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Residential refrigerator upgrade

filrupmark
Explorer
Explorer
We have a 8 cu.ft Dometic refrigerator . DW does not like it!!! We are thinking of a 10 cuft Magic Chef or a Frigidaire. I have measured and the change looks pretty simple. I currently have a 1000 watt inverter with dual Deka AGM's and will upgrade if needed. We rarely dry camp. I do have the Honda 2000 twins if needed. I was wondering who has made the change and how they like it.
2004 Ford F250 Super Duty 6.0 Diesel, Bilstein 4600 Shocks, 16K B&W Patriot, Michelin M&S
2014 Augusta Flex AF34RS Trailair Tri Glide pinbox,
JT Strong Arms , Bridgestone R250'S, KYB Monotube Gas shocks
Finally a smooth ride !!!
10 REPLIES 10

neschultz
Explorer
Explorer
Sunnysidebeach wrote:
We have a travel trailer, but we're looking at a 5th Wheel. Those with the residential fridge, have shelving that is not designed to hold items in place while traveling down the road. Since we plan on traveling, and not staying in one park for extended periods of time, residential fridge would not work for us.


Is that a new feature on RV refrigerator shelves? None Iโ€™ve ever had, including our current 2017, had anything to hold items in place traveling down the road. I have used aftermarket spring loaded bars but could get them for a residential fridge also.
Norman & Janet with Minnie the Weiner Dog
2005 SunnyBrook 38 BWQS 5th Wheel (stationary in FL for snowbirding)

Sunnysidebeach
Explorer
Explorer
We have a travel trailer, but we're looking at a 5th Wheel. Those with the residential fridge, have shelving that is not designed to hold items in place while traveling down the road. Since we plan on traveling, and not staying in one park for extended periods of time, residential fridge would not work for us.

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
neschultz wrote:

If you are looking at the Magic Chef model HMDR1000BE, the specs say it needs a 15 amp circuit. I havenโ€™t been able to find the actual run/start current draw yet but if it truly needs 15 amps, you need at least an 1800 watt inverter. And Iโ€™ve read that most of the newer residential models require a pure sine wave.

Motors (like the compressor in a refrigerator) run better on pure sine wave inverters.

If the owners manual say it need a dedicated 15A circuit in your house (very hard to believe on even larger refrigerators), I would get a GOOD 2000W inverter.

theoldwizard1
Explorer II
Explorer II
I think you will find a 1000W inverter marginal at best. But if you rarely boondock and always carry "Honda 2000 twins" I would not wast time or money trying to upgrade the batteries or inverters.

If you are boondocking, just remember NOT to open the refrigerator after the generator is turned off. With the doors closed your should be good for 8-12 hours. Your ice cream might get a bit soft !

neschultz
Explorer
Explorer
We are thinking of the same thing. We want to change to a larger unit (swap our 6 cu ft for the 10.1 cu ft Magic Chef). Our door opening is 24 1/4โ€ so we canโ€™t fit anything larger than the 10 cubic foot ones in there.

If you are looking at the Magic Chef model HMDR1000BE, the specs say it needs a 15 amp circuit. I havenโ€™t been able to find the actual run/start current draw yet but if it truly needs 15 amps, you need at least an 1800 watt inverter. And Iโ€™ve read that most of the newer residential models require a pure sine wave. The manual to this states that it is not designed to be used on an inverter.

They also state that this model only works when the ambient temp is 50 to 85 degrees F so it wonโ€™t work outside of those temps when on the inverter.

We are going to use ours mostly to stay in FL for 4 months each year, so running on 12 volts or outside the temp range is not important for us.
Norman & Janet with Minnie the Weiner Dog
2005 SunnyBrook 38 BWQS 5th Wheel (stationary in FL for snowbirding)

mhardin
Explorer
Explorer
SidecarFlip wrote:
ScottG wrote:
You can also convert your existing fridge to an energy efficient AC or DC compressor cooling unit.
JC refridgeration


Not with them that I can see.... Try West Marine instead.


It looks like you can. Scroll down the Products Page.

Dang! I might make this conversion myself.......
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2014 Heartland Elkridge 37 Ultimate.

Paul_D_
Explorer
Explorer
We are semi permanent on a seasonal site w/ metered electricity. Switched our dometic dc/ propane for an apt sized residential unit. Tripleed the space inside and or bill during a/c cooling months has dropped from the mid $90 range into the low 30s. Keep better temps, we love it. I was a win / win for us based on operating efficiency and gained capacity. The saving this season alone more than paid for the swap out.

SidecarFlip
Explorer III
Explorer III
ScottG wrote:
You can also convert your existing fridge to an energy efficient AC or DC compressor cooling unit.
JC refridgeration


Not with them that I can see.... Try West Marine instead.
2015 Backpack SS1500
1997 Ford 7.3 OBS 4x4 CC LB

Sandia_Man
Explorer II
Explorer II
Your 1K watt inverter and dual battery setup should do the trick while driving to your next destination, many rigs that come from the factory with a residential fridge are equipped with a similar sized inverter. When RVing off the power grid adding a couple of extra batteries and sufficient solar should keep you from running your Hondas excessively.

Which type of fridge is better really boils down to personal preference and the kind of RVing you do most. Since we prefer and predominately do most of our RVing off grid, and the fact our Dometic has performed marvelously over the last dozen years, even under extreme weather conditions, our next new rig will have a four door absorption fridge.

ScottG
Nomad
Nomad
You can also convert your existing fridge to an energy efficient AC or DC compressor cooling unit.
JC refridgeration