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screws on gas spring stripped

EgorKC
Explorer
Explorer
Our outdoor kitchen door is held open by 2 60 lb. gas springs from the factory (2012 unit). When I opened it this weekend one of the 2 came off where it attaches to the door panel (the wood under the panel liner does not seem damp or crumbling due to wetness). I tried gluing a couple toothpicks into the holes, allowing to dry over night and reinstalling screws. They came out after 1st use. I will likely try that approach 1 more time using a better glue and wood however the chance of that working is slim. I can make a larger plate to rivet the bracket to and screw that in and have read other forums where that worked. Does anyone have other options besides a thru bolt which is unsightly.
Thanks for your insight.
Greg
You cannot stop growing old but you don't have to grow up. ๐Ÿ™‚
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11 REPLIES 11

EgorKC
Explorer
Explorer
IBcarguy wrote:
Make sure the gas support isn't bent or binding. If it binds up it'll tear the screws out when opening the door.


I'm replacing both gas shocks since they are 5+ years old and get lots of use.
You cannot stop growing old but you don't have to grow up. ๐Ÿ™‚
Chef/Pilot
DW/Navigator
2 Sons, 1 DIL, 3 Grandsons, 1 Granddaughter. Boz the cat:)
2012 F350 XLT 6.7 Powerstroke 4X4 SWD Crewcab.
2012 Wildcat 313RE-OK

IBcarguy
Explorer
Explorer
Make sure the gas support isn't bent or binding. If it binds up it'll tear the screws out when opening the door.

EgorKC
Explorer
Explorer
Thanks all. I think I'll try the larger screw and then move to epoxy option if need. That will still leave the larger plate as a 3rd option.
I really appreciate the experienced answers.
Greg
You cannot stop growing old but you don't have to grow up. ๐Ÿ™‚
Chef/Pilot
DW/Navigator
2 Sons, 1 DIL, 3 Grandsons, 1 Granddaughter. Boz the cat:)
2012 F350 XLT 6.7 Powerstroke 4X4 SWD Crewcab.
2012 Wildcat 313RE-OK

mhardin
Explorer
Explorer
This is a job for an epoxy glue, not your regular wood glues. Try filling the hole with epoxy, then add toothpicks or matchsticks. Wait for the filled hole to harden. Re-drill the holes slightly smaller than the screws, fill the new holes with epoxy, replace the screws and wait for the epoxy to setup. I've done this with awning brackets with good results.
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WILDEBILL308
Explorer II
Explorer II
EgorKC wrote:
WILDEBILL308 wrote:
I would try the next size (in diameter) screw and see if it will hold.
Bill


Thanks Bill. I am familiar with that option as I have been in the fastener biz for 28 years. The reason I am reluctant is the base wood they use in these doors is so poor that I fear it stripped to a point I would need to go 2 sizes up and that would require drilling the bracket. That bracket is already small as it is. Attaching to a larger plate and using more screws mighty be the option I have to go with.


I would try using the larger screw then if it doesn't hold go with the wooden dowel repair. I have done this. Use a hardwood dowel. they have some for pegging boards together that have grooves in them to hold the glue.
I repaired the holes in the bottom of the table where the leg attaches using epoxy glue to fill the old holes and re drill a pilot hole for the screw. It was almost a taped hole and still holding.
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Vvvv1010
Explorer
Explorer
Google "J-B Weld" products for wood. This is a filler and epoxy that can be used on your outdoor counter top. Available at Wal-Mart. Mix the two tubes together fill the screw holes and let cure for a few days. Drill holes with a small bit and then hand screw hardware and reattach the arms.
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Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Could be a problem with 60lb gas springs I reckon. I can't speak first hand in this application, but should be worth a shot. Let it set up overnight before you try it.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
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EgorKC
Explorer
Explorer
Walaby wrote:
Or, consider drilling a slightly larger hole, and try gluing a wooden dowel into the hole... trim it flush. A bit more wood for the screw to bite.

Mike


Thanks Mike. Saw that approach in my research and it is the best option without adding a larger plate. Might try it but the dowel wood is so much denser I wonder if the plug would pull out with the screw. Titebond and Gorilla Glue are both great but only as strong as the base wood they stick to. Do you have any experience with that working in plywood or chipboard?
Greg
You cannot stop growing old but you don't have to grow up. ๐Ÿ™‚
Chef/Pilot
DW/Navigator
2 Sons, 1 DIL, 3 Grandsons, 1 Granddaughter. Boz the cat:)
2012 F350 XLT 6.7 Powerstroke 4X4 SWD Crewcab.
2012 Wildcat 313RE-OK

EgorKC
Explorer
Explorer
WILDEBILL308 wrote:
I would try the next size (in diameter) screw and see if it will hold.
Bill


Thanks Bill. I am familiar with that option as I have been in the fastener biz for 28 years. The reason I am reluctant is the base wood they use in these doors is so poor that I fear it stripped to a point I would need to go 2 sizes up and that would require drilling the bracket. That bracket is already small as it is. Attaching to a larger plate and using more screws mighty be the option I have to go with.
You cannot stop growing old but you don't have to grow up. ๐Ÿ™‚
Chef/Pilot
DW/Navigator
2 Sons, 1 DIL, 3 Grandsons, 1 Granddaughter. Boz the cat:)
2012 F350 XLT 6.7 Powerstroke 4X4 SWD Crewcab.
2012 Wildcat 313RE-OK

Walaby
Explorer II
Explorer II
Or, consider drilling a slightly larger hole, and try gluing a wooden dowel into the hole... trim it flush. A bit more wood for the screw to bite.

Mike
Im Mike Willoughby, and I approve this message.
2017 Ram 3500 CTD (aka FRAM)
2019 GrandDesign Reflection 367BHS

WILDEBILL308
Explorer II
Explorer II
I would try the next size (in diameter) screw and see if it will hold.
Bill
2008 Newmar Mountain Aire
450 HP CUMMINS ISM
ALLISON 4000 MH TRANSMISSION
TOWING 2014 HONDA CRV With Blue Ox tow bar
A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
-Mark Twain