Equal bearing for both sides of landing gear?

[mtofell1]

My first 5th wheel had separate controls for the landing gear so this was never an issue but my new one is just one switch. How concerned do I need to be about getting both sides of the landing gear to start bearing weight at the same time? I know it's never going to be exactly the same but is using 1/2" plywood scraps enough? As in, worst case scenario one hits 1/2" before the other?

Unless I'm on totally level ground they never hit exactly at the same time. I just don't want to bend or twist anything excessively... but also can't imagine it's necessary to use shims every time I setup either 🙂

[mtofell1]

My rear jacks are manual so that's done just for stabilization after the landing gear is set. I mainly asked the question because you can watch the trailer twist slightly as one leg hits and starts to bear weight. I have to think the manufacturer spaces the holes on the landing gear at a distance that won't cause damage when people just drop and catch the nearest one.

[SailingOn]

On my previous rig occasionally after setup the door would bind in its frame. Every time that happened adjusting the rear stabilizers, which cranked down individually, fixed the frame twist causing the door to bind.
The newer rig brings both rear stabilizers down together and I've never had the door binding problem. Maybe because the Open Range has a stronger frame.
A half-inch difference in the front legs doesn't seem to matter.

[KMLsquared]

Ok, so I have been wanting to do this for a while and have not gotten to it yet but since no one has mentioned it I wonder if I'm missing something. If you drilled additional hole in the outer leg that were say 1.5" higher than the current holes, wouldn't that give you the option of half inch incraments? Thusley you could concivably be within a 1/4"?

Am I thinking right? Like a verneer caliper?

[Tom_Diane]

All are good replies but it seems there is a lot of over thinking on this.
However, if the eggs are sliding to one side of the skillet, that's sounds more like a leveling issue under the wheels!
As for the jacks, I run then down to a point then pull the pins and let them drop.
Then I simply just lift the jack and pin one hole up. I then run the jacks down so I can uncouple from the truck.
The jacks on the 5'er are likely not intended for leveling and I wouldn't want to put a twist on the coach.
The way I see it, if you drop both legs and pin them up one hole, you end up about an inch from the ground on both sides and the legs will be practically making contact with the ground at the same time! I Have never shimmed under the front jacks on the 5'er.

[mmanske]

My driveway is not level side-to-side so I went to CW and got the adjustable (screw in/out to adjust) feet for the landing gear on my old 5er. I would pull the pin until the foot is about 1" from wood on ground, then adjust each leg accordingly and then run them down with the powered switch. Worked perfectly.


http://www.campingworld.com/shopping/item/ultra-adjustable-footpad/61529

[rjsurfer]

FlatBroke wrote:
I have an adjustable foot on one side. Unpin the non adjustable side then extend until it's touching the ground. Then unpin the adjustable side and screw in or out until it touches the ground. Then just extend.

+1

Works great....

Ron W.

[FlatBroke]

I have an adjustable foot on one side. Unpin the non adjustable side then extend until it's touching the ground. Then unpin the adjustable side and screw in or out until it touches the ground. Then just extend.

[Irelands_child]

I had the same learning curve.
What I do is crib up as high as possible though leave enough room to level the trailer fore and aft. I then drop the legs until one just hits my boards. If it's within a half inch including using the adjusting pins and holes, I just finish my unhitching. I use a couple pieces of plywood about 12" square and 1/2 and 3/4 inch thick for fine tuning. The amount of leg extension is about as little as possible since it will affect the amount of that dreaded RV wiggle.

Why do some of these threads seem to always bring out the 'jokers' with zero positive input to a legitimate question:h Dam'!!!!!

[azjeffh]

I use the Barker Leg Leveler.

[Veebyes]

Run them down till each starts to take weight then run together.

If a little out side to side, DW complains when the eggs slide to one side of the pan, adjust individually till the bubble is right.

[rhagfo]

korbe wrote:
Besides my 1/2" ply, I have one 1/4" shim for the high side. Works great for us.

I have some 1/2" thinking about creating some 1/4". I know within a 1/2" or so is likely fine, just one more fine tuning item.

[mbrower]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
For 7 yrs. we set up/torn down our 5vr weekly.
I ran driven legs down from travel position a couple of inches then pulled the snap pins letting inner leg fall to ground (12X12 plastic 1/2" cutting boards under each leg)
Then would run driven legs down letting the pins snap into holes when they lined up and start lifting 5vr.

For me it was K.I.S.S.

This is exactly how I do it. Never a problem

[laknox]

Old-Biscuit wrote:
For 7 yrs. we set up/torn down our 5vr weekly.
I ran driven legs down from travel position a couple of inches then pulled the snap pins letting inner leg fall to ground (12X12 plastic 1/2" cutting boards under each leg)
Then would run driven legs down letting the pins snap into holes when they lined up and start lifting 5vr.

For me it was K.I.S.S.

Same here. 1", or so, difference isn't going to make a lot of difference, IMO.

Lyle

[greende]

Like most above, I get within 1/2". My front jacks are paired electric.