2001 E-450 front calipers siezed-what now?

[Holiday27]

First trip of the season and I noticed a rolling resistance and brake burning smell. Then I noticed the temp on the tire sensor climbing. Got up to 178! At that point they unsiezed and the temp dropped to normal, drag went away. I had planned to change out the brake fluid before we left but totally forgot, obvious bad move on my part.

Question is should I replace everything or just the fluid and front brake lines?

[j-d]

Brake got so hot it cooked the hose. Doesn't happen on only RV's, I fixed a Chevy Celebrity that happened to. But the parts were much less expensive. I think that one got away with calipers, rotors and hoses around $125

[k9-keno]

Long story short right front caliper was hung up. And then blew line lost all brakes in rush hour traffic. ( Ford e450 2001 31ft class c) No shoulder either!! Found a patch of grass and e braked and down shifted it to a stop. Smoke was coming out. Got towed to a 24 hour Ford truck repair shop which had all the part in stock. Few hours later left with New brakes rotors, calipers and bearings on both front wheels 850.00 and down the road!! Oh ya and a new set of underwear!!

[j-d]

^^^ It'll track better. Less correction to stay in the lane, better stability when trucks pass.

[Holiday27]

pauldub wrote:
Ryan, Have them set it for as much caster as possible when they do the alignment after putting it all back together.

Thanks for the tip. I've heard this discussed but I don't remember why. What is the advantage?

[pauldub]

Ryan, Have them set it for as much caster as possible when they do the alignment after putting it all back together.

[j-d]

Tire Man or Borg (Dually Valve).

For Dually Valve, Call Bill at Phone:(800) 300-2674 - Something wrong with webpage.

For Tire Man, This Page,and it has Chuck's phones at the lower right.

Anything less in valves is a wannabe solution.

Your rear brakes should be like CloudDriver's coach same model, chassis, year. He has a great step-by-step page on brakes. In that year, the E-350 might have rear disc brakes with sliding pin mounts. That would be very easy to inspect/change pads/calipers.

[fourthclassC]

Interesting discussion. My "new" rig (2003 Wini mini 24v E350) is the first one I have owned with rear disc brakes. I will be checking the rears when I take off the wheels to install ride rite air bags. This is also the first rig I have had with chrome hubcaps on the rear wheels. Currently no air valve extensions. What do you recommend for extensions with the fancy hubcaps.

[j-d]

Ron,

The 2008+ front disk bolts to the back of the hub like earlier ones, but I've never seen it sold separately

The 2008+ front wheel bearings are serviced like earlier ones. Clean, Pack, New Seals, Nut, Nut Keeper, Cotter Key the Dust Cap

If AutoZone's picture of Raybestos 68068 rear rotor is correct, the late model rotor is separated from the hub to replace.

I'm not aware that the rear brakes get replaced by the 4*4 conversion shops, so those of us with New front brakes still have Old rear brakes, and the Master Cylinder still works with new fronts.

BUT!!! Talking Rear brakes, the E350 DRW rear brake design differs from E450, at least in certain years. For one thing, the older E450's have the parking brake on the back of the transmission. E350 has parking brake shoes and so does the newer E450.

[snowdance]

One of the most common reasons for the front brakes locking up, or freezing up on the C class is the cab over bunk. Water, dew, AC water often drip on the front wheel and some splashes on the calipers. The front calipers have slides to let them work and it has grease on it. The water washes off the grease. Then the rust cause them to freeze up. Using front wheel covers will help. This applys to Ford, Chevy and Dodge. Most shops just replace the calipers instead of doing the service to them.

[ron_dittmer]

I have a couple questions on the brakes that were implemented in the 2008-2015 E350/E450.

1) For both the front and rear brakes, are the rotors a separate piece now like cars, or are they still one chunk of metal with the hub?

2) Are the hub bearings still serviceable with cotter pins and grease seals, or are they sealed bearings like other current-day vehicles?

[Capn_Dave]

If you remember I have the same model as you. Must be a things with brakes. It's the only thing except for the air bags, that have been replaced
I had a frozen caliper, it was the left front. Going through the Motor homes records it wasn't the first time. The PO had taken it to a Ford dealer to get repaired, it cost him $700. bucks for one. I replaced all four and my shop charged me $600. New lines,calipers, a new rotor, and three turned.

[Holiday27]

j-d wrote:
Oh, Lordy! DO IT!!!

I got my Kit from Quigley, so what QuadVan provides may be slightly different. I got ABS Sensors I did not need (late model uses a different plug), and had to buy my own Radius Arm Nuts/Bolts (from Ford) and Brake Hoses (Dorman brand from Amazon). Quigley sent me front shocks but I needed to get the upper mounting hardware. Lower was on the shocks.

Remember, you get "loaded" calipers. The pads will be included. New, bigger rotors of course, then the both whole axles and the updated radius arms. Be sure the Splash Pans are on the Axle Spindles.

Complete kit weighed 400-pounds, but the axles themselves are relatively light. Heaviest parts are Rotors. I did the whole project in my driveway without help.

Making an appointment with Quad van tomorrow for a new upgraded front end. For the price it just makes sense. With only 40k everything still seems pretty tight. Steering and road handling, especially with the heavy duty sways has been great. The biggest thing for me will be the bigger brakes and I think it will increase my carrying capacity. I plan on towing my Mini this summer and braking was my biggest concern.

Thanks guys for all the great advise. Much appreciated!!

[j-d]

Had that happen on a Ford F600 under a church bus. That bus had TWO of everything. Two cylinders per wheel, two hoses per wheel, two HydroVac boosters. Rusted bracket pinched both hoses to the left front wheel.

By the way, the hose Ron pictured has a "banjo" connection in the piece with the 90* bend. That's how the hoses connect on E-Series. New hose, or new/rebuilt caliper, comes with two copper washers. One goes between bolt head and hose, the other between hose and caliper. I called it a "bolt" but it's a special threaded fitting with fluid passages and a hex head.

Since E-Series has an ABS system, don't let the disconnected hoses drain the system. Ok to let it flow IF the Master Cylinder is kept full. Just don't let the ABS system get air-bound. It can require a tech with a special scanner to allow bleeding the system.

[ron_dittmer]

On some old winter-beaten cars I've worked on, the brake hose will get restricted from a metal clamp used to keep the hose in proper position. The clamp rusts and swells as rust often does, and squeezes the hose eventually restricting the flow of brake fluid.
Also, some old hoses get soft and swell inside eventually restricting the flow of brake fluid much in the same manner as those clamps.

I don't know of any years of the E-Series chassis uses crimped-on brake line fasteners, but if they do, then watch out for rusted hose clamps. Here is a random example.