electric for a electric heater

[rb71]

Hello Everyone,

I'm looking for a idea to run electric from campground electric straight to the heater. I don't trust the wiring in the camper and most breakers are only 15 amp.

I don't know if they make a plug to come up through the floor in the garage.

[colliehauler]

As Joebedfordsaid rv plugs are like 3m connectors in they just pinch the wire for a connections. For low wattage they are fine but I don't trust them in high current device's, especially while I'm asleep.

I like what others have done replacing them with hard wire plugs. I just run my heater on the 750 watt setting and use two heaters. This will keep my RV warm down to the mid 20's.

This is my opinion only and they might be just fine.

[joebedford]

I don't like the snap in receptacles they used in my TH. I've been meaning to replace one that get regularly used by a 1500 watt heater with a residential receptacle. The wires only make tiny contact with the receptacle.

I also have a couple of spare breaker positions in my panel. I'm going to add a new breaker with one receptacle for a second heater. That will involve moving one circuit to the other side to keep both legs of the 50A balanced.

It's been on the list since I first got the rig but we've survived 3 winters without it. I expect to open up the back of those receptacles and find scorching.

One final thought - I'd be reluctant to plug a 1500W heater into a circuit with a 20A breaker. That might make the cord from your heater to the 20A extension a fuse.

[rb71]

Thanks for all the replies and ideas.

I kind of was hoping of a plug that would go straight threw the side wall that was finished on both sides.

[chinook507]

I run 3 electric heaters on low in my TH while plugged in to a pedestal. I have never had an issue. I only have a 30 amp setup and have stayed nice and warm. I did make sure when I run them they are split up to different circuits in the TH.

[msmith1_wa]

Look to see if there is a gap at a bottom corner of your ramp door. This is what I have done. I did have to use one of the flat cords, because a round one would have been too big.

[Pop-Pop_C]

We use two dual stage oscillating tower heaters. 750/1500 watt electric heaters, plus the fireplace.
The propane gas furnacess are loud and costly to run They keep the 40' MH quite comfortable. No extra cost for us, as electric is included in the price.

[lawnspecialties]

colliehauler wrote:

lawnspecialties wrote:
No idea here outside of running an extension cord from the box and somehow into the camper.

But on a side note, why no trusting of the camper wiring? We run electric heaters all the time when we're at campgrounds in the winter. Saves on LP gas. Ours are almost always rated 1500 watts and it'll run the entire time we're there with no problems. Plus, we've done this with all four of our past campers.

Pull out one of the trailers plug in from the wall. Very cheap plug nothing like a home. I don't trust mine over 750 watts for a heater.

TH have air vents for gas fumes. You could run the cord through one of those.

I guess we've just been really lucky since 2004. Who knew?

[taken]

rb71 wrote:
Thanks for all the replies.

A 1500w heater requires 13.63 amps to run so if the tv or anything else is on its over loaded.

I like the idea of the generator box. But, I was hoping there was something where theres a male plug on the outside and receptacle on the inside.

Thanks Everyone

You're way overthinking it. We run a 1500 oil filled heater off any outlet in our RV and never popped a breaker. Sure, plug a hair dryer into the same outlet and you'll have an issue but use common sense and you'll never have an issue. Every big draw item in the RV is already on it's own circuit so unless you do something really clueless, you'll never pop a breaker. 5 seconds of forethought and planning will save you a completely unnecessary project.

[Terryallan]

DutchmenSport wrote:
I don't have a Toy Hauler, but I use a 15-20 amp extension cord from the power post all the time. I just put it through one of he windows. Pull the screen out a bit leave the window cracked open. Besides .... ESPECIALLY in the winter ... we always leave a couple windows cracked anyway to reduce inside condensation. This serves 2 purposes!

I use the extension cord when cooking with our electric skillet or electric griddle. When cooking outside, I use the same extension cord, just pull it out of the window.

A few times, I've used it for a ceramic space heater, but finally figured out we can run 2 heaters at the same time plugged inside the camper. But the electric skillet just pulls a bit too much.

AND! I've NEVER had anyone from any campground tell me I cannot or should not do this. If the campground electric post has a 30 amp for the camper and 2 - 20 amp household plus .... why can't they all be used?

I am wit you. When we setup. I use the 50 amp to 30 amp adapter, and run the TT off the 50 amp outlet. I use the 30 amp outlet for the outside fridge, griddle, and toaster oven. And IF I need to. I will use the 15 amp for the fans, or just what ever. They are all there. I am paying for them. I will use them.

[DutchmenSport]

I don't have a Toy Hauler, but I use a 15-20 amp extension cord from the power post all the time. I just put it through one of he windows. Pull the screen out a bit leave the window cracked open. Besides .... ESPECIALLY in the winter ... we always leave a couple windows cracked anyway to reduce inside condensation. This serves 2 purposes!

I use the extension cord when cooking with our electric skillet or electric griddle. When cooking outside, I use the same extension cord, just pull it out of the window.

A few times, I've used it for a ceramic space heater, but finally figured out we can run 2 heaters at the same time plugged inside the camper. But the electric skillet just pulls a bit too much.

AND! I've NEVER had anyone from any campground tell me I cannot or should not do this. If the campground electric post has a 30 amp for the camper and 2 - 20 amp household plus .... why can't they all be used?

[Golden_HVAC]

I have a heated basement in my 97 Bounder. Under the passenger side nightstand, there is a factory installed vent from the basement to the bedroom, so that air blown into the basement has a return path.

You might consider a opening from a storage compartment (preferably the electrical compartment to the inside) that is only about 3" diameter. Have you seen the brass looking covers used in desktops to cover a hole cut for computer cables? You can buy those at Office Depot and other places. Basically you cut a 2" or 3" hole in the desk, then run the wiring through it. This cover has a small U shape cut out about 3/4" or 1" across, so it will hide the hole and wires are still going through a small section of that opening.

Anyway I ran my #12 extension cord through my air vent to the basement, then across that compartment to where the factory 30 amp cord goes out, and then to the 20 amp receptacle in the campground. I also had my 30 amp cord to run the other things in the RV, including 2 more electric heaters normally set on low heat output. This gave me a total of about 4 KW of electric heat, without overloading my 30 amp service.

When I spent the winter in Portland OR, the coldest nights only dropped to about 26F, so that was plenty of heat. By running electric heaters at 10 cents per KW, I got 80,000 Btu's of heat for about $2.20. Running the furnace would take a gallon of propane, or about $2.50 at the time. If I had a heat pump, the same 80,000 Btu's would only require $0.80.

Fred.

[Old-Biscuit]

IF I was afraid to use the RV outlets then I would rip them all out and rewire.

BUT not being afraid I have used space heaters every winter for supplemental heating .

No tripped breakers, no overloaded wiring, no hot outlets, no issues and the space heater ran for hours cause we were living in the 5vr

[bpadamson]

rb71 wrote:
Thanks for all the replies.

A 1500w heater requires 13.63 amps to run so if the tv or anything else is on its over loaded.

I like the idea of the generator box. But, I was hoping there was something where theres a male plug on the outside and receptacle on the inside.

Thanks Everyone

Here is the 'box' I put on mine, then pull the cord out... I got it on Amazon.

JR Products 541-2-A Polar White Deluxe Round Electric Cable Hatch with Back

[pianotuna]

Hi,

I've replaced all but one of my outlets with standard home receptacles.

I also added two additional shore power cords. They come in via the regular shore power cord box. So I have the OEM 30 amp, a 20 amp and 15 amp shore power cords.

The 'extra' shore power cords power dedicated outlets which I can use for additional electric heat.

I have a 'break out box' which converts a 50 amp to a 30 amp on one leg and two 20 amp outlets on the other leg. Each outlet has its own breaker.

In the dead of winter I draw a peak load of 7000 watts which allows me to heat 100% electrically at -37 C.