Honda generator noise mitigation

[Espee]

I have a Honda 2000 generator that I am experimenting with while operating it in the front compartment of the FW (adjacent to battery box).

Looking for ideas how to keep it from transferring vibration to the thin sheet metal compartment bottom. Maybe a 1/4" or thicker plate steel base would help? I put it on a 1/2" cushioned floor tile with a piece of carpet on top, but would like a little better isolation... Ideas?

FWIW:
It is easy to start by leaning it over a bit (so pull start clears the lower lip of compartment).
I can use a one gallon fuel can to transfer fuel onboard fairly easily.
I am looking into an exhaust flex extension to make sure co2 goes outside, even though the plan is to run it with the compartment door held open.
Anyone else had experience with a similar configuration?

[Espee]

Oh wouldnt sleep with it on, it only gets used a few hours at a time anyhow.
The exhaust connection is bolted and welded, so no issues there.
Regarding all the paranoia around CO, the install is comparable to the quick and dirty Onan install that some RV dealers would put in the same bay for $5K instead...
I like the idea of solar, but dont want to rely on it as many of the campgrounds we visit are not in favorable sun...

[work2much]

time2roll wrote:
300 watts solar would go a long way to keep the Honda quiet 😉

lol truth. Haven't needed a genset since installing 500 watt system and a couple extra batteries.

But to the OP, I would bring along an extension cord and set the generator away from the rv, preferably behind a tree where the noise, vibration and odor would be negligible. Hate the sound of them, even the quiet ones.

[rhagfo]

Me Again wrote:

TXiceman wrote:
I would not operate it while in the compartment, even with the door open. Too much possibility of exhaust entering the RV.

Ken

^^^^ X10

^^^^^^^^^^X20!!!!!

I want to wake up in the morning, very bad idea without securely redirecting exhaust.

[Espee]

Got the flex exhaust setup on ebay from "cubstman 1998", which works awesome.
And a pic of the final install:

I leave the door hanging down with a 6" gap and there are no issues with hot air on the intake side, but I prefer to leave the door latched open for xtra peace of mind, so put a padlock on genny to deter grab n run.

[Espee]

Of coarse had to install digital readout for CO in the front bedroom, and so far it stays at zero unless I run the bathroom exhaust fan (but it has never gone over 35 ppm, and drops to zero after shutting down fan). The alarm is supposed to go off if reading over 30 for an extended timeframe, no issues there but watch it anyhow.

[Espee]

OK got the install completed, which is a great help for those with a bad back!
For the sound deadener under the unit, I used cushioned floor tile on the bottom, then a 3/4 plywood piece, another cushioned tile, and a scrap piece of outdoor carpet on top.

After multiple uses I found the genny does not move from vibration at all.
The setup is smoother and quieter inside the rig than any other I have been in that has an Onan.

[mtofell1]

bucky wrote:
Mtofell1, I didn't realize the ventless fireplaces had an O2 sensor as a safety device. Thanks for sharing.

Yeah, with natural gas or propane burning appliances the really bad things with combustion happen when there is a depletion of oxygen. Rather than CO2 being produced, CO is produced which, of course is bad.

My main training and familiarity is with home appliances but what I do know is that everything gets greatly magnified with automobile combustion engines (like in the Honda 2000i). The propane conversion thing is another part I'm not super familiar with but the same basic principles apply.

My big beef with this discussion is the confined space a generator is running in and the lack of a barrier to living/sleeping areas. It's just the recipe for disaster.

I know in today's ultra-safe legalistic world we just get bombarded with warnings to point of just ignoring them all. This is one you really should not ignore.

[shawdowboss]

Good sound isolator/deadener applied directly to the inside of the compartment will go a long way to eliminating sound. Specialized for car firewalls and hoods is the way to go as those are heat, oil and gas resistant and are nearly permanent bond to the surface it's applied to.

I would then get a set of engine mount isolators to bolt onto the bottom of the Honda to help. These are thick heavy rubber made to isolate vibration. A good alternative is isolators made for air compressors, some you have to watch for oil/gas resistance, but they are designed for vibration isolation.

The set of compressor isolators only cost $15 bucks and one pair replaced all 4 of the existing feet of my portable generator - made a big difference.

All of these items are available from a good auto parts supply house. There are some pretty thick mats available to absorb and deaden the sound and vibrations.

[dedmiston]

D.E.Bishop wrote:
I know it is a long drive but Linoleum City in Hollywood has several different thicknesses of foam rubber flooring. It is not cheap but it is durable.

Too soft and the genny will sink into it, too hard and it wont absorb sound.

Look for foam retailer in the yellow pages9on or off line).

A lot of us leave the SCV from time to time and go into the city for provisions. 🙂

[SoundGuy]

D.E.Bishop wrote:
I know it is a long drive but Linoleum City in Hollywood has several different thicknesses of foam rubber flooring. It is not cheap but it is durable.

Too soft and the genny will sink into it, too hard and it wont absorb sound.

Look for foam retailer in the yellow pages9on or off line).

Well if the OP insists on mounting his genset within his rig (which I completely agree with others is a BAD idea) and he's looking for effective noise control barrier and not just "foam" which will be ineffective anyway then West Marine sells just what he's looking for.

[D_E_Bishop]

I know it is a long drive but Linoleum City in Hollywood has several different thicknesses of foam rubber flooring. It is not cheap but it is durable.

Too soft and the genny will sink into it, too hard and it wont absorb sound.

Look for foam retailer in the yellow pages9on or off line).

[SoundGuy]

Crabbypatty wrote:
I not only saw an exhaust extension on a honda 3000i, but they installed vents on compartment doors and installed a box fan, so when genny was on it was pulling air through the compartment at a good rate. The 2000 is so light, I would just place on the ground under the fver.Dont forget to add more co2 detectors.

What good are CO2 detectors when it's CO that's the issue? :h

To the OP ...

If you're willing to ante up for the cost Generator-Line offers a custom exhaust bezel for your EU2000i that would allow you to route hot cooling air and hot exhaust gas to the outside world. That said, as one who has owned 2 different EU2000i gensets I agree with others who wouldn't ever consider having a running genset anywhere near the rig.

I built a custom quiet box for my EU2000i that sits in the back of my Avalanche and which substantially mitigates the noise. Pics and videos start here.

[Crabbypatty]

I not only saw an exhaust extension on a honda 3000i, but they installed vents on compartment doors and installed a box fan, so when genny was on it was pulling air through the compartment at a good rate. The 2000 is so light, I would just place on the ground under the fver.Dont forget to add more co2 detectors.

[bucky]

Mtofell1, I didn't realize the ventless fireplaces had an O2 sensor as a safety device. Thanks for sharing.