My first rear kitchen - drawer and cabinet latches?

[Njmurvin]

I have a new to me Arctic Fox 27-5L and it's my first rear kitchen model. The previous owner installed some eye bolts top and bottom of the drawer bay and stretched a bungee across them. I don't like that method because the metal ends of the bungee rub against the soft cabinet wood. I could pad it somehow but I'd prefer to use cabinet latches or child safety latches. What do other rear kitchen owners use? Same for cabinet doors. This model has a HUGE pantry. It won't come too far open because it's behind the slide when the slide is in. But I'd prefer that door stay closed as well.

[okiejoe]

I have a rear kitchen and solved all issues with a MorRyde IS suspension, rides smooth and rarely anything moves.

[RollandB]

We have the same model you have and it's our second rear kitchen. We have had issues with kitchen drawers or doors opening while traveling. Our AF is a 2016 and comes with roller catches on all doors and drawers. If yours has them some could be losing their tension (just a thought). In out AF we have had bedside drawer on the side slide come open, thankfully we check slide clearance before we extend them.

[ford_coupe]

we used to have same problem on '98 Dutchman-used a wood dowel thru the handles-problem solved

[WeBeFulltimers]

Njmurvin wrote:
I have a new to me Arctic Fox 27-5L and it's my first rear kitchen model. The previous owner installed some eye bolts top and bottom of the drawer bay and stretched a bungee across them.

I would bet my lunch money that the previous owner also wears a belt AND suspenders at the same time!

We have full timed in our 2012 Montana 3585SA that is a rear kitchen and have NEVER had a drawer or cabinet come open and have NEVER had anything broken. We love our rear kitchen. Lots of counter space and cabinets.

[Gearitis]

tvman44 wrote:
I don't use anything extra on the cabinets of our rear kitchen. Never needed it.

Same here, never had to secure, but If I needed to secure, I would just use those bungee cords with a ball and go from there.

[Njmurvin]

OP here. Yes, my AF has shocks. The only drawer that came open on the 2 hour trip home from the dealer was the one under the sofa. But, everything was empty. So, I don't think that counts. Baby latches came to mind at first. But, then you have to deal with them all the time. I guess that's why the previous owner used the bungee. I'll check out the 10lb pull latches. Those sound interesting.

Regarding the pantry door that hides behind the slide, I intend to make checking that a part of my routine for opening the slide. I'll use my labelmaker to create a label and put it right under the slide switch as a reminder.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

[path1]

See you have an AF, did it come with shocks?

Yes, should of came with shocks, but don't know how big of difference they make. If Op doesn't has shocks maybe that a good place to start?

[Nutinelse2do]

rhagfo wrote:

tvman44 wrote:
I don't use anything extra on the cabinets of our rear kitchen. Never needed it.

X2

Once in a great while a drawer will open, likely because I didn't shut correctly.

X3

[rickeoni]

I have a rear kitchen and a rear drawer slid open once on a very rough road. Fridge has always been fine as well.

Before you change anything, try a trip without any bungees and see what happens.

[rhagfo]

path1 wrote:
IMO not all towable with rear kitchen have the same problem. But I I know we do. We're getting better and better, not perfect but getting better every trip.

Stuff in cabinets...We were tried of stuff falling out. Wife asked someone who delivers wedding cakes in a van what they used. Lady showed her this http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAI Works better than regulator store bought but still not perfect. See if there is anything more "commercial" grade before you order. It was "duck" brand she got but wife says they have even better stuff than link above but I can't find it.

Fridge...Shelves fell down twice. Asked just last week and somebody suggested vinyl tubing on loose fridge racks. Verdict is still out but from Orange county CA to Redwoods in northern CA problem seems to be fixed. http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28869554.cfm

Drawers and cabinets...Still looking for better ideas than what I've seen so far...right now I'm using Staples big rubber bands. I'm leaning towards using a "barrel lock" and drill a small hole in drawer so it can still slid out. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Barrel-Bolt-15142/202033904

And something to think about...I didn't have as big of problem until I upgraded my tires from load range D to E and run them max air pressure (80). I also get a better ride with a full water tank.

See you have an AF, did it come with shocks?
We added shocks to our Copper Canyon after hitting a pavement buckle (AKA Speed Bump) at 45 and wiping out the door shelves in the refer! Since then bumps don't bother the stuff! I also only run 70 psi in the LT 235/85-16 tires. Axle weight 9,500# tires rated 3,042# ea. 12,164# tire capacity don't need max inflation, inflated for load gives max TRACTION!

[azjeffh]

bdpreece wrote:
I have two large drawers that kept coming open. I installed 10lb latches and no more problems RV Designer H316 Black Push Latch

Agree, had these in my Savoy rear kitchen. In 11.5 years never had an issue with drawers opening.

Southco manufactures these and you need to be careful to get the 10 lb pull rather than the 5 lb.

[Alabama_Jim]

We use child safety latches and it works fine.

[Trackrig]

You'll notice that your doors with the heavier loads will pop open first because of the shifting mass. We had this problem, didn't really find one latch any better than the other. The best thing we found was to install two latches on most of the doors. And keep the screws tight or they'll strip out.

Bill

[path1]

IMO not all towable with rear kitchen have the same problem. But I I know we do. We're getting better and better, not perfect but getting better every trip.

Stuff in cabinets...We were tried of stuff falling out. Wife asked someone who delivers wedding cakes in a van what they used. Lady showed her this http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1100731-Non-Adhesive-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAI Works better than regulator store bought but still not perfect. See if there is anything more "commercial" grade before you order. It was "duck" brand she got but wife says they have even better stuff than link above but I can't find it.

Fridge...Shelves fell down twice. Asked just last week and somebody suggested vinyl tubing on loose fridge racks. Verdict is still out but from Orange county CA to Redwoods in northern CA problem seems to be fixed. http://forums.woodalls.com/index.cfm/fuseaction/thread/tid/28869554.cfm

Drawers and cabinets...Still looking for better ideas than what I've seen so far...right now I'm using Staples big rubber bands. I'm leaning towards using a "barrel lock" and drill a small hole in drawer so it can still slid out. http://www.homedepot.com/p/Everbilt-2-1-2-in-Zinc-Plated-Barrel-Bolt-15142/202033904

And something to think about...I didn't have as big of problem until I upgraded my tires from load range D to E and run them max air pressure (80). I also get a better ride with a full water tank.