Those that have used Anderson Ultimate Hitch

[davisenvy]

I'm in a dilemma between an Anderson Ultimate Hitch vs the regular FW hitch. Not trying to start which is better type thing. Has anyone had an Andersen and gone back to a regular hitch? I'm in a situation where the Andersen is too tall for my FW/ truck set up. They can convert the Andersen hitch for the flat bed to fit my truck, but it will cost me another $500 after I trade my current hitch back in. I have never towed with a regular hitch so this is why I'm asking.

Basically is the Andersen towing experience that much better to warrant the up grade, or pocket the $500 and look for a regular FW hitch on Craigs List.

[avvidclif1]

Have you hooked up to the trailer to see how much your TV drops? If not try it. It will probably drop more than you realize.

[davisenvy]

Chris, forgive my ignorance, but what are the jack plates?

My plan is to go down some in the front and up some with the leaf springs. This should get me pretty close to level.

[Me_Again]

If your trailer is 5" out of level front to back, it is not going to need 5" at the axles to level. Do the jack plates and check again. Chris

[davisenvy]

WTP-GC wrote:

davisenvy wrote:
I have the pinbox up as high as the FW will allow and I'm still towing nose high by 5 inches.

Soooooo.....
If you're 5 inches too high now and you're looking for dead level, then you're screwed. About the best you'll do with a traditional hitch is only going to get you about 3 inches nose high. A modified Andersen will get you close to dead 1-2 inches from dead level, but you're only going to have a little more than 1" clearance which is not enough.

I don't mean to sound harsh, but it sounds like your best bet is to raise the trailer.

How am I screwed? My thread was about hitch vs hitch towing characteristics. I fully understand my options on getting my FW level. Thanks for your input on the Anderson Ultimate Hitch.

[WTP-GC]

davisenvy wrote:
I have the pinbox up as high as the FW will allow and I'm still towing nose high by 5 inches.

Soooooo.....
If you're 5 inches too high now and you're looking for dead level, then you're screwed. About the best you'll do with a traditional hitch is only going to get you about 3 inches nose high. A modified Andersen will get you close to dead 1-2 inches from dead level, but you're only going to have a little more than 1" clearance which is not enough.

I don't mean to sound harsh, but it sounds like your best bet is to raise the trailer.

[davisenvy]

I have 8.5 inches between the bed rails and the under side of the FW. I'm going out this evening to drop the leaf springs to the lower hole bringing up my FW by 2 inches. I have the pinbox up as high as the FW will allow and I'm still towing nose high by 5 inches. I've been over on the Jayco Forum and those guys helped me implement a plan. It seems the Jayco Eagle HT comes from the factory pretty low compared to other FW's.
With the new hitch I'll be able to lower the front by 1 1/2, 2 11/16, or 3 3/4 inches. With the current hitch I have 8 1/2, 9 9/16, or 10 3/4 inches between the bed rails and the FW at the low, middle, and high setting on the hitch.

[IdaD]

Just make sure you have enough bedrail clearance with the lower hitch. On my Ram with my fifth wheel I wouldn't. I know you're leery of lifting your trailer but that might be the better solution in the long run.

[hbillsmith]

davisenvy wrote:
The dealer just came back with $200 off, so I'm only out $300 additional. I think I'm going to take it. I really like the ease of removal with the Andersen and it sounds like it would suite me best. The DW wouldn't go for the creaking, moaning, and wheezing. I do enough of that without the FW.

Jeff, I understand the need to bring down the nose of your fiver to get it to tow level and I understand your height measurements from truck bed to 5er pinbox. I have a thought I wonder if you have considered. When you ultimately get the hitch (Andersen or other) that provides the bed to pinbox height you are looking for, what about the clearance for your truck bed rails. As you make turns, that pinbox will swing left and right. If you are able to drop it down lower into the confines of your truck bed, you should then address the pivot point and length of the pinbox. You don't want to make a 90deg or less turn and have the butt end of that pinbox collide with the sides of your truck bed.

Hope that's clear for you. It was something I had to deal with when planning my implementation.

[csamayfield55x]

kennethwooster wrote:
I have not used the Anderson but have used around 5 other brands. My favorite is the B&W. By far the easiest to hook too, and no chucking.. Very simple hitch and the easiest hooking and unhooking hitch I've ever used. Sounds like the Anderson is also simple.

While I don't have one, I have installed one in my FIL's truck and towed his. I think it is a great setup. Smooth as glass easy to turn and provides tons of clearance. His is coupled with a Mor-Ride pinbox and it is just great. I do tow a gooseneck 5er so the experience is very similar.

I have never heard of anyone going back to a standard hitch after an Andersen. Not that it has not happened but not that I have heard.

Chris

[kennethwooster]

I have not used the Anderson but have used around 5 other brands. My favorite is the B&W. By far the easiest to hook too, and no chucking.. Very simple hitch and the easiest hooking and unhooking hitch I've ever used. Sounds like the Anderson is also simple.

[davisenvy]

The dealer just came back with $200 off, so I'm only out $300 additional. I think I'm going to take it. I really like the ease of removal with the Andersen and it sounds like it would suite me best. The DW wouldn't go for the creaking, moaning, and wheezing. I do enough of that without the FW.

[minnow]

The Curt hitches start at 13". They are the only one's I found that have that start with that low of an adjustment. The others I've looked at are 15 1/2 and up at the lowest adjustment point. Without knowing how much the rear of the truck will drop after the pinbox is dropped on the hitch, it makes it darn difficult to know what to do. Measuring my 2016 Ram 3500 and having the fifth wheel level, it looks like I have 13 1/2 - 13 3/4 from the bottom of the bed to the top of kingpin. It's a heck of a thing to drop $700 + to find out the hitch you bought will not tow the RV level or provide the bed rail clearance needed.

[DirtyOil]

davisenvy wrote:
I'm in a dilemma between an Anderson Ultimate Hitch vs the regular FW hitch. Not trying to start which is better type thing. Has anyone had an Andersen and gone back to a regular hitch? I'm in a situation where the Andersen is too tall for my FW/ truck set up. They can convert the Andersen hitch for the flat bed to fit my truck, but it will cost me another $500 after I trade my current hitch back in. I have never towed with a regular hitch so this is why I'm asking.

Basically is the Andersen towing experience that much better to warrant the up grade, or pocket the $500 and look for a regular FW hitch on Craigs List.

I use the Anderson UH and love it. After being laid off from the oil industry, I decided to haul/transport RVs this last winter. I had to as a requirement run with a sliding regular fifth wheel hitch. That thing clanked, croaked, wheezed, groaned and moaned. Both my dad and little brother use "conventional fifth wheel hitches" and they both do the same clanking, croaking, wheezing... I have a turn over ball and haul goose neck trailers when I was in the oil field, so the Anderson was best choice for both operation and convenience. I will continue to haul my own fifth wheel with the Anderson.

[davisenvy]

WTP-GC wrote:
Let me see if I understand the OP correctly:
You currently have an Andersen UH, but you need the lower version. For $500, they offered to "convert" your existing hitch. Or they're offering to give you some trade-in value on your existing hitch.

If that's the case, then here's my take on it. You're going to be hard pressed to find a good used hitch for less than $400 to $500 on CL. You can buy a brand new "decent" hitch for that.

But really, your problem is that you're riding too high in the first place. The Andersen is basically designed to be approx the same height as a traditional 5er hitch. So if you buy another hitch, I expect that you're still going to have the same issue. I own a regular 5er hitch for my other TV, and even at its lowest position, it still sits higher than my lowered Andersen UH

If I understand your situation correctly, you either need to invest in the lower version of the Andersen UH or perform one of the various trailer-lift procedures.

I need the lower version instead of my current steel version. I will be trading in my current hitch and giving $500 to boot towards the new lower hitch making it a total purchase of close to $1,000.

I am aware that my FW nose is high and is why I am switching hitches.
Anderson Ultimate hitch is not designed to be the same height as a regular FW hitch. The 3225 and the 3220 are designed for a pickup truck bed with a gooseneck ball. The Andersens lowest setting is 16 1/8 in. Most FW hitches start off around 14 in. Also, the coupler that goes on the pin box adds another 7/8 inch. That's 3 inches higher.

I am more interested about the towing characteristics between the two. This is my first FW and I have never towed with a regular fifth wheel hitch. Thanks for your input though.

[WTP-GC]

Let me see if I understand the OP correctly:
You currently have an Andersen UH, but you need the lower version. For $500, they offered to "convert" your existing hitch. Or they're offering to give you some trade-in value on your existing hitch.

If that's the case, then here's my take on it. You're going to be hard pressed to find a good used hitch for less than $400 to $500 on CL. You can buy a brand new "decent" hitch for that.

But really, your problem is that you're riding too high in the first place. The Andersen is basically designed to be approx the same height as a traditional 5er hitch. So if you buy another hitch, I expect that you're still going to have the same issue. I own a regular 5er hitch for my other TV, and even at its lowest position, it still sits higher than my lowered Andersen UH.

If I understand your situation correctly, you either need to invest in the lower version of the Andersen UH or perform one of the various trailer-lift procedures.