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How Often to Pack Wheel Bearings

5thwheeleroldma
Explorer
Explorer
How often should I get the wheel bearings repacked? Had to replace axles about a year ago and the guy told me I should probably repack the bearings once a year since I only take a few trips a year. Is that right?

We usually take one major winter trip and one major summer trip, a couple of short trips ------ totalling around 10,000 miles/yr.
64 REPLIES 64

packnrat
Explorer
Explorer
so my never lub bearings should be replaced???
2001 rv, never checked them. but a very low millage coach. lack of money has had it sit unused for a couple years.
dam tires even dry rotted with 80% tread on them.??
2006 F250 4X4 auto 6.0 short bed
2001 sunnybrook 24 ft
1984 cj7 built up a bit
kg6tgu
never too many toys, just not enought room to keep them
one dog who belives she is the master. rip 12 12 2007
12 loving years and loyal to the end.
just out having fun

CJW8
Explorer
Explorer
Campinfan wrote:
So I have Lippert Axles and there is a rubber cap covering a zerk fitting. I am thinking these are bearing buddies or whatever (Actually EZ Lube)...but do I just squirt a few pumps of grease into this every year or so. Trailer is one year old with 2500-3000 miles on it. Any suggestions?


Bearing buddies and Dexter easy lube axles are 2 different animals. here is how to do your easy lubes. Easy Lube

Bearing buddies are a spring loaded bearing cap that keep your bearing grease pressurized to keep out moisture.
2003 Forest River Sierra M-37SP Toy Hauler- Traded in
2015 Keystone Raptor 332TS 5th wheel toy Hauler (sold)
2004 Winnebago Vectra. 2011 Jeep Grand Cherokee toad

PokerCamper
Explorer
Explorer
Hannibal wrote:
I think your assumption is good to go. Give the tires a good visual check including the date code. We're loading up for our trip this morning. Y'all have a save and fun trip!

Thanks, you have a great trip as well! Tires are visually good, date code already checked last year and I know from the previous owner that they've got less than 20K on them between his use and ours. They're cheap Chinese original equipment, but I'm planning to let the RV sit on them for another winter and then get new upgraded tires put on before next season starts.

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
I think your assumption is good to go. Give the tires a good visual check including the date code. We're loading up for our trip this morning. Y'all have a save and fun trip!
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

PokerCamper
Explorer
Explorer
bpounds wrote:
Not sure what you mean by a rubber cover over the lugs. That sounds like a hub cap on a truck. Your Cougar wouldn't have that as far as I know. My wheels look exactly like your pic, except that I have removed that chrome center cap.

Sorry for the confusing terminology. I'm referring to the rubber EZ-lube plug that protects the grease fitting at the end of the spindle.

Good to know about those chrome center caps - I'll remove them when I attempt to do a full grease pack after the season.

Just hitched up and took the fiver for a 10 mile local ride. Everything feels as solid as it did last fall and though I noticed a little "wop wop" feeling and noise, which I presume came from flat spots where the tires were parked all winter, it quickly went away. I was also quite pleased to see my tire pressure spot on where I want it at 62 PSI when I checked them all first thing this morning. No air pressure loss all winter surprised the heck out of me.

bpounds
Nomad
Nomad
A few comments...

I think Keystone uses the grey colored grease on everything. I usually assume the grey color means the grease has a good dose of Molybdenum. Mixing greases can be an issue, but it's pretty rare to have that issue. Just stick with a quality high temperature bearing grease. I always pick one that is good for disc brakes, because it is a high temp grease, even though it has drum brakes. My preference is to push out the old grease with the new grease, assuming this is an EZ Lube job. Sounds like your hubs are just fine, and you'll be good to go without adding grease.

That metal cover over the spindle is just cosmetic. First thing I do, first time I have the wheels off, is to take those off and toss them in a dark corner of the storage shed. You don't need them, they are always in the way, and the cheap chrome starts rusting and looking bad soon.

Not sure what you mean by a rubber cover over the lugs. That sounds like a hub cap on a truck. Your Cougar wouldn't have that as far as I know. My wheels look exactly like your pic, except that I have removed that chrome center cap.
2006 F250 Diesel
2011 Keystone Cougar 278RKSWE Fiver

Sport45
Explorer II
Explorer II
Don't sweat the color, it may well have been grey from the get-go.

The dust caps will be much easier to get to when the wheel is off (as it will be when you want to repack anyway).
โ€™19 F350 SRW CCLB PSD Fx4
'00 F250, CC SWB 4x2, V-10 3.73LS. (sold)
'83 F100 SWB 4x2, 302 AOD 3.55. (parked)
'05 GMC Envoy 4x2 4.2 3.73L.
'12 Edge 2.0 Ecoboost
'15 Cherokee Trailhawk

PokerCamper
Explorer
Explorer
So I got my first look under one of the rubber caps and the good news is that there is plenty of grease and it's very soft and pliable. Bad news is that it's a dark gray in color, but since I don't know if the previous owner used red grease, I don't know if that's a concern. My assumption is that quantity and texture trumps color, at least for the 1,500 miles we'll put on in this upcoming 2 week vacation. So I am considering waiting to do this when we get back when I have more time available. The other reason I want to wait is so I can pick up some spare rubber caps in case I damage one when removing it or if they're worn.


Here's the other issue which I'm filing under the heading "things are never as easy as you think they're going to be". This is a picture of the hub of my 2012 Keystone XLite 26SAB. Whereas all the videos I've seen about this have large removable dust covers over the lugnuts and the rubber cap, mine have this big metal housing around them and a little round pop-off dust cover (you can see the notch for prying off at 12:00) that's only slightly larger than the cap itself. So while pulling the rubber cap off to inspect the grease was relatively easy, trying to fit my fat fingers into the access hole to put the stupid thing back on was a struggle. It'll be a little easier with the RV jacked up a bit, but it's still going to be more of a pain than it needs to be if the dust covers were like the ones I've seen in the videos. (sigh)

So knowing that the former owner was meticulous about maintenance, and now that I've seen under one rubber cap and know there's plenty of soft grease, albeit dark gray in color, do you guys agree that I'm probably good for this trip a few days from now and can deal with it when we get back? After reading about some problems the EZ-lube hubs have, I'm also thinking about just getting what I need to pull the wheels off and packing the bearings manually anyway so I can also inspect them and the brakes as well. Seems like a good task to tackle in mid-October before the weather gets bad. The husband of one of my co-workers is also a mechanic so I can probably get him to help walk me through the process and get a pro's opinion on the brakes this first time so I know what to look for in the future.

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
Looks like they're made by the same company. Same exact bag, tire iron and extension rods.
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

PokerCamper
Explorer
Explorer
Hannibal wrote:
I don't know what GM uses but, both Ford and Dodge come with a screw type bottle jack that's perfect for this and you'll always have it with you. I put one of my leveling 2X6" boards under it. My axles are under the springs so I put the cup under one of the U-bolts. The long handle is easy to turn with the tire iron standing beside the trailer. Just a thought...

Thanks for the idea, I just found this video for how to lower the spare on a 2014 Silverado so I've got the same setup on my Sierra and can use this if I need to as well. ๐Ÿ˜„
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iM827I6snC8

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
PokerCamper wrote:
bpounds wrote:
The jack you have would work fine too. Just put it right under the leaf spring, directly under the U-bolts, and jack one wheel up at a time. No need to use the jack stands if all you are doing is pumping up the EZ Lube fittings. You won't be placing your body under anything, and you won't be removing the tire/wheel.

bpounds, I found this image on the rv.net forum and presume this is what you're describing. I'm a visual person and haven't yet crawled under my RV to take a look at the wheels, but apart from the fact that this shows a bottle jack instead of a floor jack, I'm guessing this is the correct way to do it?



I thought about using the Trailer Aid ramp this first time for the very reason you mentioned, to get practice with it in case of roadside need (have read too many posts about Chinese bomb tires). But in case I find it too much of a PITA, I might just use the jack on the other side once I've gotten some practice positioning the RV on the ramp.


I don't know what GM uses but, both Ford and Dodge come with a screw type bottle jack that's perfect for this and you'll always have it with you. I put one of my leveling 2X6" boards under it. My axles are under the springs so I put the cup under one of the U-bolts. The long handle is easy to turn with the tire iron standing beside the trailer. Just a thought...
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
PokerCamper wrote:
Thanks everybody for all the help. I'm planning to do this on Saturday and looking forward to learning something new about my RV. ๐Ÿ™‚


Roll the wheel and pump slowly. Too fast can force grease past the rear seal. You'll feel the resistance. Let it go in easy.
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

Hannibal
Explorer
Explorer
Count me in on the bearing neglector side. I repacked the bearings on our previous Eagle 5th wheel as the grease looked thick on inspection. On our current seven year old Jag, the grease is still soft and red with a quick peek behind the rubber cap. Just the same, I'll probably pull the hubs and repack this winter when it's cool and sunny here in Tampa.:B
2020 F250 STX CC SB 7.3L 10spd 3.55 4x4
2010 F250 XLT CC SB 5.4L 5spdTS 3.73
ex '95 Cummins,'98 12v Cummins,'01.5 Cummins,'03 Cummins; '05 Hemi
2017 Jayco 28RLS TT 32.5'

PokerCamper
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks everybody for all the help. I'm planning to do this on Saturday and looking forward to learning something new about my RV. ๐Ÿ™‚