on the right turn?

Moderator edit to re-size picture to forum recommended limit of 640px maximum width.

[RustyJC]

IdaD wrote:
Yeah, a 5 link coil setup and a swaybar vs leaf springs. That's it. The axles, frame, brakes, drive train, tires and everything else on the truck is the same as 3500.

According to cumminsforum, in 2013 the Ram 3500 received a new 50KSI frame and all new 3 link front and rear leaf suspension, while the 2500 kept the old 30KSI frame with 5 link front and coil rear suspension.

Rusty

[IdaD]

jerem0621 wrote:

IdaD wrote:

omextreme wrote:

The Anderson has a couple of adjustments. One is how you orient the hitch itself (can be forward or aft of the gooseneck), and the other is how you orient that kingpin adapter. I believe in total you have about 8" of potential offset between the two of them.

Yes the anderson can be set further back, But sadly Like so many others I failed to research the Cargo Capacity side of things when I Bought the 2500. I was trying to keep the pin centered or slightly ahead of the rear axle since I am so close to max capacity...

The rear springs on your truck are literally the only thing different from a SRW 3500, and they can handle a 3000+ lb load without issue (the 6.4 version of your truck weighs about the same empty at the rear axle but has a payload rating of around 3300 lbs if I'm not mistaken.)

Anyway, in the future I'd pay more attention to your 6500 lb RAWR and flip that Anderson around to give yourself an extra margin of error. I'm glad you brought this up though as it might explain why this accident occurred.

I am pretty sure that the rear suspension configuration is totally different from a 2500 Ram to a 3500 Ram.

IIRC the 3500 Ram SRW has traditional leaf spring suspension and the 2500 has 4 link suspension with coils. So, its not exactly like the old F250 to f350 SRW where you just swap springs and blocks and viola a 3500 is born.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Yeah, a 5 link coil setup and a swaybar vs leaf springs. That's it. The axles, frame, brakes, drive train, tires and everything else on the truck is the same as 3500. The coils have no trouble at all carrying 3000+ lbs without sagging excessively (as they are officially rated to carry with the same suspension in a 6.4 model).

Any of the current diesel 3/4 tons are very underrated in terms of official payload capacity, as has been discussed at length on this site. I just pointed that out to OP because it appears as though his unnecessary concern about his payload capacity may have contributed to his bashed up truck.

[omextreme]

If the weight difference is only #200-#300 lbs between forward and rear positions then I need to try the rearward position before I drop money on the slider... Just to see.

[transamz9]

IdaD wrote:

omextreme wrote:

The Anderson has a couple of adjustments. One is how you orient the hitch itself (can be forward or aft of the gooseneck), and the other is how you orient that kingpin adapter. I believe in total you have about 8" of potential offset between the two of them.

Yes the anderson can be set further back, But sadly Like so many others I failed to research the Cargo Capacity side of things when I Bought the 2500. I was trying to keep the pin centered or slightly ahead of the rear axle since I am so close to max capacity...

The rear springs on your truck are literally the only thing different from a SRW 3500, and they can handle a 3000+ lb load without issue (the 6.4 version of your truck weighs about the same empty at the rear axle but has a payload rating of around 3300 lbs if I'm not mistaken.)

Anyway, in the future I'd pay more attention to your 6500 lb RAWR and flip that Anderson around to give yourself an extra margin of error. I'm glad you brought this up though as it might explain why this accident occurred.

There is literally only about 200# difference between the forward and rearward positions. I don't think he would even notice the difference. I have the hit in my 2500 mounted 6" behind the axle and everything handles and drives great.

[transamz9]

jerem0621 wrote:

IdaD wrote:

omextreme wrote:

The Anderson has a couple of adjustments. One is how you orient the hitch itself (can be forward or aft of the gooseneck), and the other is how you orient that kingpin adapter. I believe in total you have about 8" of potential offset between the two of them.

Yes the anderson can be set further back, But sadly Like so many others I failed to research the Cargo Capacity side of things when I Bought the 2500. I was trying to keep the pin centered or slightly ahead of the rear axle since I am so close to max capacity...

The rear springs on your truck are literally the only thing different from a SRW 3500, and they can handle a 3000+ lb load without issue (the 6.4 version of your truck weighs about the same empty at the rear axle but has a payload rating of around 3300 lbs if I'm not mistaken.)

Anyway, in the future I'd pay more attention to your 6500 lb RAWR and flip that Anderson around to give yourself an extra margin of error. I'm glad you brought this up though as it might explain why this accident occurred.

I am pretty sure that the rear suspension configuration is totally different from a 2500 Ram to a 3500 Ram.

IIRC the 3500 Ram SRW has traditional leaf spring suspension and the 2500 has 4 link suspension with coils. So, its not exactly like the old F250 to f350 SRW where you just swap springs and blocks and viola a 3500 is born.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

I think what he is saying is they use the same axle with different suspension mounts. The axles are still rated the same.

[jerem0621]

IdaD wrote:

omextreme wrote:

The Anderson has a couple of adjustments. One is how you orient the hitch itself (can be forward or aft of the gooseneck), and the other is how you orient that kingpin adapter. I believe in total you have about 8" of potential offset between the two of them.

Yes the anderson can be set further back, But sadly Like so many others I failed to research the Cargo Capacity side of things when I Bought the 2500. I was trying to keep the pin centered or slightly ahead of the rear axle since I am so close to max capacity...

The rear springs on your truck are literally the only thing different from a SRW 3500, and they can handle a 3000+ lb load without issue (the 6.4 version of your truck weighs about the same empty at the rear axle but has a payload rating of around 3300 lbs if I'm not mistaken.)

Anyway, in the future I'd pay more attention to your 6500 lb RAWR and flip that Anderson around to give yourself an extra margin of error. I'm glad you brought this up though as it might explain why this accident occurred.

I am pretty sure that the rear suspension configuration is totally different from a 2500 Ram to a 3500 Ram.

IIRC the 3500 Ram SRW has traditional leaf spring suspension and the 2500 has 4 link suspension with coils. So, its not exactly like the old F250 to f350 SRW where you just swap springs and blocks and viola a 3500 is born.

Thanks!

Jeremiah

[NC_Hauler]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"I don't see how the B&K RVK3600 could replace a slider hitch"

I have no personal experience but some will run the 3600 in the rear most position and have had no problems.

I think everyone knows I am a BIG B&W promoter but "IF" I had a SB truck and had a slider it would be the PulRite auto slide. I would probably forget to slide back the manual slider as our friends did and blew out their rear window if I had the B&W.

Ditto:B

[IdaD]

Double post deleted.

[IdaD]

omextreme wrote:

The Anderson has a couple of adjustments. One is how you orient the hitch itself (can be forward or aft of the gooseneck), and the other is how you orient that kingpin adapter. I believe in total you have about 8" of potential offset between the two of them.

Yes the anderson can be set further back, But sadly Like so many others I failed to research the Cargo Capacity side of things when I Bought the 2500. I was trying to keep the pin centered or slightly ahead of the rear axle since I am so close to max capacity...

The rear springs on your truck are literally the only thing different from a SRW 3500, and they can handle a 3000+ lb load without issue (the 6.4 version of your truck weighs about the same empty at the rear axle but has a payload rating of around 3300 lbs if I'm not mistaken.)

Anyway, in the future I'd pay more attention to your 6500 lb RAWR and flip that Anderson around to give yourself an extra margin of error. I'm glad you brought this up though as it might explain why this accident occurred.

[cummins2014]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
"I don't see how the B&K RVK3600 could replace a slider hitch"

I have no personal experience but some will run the 3600 in the rear most position and have had no problems.

I think everyone knows I am a BIG B&W promoter but "IF" I had a SB truck and had a slider it would be the PulRite auto slide. I would probably forget to slide back the manual slider as our friends did and blew out their rear window if I had the B&W.

I agree,If you going to blow out your windows, and dent your truck, IMO you better have an auto slide, even a manual slider will do you no good if you don't use it.

[RollandB]

one thought to pass along if the OP is looking for an auto sliding hitch, is to keep an eye out on Craigslist. I had a manual slider with some age on it, picked up a used Pullrite Superglide that hadn't been installed (had my doubts until I looked at it in person). I paid $500 for it, then about $300 more for the brackets under the box and installation.

[Cummins12V98]

"I don't see how the B&K RVK3600 could replace a slider hitch"

I have no personal experience but some will run the 3600 in the rear most position and have had no problems.

I think everyone knows I am a BIG B&W promoter but "IF" I had a SB truck and had a slider it would be the PulRite auto slide. I would probably forget to slide back the manual slider as our friends did and blew out their rear window if I had the B&W.

[omextreme]

The Anderson has a couple of adjustments. One is how you orient the hitch itself (can be forward or aft of the gooseneck), and the other is how you orient that kingpin adapter. I believe in total you have about 8" of potential offset between the two of them.

Yes the anderson can be set further back, But sadly Like so many others I failed to research the Cargo Capacity side of things when I Bought the 2500. I was trying to keep the pin centered or slightly ahead of the rear axle since I am so close to max capacity...

[IdaD]

NC Hauler wrote:

Me Again wrote:

SoundGuy wrote:


Unfortunate to be sure but as you say this should remind others towing with a short bed that a slider should be considered mandatory, not optional.

I had numerous people tried to talk me out of a slider, stating that the Andersen or B&W RVK3600 would work fine. And they do until you hit!

Chris

I've ALWAYS recommended using a slide hitch in a short bed truck. I had a Reese slider in a short bed Chevy years ago and hit the upper drivers side back...put a dent in about same place OP did, but opposite side...made sharp left turn and I should have used my slider, but didn't...and paid to fix the dent....I never "assumed" I could make a sharp forward turn after that...next truck was a long bed:B


My philosophy for a short bed truck was/is: It's better to have a slider type hitch and never need it, then to need one and not have one.

I don't see how the B&K RVK3600 could replace a slider hitch:h... I know the Andersen has two positions for the hitch ball....one position for long bed and one for a short bed, but that is about all I know about the Andersen.

The Anderson has a couple of adjustments. One is how you orient the hitch itself (can be forward or aft of the gooseneck), and the other is how you orient that kingpin adapter. I believe in total you have about 8" of potential offset between the two of them.

[ol_Bombero-JC]

omextreme wrote:

up2nogood wrote:

schlep1967 wrote:

omextreme wrote:

jerem0621 wrote:
Would the hitch be cheaper if ordered online?

Thanks!

Jeremiah

Yes definitely, and I will price them out again however whenever possible I really like to try to buy at the local shops. As long as they are within a few hundred dollars of the online price Ill go through them.

It is always nice to get a cheaper price on something but when I have that friday afternoon issue that a good RV shop can solve for me and its out of business there is no comfort in knowing I saved a few hundred bucks over the years buying cheaper online.

Now with that said... If i can save $500 bucks or more then budget wins over my desire to help local business... I have to feed the kids

Getting the hitch might be cheaper online. But the delivery guy does not install them. Pay the dealer that has installed them before. Odds are they have at least some clue as to what they are doing.

Thats true the delivery guy does not install, BUT hundreds installl their own. His estimate is a total rip off . Aprox $1100.00 to install a $1100 hitch :h

In all fairness the estimate they quoted was for the 21k hitch and the Rail to Puck adapter.... But yes still high and I can Install myself...

Several years ago there was a post by a guy who had purchased a *new*
Chevy DA to tow his fifth.

He purchased a hitch from a local dealer who had experience installing various hitches.

He had even talked to the guy doing the installations.

Somehow (distracted, or?) the installer drilled holes in the *frame*
in the wrong location!..:(..:(

yes - the shop admitted their error..:R

That was the reason for the post......advice on what to do??..:?

As you can imagine, "advice" covered LOTS of ground - and several pages!

Long story short - the shop found a different brand of hitch that utilized the holes already drilled - which was acceptable with the truck owner.

IMO - *If* I was purchasing a hitch from a reputable dealer, with supposed installation experience - I would want to see a previous installation of a similar hitch, and *know* who the installer was.

Since I am a tightwad....when I purchased a PR SG for my short bed
pickup (2005), I got the best deal I could....and with the help of a friend installed it myself.

I had *never* installed a 5th wheel hitch before, the friend had done *one* (not a PR SG) on a pickup he had owned several years prior.

Figured if someone is going to screw it up, might as well be me.
(No frame drilling req'd - except the floor of the bed)

All went well - still happy with the results, and I wouldn't hesitate to install a hitch again...:C

Whatever works best for *you*..;)

~