Sep-06-2014 03:29 PM
Sep-07-2014 10:22 AM
Sep-07-2014 09:15 AM
Sep-07-2014 09:02 AM
Sep-07-2014 08:51 AM
John & Angela wrote:It depends upon the actual model which the poster did not specify. One model of the previously mentioned Samsung RF197 indicated it draws 15A at 120V which may well include the worse case scenario. But I gave the poster the formulas he can use for his application.CA Traveler wrote:rsbabson wrote:Never is that a good idea. The contents will warm up before they cool down in the warm refer and that is asking for bacteria problems.
Im looking to buy a Columbus 320rs with the residental fridge also. So you cant load the fridge up and roll down the road with your groceries?
Using a 300W refer draw for example you would need to supply 300W/12V = 25A so use 30A to allow for losses including the inverter. Your alternator may/may not have that extra capacity. Typically a truck and trailer wiring will not have the capacity to carry that amperage without significant voltage loss. One option is to have an inverter in the truck and run a 120V line back to the refer.
Almost any option includes a precooled refer. This also allows the refer to cycle on/off which reduces the overall power over a period of time. Plus once cooled you may be able to turn it off for a period of time while driving.
Your power usage estimate is off. Typically they draw about 1 amp at 120 volts. They will run for about 5 to 7 minutes and then cycle off for 10 to 12 minutes. No problem for an alternator in a truck. I agree with earlier comment insuring that the charge line to the trailer be of sufficient gauge. The running lights on the trailer will draw as much or more than the fridge.
Sep-07-2014 05:04 AM
Sep-07-2014 04:59 AM
Sep-06-2014 09:07 PM
CA Traveler wrote:rsbabson wrote:Never is that a good idea. The contents will warm up before they cool down in the warm refer and that is asking for bacteria problems.
Im looking to buy a Columbus 320rs with the residental fridge also. So you cant load the fridge up and roll down the road with your groceries?
Using a 300W refer draw for example you would need to supply 300W/12V = 25A so use 30A to allow for losses including the inverter. Your alternator may/may not have that extra capacity. Typically a truck and trailer wiring will not have the capacity to carry that amperage without significant voltage loss. One option is to have an inverter in the truck and run a 120V line back to the refer.
Almost any option includes a precooled refer. This also allows the refer to cycle on/off which reduces the overall power over a period of time. Plus once cooled you may be able to turn it off for a period of time while driving.
Sep-06-2014 08:48 PM
rsbabson wrote:Never is that a good idea. The contents will warm up before they cool down in the warm refer and that is asking for bacteria problems.
Im looking to buy a Columbus 320rs with the residental fridge also. So you cant load the fridge up and roll down the road with your groceries?
Sep-06-2014 08:04 PM
Sep-06-2014 08:00 PM
Sep-06-2014 07:57 PM
cgaskins wrote:dan-nickie wrote:
YOur problem will not be travelling between RV parks, but your plan to leave the fridge on overnight to cool down before a trip. With only 2 batteries, it looks like 4-5 hours would be max before your batteries get discharged below a safe level.
Yeah, I am beginning to realize that.
Couple of other questions:
1) Will my alternator from my truck charge the batteries in my RV?
Yes
2) What if I use a small solar cell to trickle charge the batteries, I wonder if this will get me to my 18 to 20 hours of usage while in storage?
I don't know much about solar
3) I assume that the cooling of the fridge is the same no matter if it is on 110volt or 12volt right? Meaning that the compressor and cooling system operates the same.
Yes
Sep-06-2014 07:40 PM
Sep-06-2014 06:33 PM
Sep-06-2014 06:30 PM
Sep-06-2014 06:21 PM