Whats Your Real Weights? Truck and Trailer. The Real Deal

[juzplanekrazy]

I don’t know if it’s been done before or not but I was thinking about keeping a running list of real truck weights by year and type, and trailer weights by brand, size and what the total combined weight is of each guys rig. I was hoping the info would be a help for guys wondering about what the real weights are for a certain type of truck and to keep track of the more popular brand 5th wheel trailers. Another thing that will come out of it will be to see just how many guys really know what they are towing and if they know what their weight capacities are.
I’m sure it will take some time to compile a list and it will grow as guys add there info but I’m hoping it will help the newer guys in the long run to be directed back over to this thread in the future.
I’ll keep the TV lists to mainly the big 3 and from ¾ ton and up and I’ll try to keep the 5ers in a group by real GVW, length, and then manufacture. Any ideas are welcome as long as it makes things easier. And only real information can be given, so no guessing allowed. Only guys that have scaled there rigs or are totally certain of the weights.
Let’s see if I can keep the format real simple to type down and that will make it simpler for guys to refer back to and to keep track of.
Here we go……

TV - 2006 Dodge Mega Cab 3500 4x4, real scaled weight with full fuel, hitch, DH-DW and misc. gear = 7,500lbs. TV GVWR is 10,200lbs
5ver – KZ New Vision TH 38ft 14,500lbs loaded GVW. GVWR is 18,000lbs
Normal running TV & TH GCW weight= 22,500lbs, TV GCWR is 23,000lbs
Real Wet Pin Weight=2,950lbs

[DW-gray]

rvdreamer17 wrote:
Hello new member and potential new 5er. My question is this. My Ford F250 SD SC 4x4 is rated for a 5th wheel hitch trailer of 14k. How do the professionals and experienced 5ers feel about maxing such vehicle weight or should I be trying to stay below by say 10 to 20% not to beat up the truck??? My thinking is stay below and lower maintenance and wear and tear. Am I wrong and please help lead me the right way. Don't trust the RV Sales guys lol H E L P Please

The tow rating from the book is true for the base truck without any extra options added in. It does not include passenger weight over 150 pounds, the fifth wheel hitch or any cargo you carry. Therefore, it is very unlikely your realistic towing capacity is near 14K.

I recommend you use the RV Tow Check app to learn your truck's realistic towing capacity and then avoid buying a trailer with a GVWR exceeding the realistic towing capacity.

I don't have any problem maxing out the truck's ratings. All need to know realistically what their tow ready max ratings truly are.

[Cummins12V98]

rvdreamer17 wrote:
Hello new member and potential new 5er. My question is this. My Ford F250 SD SC 4x4 is rated for a 5th wheel hitch trailer of 14k. How do the professionals and experienced 5ers feel about maxing such vehicle weight or should I be trying to stay below by say 10 to 20% not to beat up the truck??? My thinking is stay below and lower maintenance and wear and tear. Am I wrong and please help lead me the right way. Don't trust the RV Sales guys lol H E L P Please

The trailer weight is only a part of the equation. At 20% pin and real easily 25% you will runout of payload.

[Cummins12V98]

rvdreamer17 wrote:
Hello new member and potential new 5er. My question is this. My Ford F250 SD SC 4x4 is rated for a 5th wheel hitch trailer of 14k. How do the professionals and experienced 5ers feel about maxing such vehicle weight or should I be trying to stay below by say 10 to 20% not to beat up the truck??? My thinking is stay below and lower maintenance and wear and tear. Am I wrong and please help lead me the right way. Don't trust the RV Sales guys lol H E L P Please

The trailer weight is only a part of the equation. At 20% pin and real easily 25% you will runout of payload.

[rvdreamer17]

Hello new member and potential new 5er. My question is this. My Ford F250 SD SC 4x4 is rated for a 5th wheel hitch trailer of 14k. How do the professionals and experienced 5ers feel about maxing such vehicle weight or should I be trying to stay below by say 10 to 20% not to beat up the truck??? My thinking is stay below and lower maintenance and wear and tear. Am I wrong and please help lead me the right way. Don't trust the RV Sales guys lol H E L P Please

[flyairam]

2006 Dodge SRW 3500, quad cab, short bed, 4x4, G56, 3.73, with 125 gallons of fuel aboard: Front Axle 4580, Rear Axle 3500, Gross Weight 8080.

With 2016 Arctic Fox 32-5M: All holding tanks full, full propane, Generator, aft carrying platform with spare 80 pound propane tank, all camping gear/tools, etc: Front Axle 4560, Rear Axle 7320, Trailer Axle 12,240, Gross Combined Vehicle Weight 24120.

Pin weight (minus SuperGlide hitch) 3620, Trailer Axles 12,240, Trailer Gross 15,860. Dumping the gray and black tanks will lighten gross weight by about 1,000 pounds.

Happy Travels,

Randy

[DW-gray]

Here is a page showing reasons to weigh the rig twice.
What are the Benefits of Weighing Twice?

[Cummins12V98]

New truck and RV in Sig.

Front 5,460

Rear 9,580

RV 17,500

Total 32,540#

[patriotgrunt]

Also fresh off a CAT scale with a full tank and the whole family loaded up on vacation:
5140 on the steer axle
6060 on the drive axle
9800 on the trailer axles
21000 gross weight

Ford F250 pulling a Sandpiper 357 TRIP

[boshog]

I just went through the Cat Scales,
4880 on the steer axle
6680 on the drive axle
10560 on the trailer axles

22120 gross weight.

RAM 3500 pulling a Montana 3790RD.

[Curlida]

As some may know by now,my wife and I just purchased our first Fifth, ( we are true newbies) Montana 3711FL and in May purchased Chevy Silverado 3500 short bed as TV with B and W gooseneck with20k companion hitch and towed it two plus hours from dealer,and it performed better than expected. So when we get all set up I will be more than happy to provide weights.

[ryanbirch]

CenTex wrote:
No danger of being over weight with 12,000 lb. front axle and 20,000 lb. rear axle and 40,000 GCWR.

What a cool rig!! Very unique!

[benb21601]

From the CAT scale:::


Steer: 5200lb; fact rated 5600lb
Drive: 7680lb; fact rated 9375lb
Truck GVWR: 12880lb; fact rated 13025lb
Trailer: 14740lb; trailer fact rated 18k on axles, 19k total, truck factory rating 22600lb
GCWR: 27620lb; fact rated 30500

I wasnt able to unhook and weigh truck individual. im figuring total camper weight is around 18k. Hitch, wood and occupants should put truck to +/-9500.

Loaded, ready to camp numbers.
Rig in sig.

[R_-_E_W9]

Actual weights at local farm elevator
2002 Extended Cab GMC Duramax duly

Front axel, empty 4280 LBS, Loaded 4280 Change 0
Rear Axel, empty 3320 LBS, Loaded 6120 Change 2440
total 7600 10040
2014 Prime Time Crusader 325RES loaded

Trailer Axel weights, total 10400 LBS

Total rolling weight, 20440 LBS

[CenTex]

I carry a class A CDL. I have a couple of show trucks that I also take to truck shows around the country. While they are not commercial vehicles and are registered as antique vehicles there is always some guy that has a badge and a gun that will try and give you a hard time, so it is just easier to have the license when you may not actually not be required to have one. I have heard horror stories of guys with antique trucks getting hung up on scales or check points late at night and the having to wait until the next morning to see a judge just to be told that he was in the right and was free to go. There is a lot of ignorance and misunderstanding on the part of law enforcement people when it comes to antique trucks.

[C130]

djtytrev630 wrote:
TommySnake wrote:

How many of you that have a total of 26,001 lbs have a Class A license?
Texas states you must have a Class A if the item you are towing is greater than 10,000 and your combined GVWR is 26,001 lbs. Thoughts are welcome. How hard was the driving test.


CDL is administered by the Federal Motor Carrier Safety Administration (FMCSA)
FMCSA defines minimum requirements that all states must meet when issuing CDL's
States are free to define more stringent CDL rules
FMCSA regulations only address commercial motor vehicles (CMV)
RV's used strictly for recreational and other non-commercial functions do not meet the FMCSA definition of a CMV

RV's are looked at differently than CDL's!

I just got mine last week, nothing too difficult, just a pain in the butt to get it done. I did the written test one day and the driving portion the next day at a totally different location. It all went smooth but some of the written test questions can be kinda tricky. Study chapter 14 in the Texas Commercial Handbook. I studied all the Class A chapters that the study guide refers you to but I was told by the main office in Austin that Chapter 14 was all that was needed.

Biggest suggestion I'd give for the written is think of all the questions and answers as "commercial" which they are. There were a few questions poorly written in my opinion and some answers might be "trucks" but basically think of it as saying "commercial trucks". I don't know if that makes sense but if you do the written it might help. Driving portion was nothing too bad, just lots of exiting freeway and enter back to feeder, back to freeway, back to feeder. Lots of turning and stopping, only had to back straight up 60 feet or so. Both hands on the steering wheel, turn signals along with head movement, don't just rely 100% on the mirrors is what I was told.

I'll be glad to answer any questions if anyone in Texas is considering doing it. Oh yeah, make sure your trailer has current inspection. You can't renew your tags until it's been inspected within previous 90 days and they checked for it at the driving test.

I did the driving portion in Bryan, written in Conroe.