Hitching Up to 5th Wheel

[Tony_B]

I wrote these notes down after the fact and so I would like some help in correcting them. I have only done this one time and that was with guidance.

1). Inspect hitch
2). Verify "open" position of jaws.
3). Open tailgate
4). Back up truck close to hitch pin
5). Adjust camper height to match hitch pin height on camper to jaws on hitch
6). Back up truck to lock camper pin into jaws on hitch.
7). Verify jaws are locked around pin.
8). Replace safety pin to lock hitch
9). Attach Safety Breakaway Wire to hitch
10). Plug in cord for lights and breaks.
11). Raise tail gate
12). Check to see if all lights are working.
13). Remove wheel chocks
14). Raise rear legs
15). Raise front lags.
16). Test trailer brakes.
17). Drive off

Hope i thought of everything.
Thanks in advance

[okiejoe]

Before driving off, put it in any position you like but check TV antenna is down.

[MarkTwain]

djousma wrote:
Agree with Spud. I reordered your list making a few changes that I would add. Many, including me will have the camper height a little low, so that the hitch requires resistance to get under king pin. this will ensure that you aren't "high hitching", which can lead to unexpected situations. Also, Raising front legs 1" off of ground before removing wheel chocks, and do a "pull test" to ensure you are truly hitched up, and don't drop the trailer off the hitch.

1). Raise rear legs
2). Inspect hitch
3). Verify "open" position of jaws.
4). Open tailgate
5). Back up truck close to hitch pin
6). Adjust camper height to just below hitch pin height on camper to jaws on hitch, so that king pin will "ride up" hitch.
7). Back up truck to lock camper pin into jaws on hitch.
8). Verify jaws are locked around pin.
9). Replace safety pin to lock hitch
10). Attach Safety Breakaway Wire to hitch
11). Plug in cord for lights and breaks.
12). Raise tail gate
13). Check to see if all lights are working.
14). Raise front legs 1" off ground
15). Perform "pull test" to verify securely hitched
16). Remove wheel chocks
17). Test trailer brakes.
18). Drive off

Great list. #6 is a absolute must for me. Trying to back up with the hitch pin to high or low can damage your hitch.

[DReisinger]

I have read you should pick up about 100 lbs. on hitch when backing under. I always hitch with jaws closed, something I did for visibility is paint the jaws white, easier to see if they are closed. Of course this is on an old Reese 20K clunker.

[MFL]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
Personally I would do a pull test on most any other hitch but once you see the B&W in action you will realize it's a waste of time.

I guessed you were a little ahead of time with the earlier post about the visual test, being more accepted, than a few years ago. It's true, all hitches are not equal, and may not have the simple cam action of the B&W. I've towed a FW since 94, did the pull test once, but everyone needs to stay in their own comfort/safety zone.

I had a hitch with a slide bar, that was operated by a rotary arm that swung around, as the bar closed behind pin. You could then lock the arm handle, no way the bar could move. Yup, visual test (I look twice). It was a noisy clunker, and getting worse as the bar wore.

Jerry

[Cummins12V98]

Personally I would do a pull test on most any other hitch but once you see the B&W in action you will realize it's a waste of time.

[one_strange_tex]

Re: Visual vs. pull test on hitch.

I do both. I look at it, but I still do the pull test since that is a true function test versus an appearance test. It verifies that the jaw or jaws are truly holding in the pin. Along the same lines, I both apply the trailer brake with the umbilical hooked in and place a chock in front of one of the wheels. Redundancy. The consequences of a failure are severe enough that I don't feel it is a time to be concerned with convenience or eliminating steps. I am actually checking the integrity of the trailer braking system at the same time.

[larry_barnhart]

ChuckV1 wrote:
I agree with pull test, years ago on my over the road truck, I hitched to the trailer, looked to see that the pin was locked in an jaws shut, did an pull test and low an behold almost dropped the trailer, they weren't locked Ugh ...

A month our so later the same thing happened on our 5th wheel, check, yep they are locked, pull test, nope not locked, found I had to get 5th wheel fixed, was lucky I was not going down the road when the 5th wheel latch failed 😞

I have well over a million miles over the road driving, from day one I have always done a pull test no matter if it was an old truck or a new truck I never trusted the 5th wheel to be locked. You can do what you want but a quick Pull test never hurt anyone and it all about safety for you and others 🙂


I do the same as you chuck. No easy to do.

chevman

The other thing I do is put a lock on my pull handle so it can not be pulled, there are people out there that will walk by a trailer no matter what type and pull the pin lock handle, trust me I have seen such in truck stops. If i stop anywhere an am away from unit for more than a few minutes and out of site from such I always do a walk around, check my tires, check to make sure my king pin is latched, again it's all about safety 🙂

Safe Travels

[ChuckV1]

I agree with pull test, years ago on my over the road truck, I hitched to the trailer, looked to see that the pin was locked in an jaws shut, did an pull test and low an behold almost dropped the trailer, they weren't locked Ugh ...

A month our so later the same thing happened on our 5th wheel, check, yep they are locked, pull test, nope not locked, found I had to get 5th wheel fixed, was lucky I was not going down the road when the 5th wheel latch failed 😞

I have well over a million miles over the road driving, from day one I have always done a pull test no matter if it was an old truck or a new truck I never trusted the 5th wheel to be locked. You can do what you want but a quick Pull test never hurt anyone and it all about safety for you and others 🙂

The other thing I do is put a lock on my pull handle so it can not be pulled, there are people out there that will walk by a trailer no matter what type and pull the pin lock handle, trust me I have seen such in truck stops. If i stop anywhere an am away from unit for more than a few minutes and out of site from such I always do a walk around, check my tires, check to make sure my king pin is latched, again it's all about safety 🙂

Safe Travels

[Cummins12V98]

Nice to see some are understanding a VISUAL test with this hitch is just as good if not better than other hitches doing a pull test. A few years ago when I mentioned doing such a thing, oh my the sky was falling!

When I had a RBW hitch I ALWAYD did a pull test.

[CarnationSailor]

djousma wrote:
Agree with Spud. I reordered your list making a few changes that I would add. Many, including me will have the camper height a little low, so that the hitch requires resistance to get under king pin. this will ensure that you aren't "high hitching", which can lead to unexpected situations. Also, Raising front legs 1" off of ground before removing wheel chocks, and do a "pull test" to ensure you are truly hitched up, and don't drop the trailer off the hitch.

1). Raise rear legs
2). Inspect hitch
3). Verify "open" position of jaws.
4). Open tailgate
5). Back up truck close to hitch pin
6). Adjust camper height to just below hitch pin height on camper to jaws on hitch, so that king pin will "ride up" hitch.
7). Back up truck to lock camper pin into jaws on hitch.
8). Verify jaws are locked around pin.
9). Replace safety pin to lock hitch
10). Attach Safety Breakaway Wire to hitch
11). Plug in cord for lights and breaks.
12). Raise tail gate
13). Check to see if all lights are working.
14). Raise front legs 1" off ground
15). Perform "pull test" to verify securely hitched
16). Remove wheel chocks
17). Test trailer brakes.
18). Drive off

I suggest the following changes:

Add to 13: (running, brake, and turn signal lights)
Add 15A: Raise front jacks all the way up.

[mtofell1]

X3 on the above - I have the same hitch and I do the visual and set the pin and am okay with that.

[CarnationSailor]

Cummins12V98 wrote:
If your "VISUAL" test looks like this and your handle is pinned/locked no pull test is needed IMHO.

X2 regarding: "your handle is pinned and locked". I cannot insert the safety pin on my hitch unless the hitch is properly latched.

[Cummins12V98]

If your "VISUAL" test looks like this and your handle is pinned/locked no pull test is needed IMHO.

[Artum_Snowbird]

Another one I have to do is ensure the safety pin is not in before I back up to close. It usually is in the pinned open position. Another one I try to remember is get the fifth wiring out of its cubby hole befor I can't reach it.

[NMDriver]

All of the above sequence after you disconnect sewer, water hose, electric power, lower antennae, lower skylight covers, close windows, secure cabinets, close toilet lid, shut off pump, turn off hot water heater, place refrig on propane, lock side storage, put up steps, load wife, dogs, cats, grandkids, etc. etc.

Ohh and go back inside for the sun glasses, and last "pit stop" before hitting the road, so you can forget and leave the toilet seat up and let the wife's toothbrush fall in the bowl 😉