lowering suspension, raising trailer.

[ryhed]

I have a 2001 coachman catalina. When hooked to my truck I have about 7" between the rails and the camper. The trailer sits nose high. I can lower my hitch 1 more notch and adjust the pin box but I would rather not. My leaf spring perches on the trailer have three holes on each end and one in the center where they meet. The leafs are set on the top positioning holes and i'm thinking if I drop them down two holes and one in the center it will level the trailer. Anyone have or know where a video of this procedure is? Any pro's, cons to doing this? As far as I can tell it came from the factory where it is set now, no axle flip or anything like that. I know I can do this but it is always helpful for me to see it done first, i'm a visual learner.

[Texas_Two_Stepp]

After looking at the picture I have changed my mind as far as my advice goes. It appears that you are 6-8 inches (or more) nose high and that is an awfully lot IMO. If you put drive it a lot I would agree with an earlier post an consider moving the springs to the top of the axle. That should give you about 5 inches and then you could tweak it with your hitch/pin adjustments. The first thing I would do is determine exactly how nose high you are over the length of the trailer and report back to this thread.
I had to move the springs on my 05 Alfa to match it with an 11 Duramax. It cost me about $400. at the local frame shop. I think it actually pulled better afterward.

[Beaker]

...then move spring eye down one hole in shackles

IF you have equalizers, it will put axles out of plane.

[Old-Biscuit]

Leave the pin box/hitch were it is.

Jack trailer up via frame to unload suspension then move spring eye down one hole in shackles....should raise trailer 2-3". That's what the extra holes are for.
(I removed tires, used a bottle jack to control axle and did one side at a time)

I did mine 5 yrs. ago to level rig and maintain bedrail clearance...worked great.
Also installed 'wet' bolt kit at same time

[larry_barnhart]

I seem to think you would be too close to the rear of the truck. I do not like the looks of doing what I am going to tell but maybe the best thing is doing the axle change to have the spring over the axles. The fifth looks on the low side . Just a thought.
chevman

[ryhed]

Ok, I was worrying over nothing, the hitch can move down two slots. The toolbox sits almost 10" over the bedrail. I'm gonna drop it one notch and see if I like how it sits. 4 bolts should take no more than 15 minutes.

[ryhed]

Chucking and rear axle overload were my concerns.

[ryhed]

After studying this picture, it appears I may be able to lower the hitch. I did not measure it but if you look at the relation of the nose to my toolbox, I may have more like an 8" spread. Which wouldn't be bad for back country trails. I did scrape my rear level jack when pulling into the storage lot though, it had an angle like this (/) more like 3:30 on a clock but you get the idea, it's steep.

[Texas_Two_Stepp]

This may not answer your question, but here is my input. My rig is about 2-3 inches nose high with 8" of clearance. I have around 6K on each axle and well within the axle rating on each axle. My pin weight is also good.
You have 7" clearance which is good. 6" is usually the accepted minimum. If you are ok on your weights i wouldn't worry about it.
How nose high are you and what is your concern?

[agesilaus]

It will be a LOT easier to adjust the hitch and or pinbox. While not all that difficult moving the leaf springs will be a lot more work.