Hitching Up to 5th Wheel

[Tony_B]

I wrote these notes down after the fact and so I would like some help in correcting them. I have only done this one time and that was with guidance.

1). Inspect hitch
2). Verify "open" position of jaws.
3). Open tailgate
4). Back up truck close to hitch pin
5). Adjust camper height to match hitch pin height on camper to jaws on hitch
6). Back up truck to lock camper pin into jaws on hitch.
7). Verify jaws are locked around pin.
8). Replace safety pin to lock hitch
9). Attach Safety Breakaway Wire to hitch
10). Plug in cord for lights and breaks.
11). Raise tail gate
12). Check to see if all lights are working.
13). Remove wheel chocks
14). Raise rear legs
15). Raise front lags.
16). Test trailer brakes.
17). Drive off

Hope i thought of everything.
Thanks in advance

[Dr_Quick]

As far as #5, I do this. When I unhitch the trailer I use a clothespin, a string and a weight. Clip clothespin to someplace on hitch. Tie weight to end of string, the tie string to clothespin so weight touches ground. Now adjust trailer to make it level. When ready to leave clip clothespin to same place on hitch. Then adjust height of front of trailer so weight just touches ground. You should now be able to back right under hitch. Once you have your string make up, you should not have to ever change it.

[j2catfish]

On some hitches they are loaded without #3 - They operate with the jaws closed and open automatically when the hitch pin contacts the hitch body. Check to verify your hitch's requirement. Just sayin'
Catfish

on edit - changed #2 for #3. English usually works better than a reference to a number!
CF

[djousma]

Tony B wrote:
The guy showing me everything told me to lock the trailer brakes by pressing to small levers together on the dash. That would lock the trailer brakes (testing) and also be the pull test at the same time.

That's true, except you want to leave your front legs an inch or two off the ground, instead of all the way up, just in case it does drop, it wont damage anything.

[Tony_B]

The guy showing me everything told me to lock the trailer brakes by pressing to small levers together on the dash. That would lock the trailer brakes (testing) and also be the pull test at the same time.

[NMDriver]

You do not have a pull test in your sequence, some people do not do one, but it is a good idea as a double check on the hitch attachment.

Raise front legs 3 inches, pull against chock. Then 15, 13, 16... And yes 14 before 5 definitely.

[Tony_B]

Thanks. You are probably correct. I just thought that the trailer had to be lowered in the front to match the pin to truck hitch. Might be my confused memory. I'll pay better attention next time.

[djousma]

Agree with Spud. I reordered your list making a few changes that I would add. Many, including me will have the camper height a little low, so that the hitch requires resistance to get under king pin. this will ensure that you aren't "high hitching", which can lead to unexpected situations. Also, Raising front legs 1" off of ground before removing wheel chocks, and do a "pull test" to ensure you are truly hitched up, and don't drop the trailer off the hitch.

1). Raise rear legs
2). Inspect hitch
3). Verify "open" position of jaws.
4). Open tailgate
5). Back up truck close to hitch pin
6). Adjust camper height to just below hitch pin height on camper to jaws on hitch, so that king pin will "ride up" hitch.
7). Back up truck to lock camper pin into jaws on hitch.
8). Verify jaws are locked around pin.
9). Replace safety pin to lock hitch
10). Attach Safety Breakaway Wire to hitch
11). Plug in cord for lights and breaks.
12). Raise tail gate
13). Check to see if all lights are working.
14). Raise front legs 1" off ground
15). Perform "pull test" to verify securely hitched
16). Remove wheel chocks
17). Test trailer brakes.
18). Drive off

[spud1957]

#14 should be done before #5.

If you have your rear jacks down and you raise the front any significant amount, that puts a lot of stress on the rear jacks.