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As requested, Red Max Pro instructions

4x4van
Explorer III
Explorer III
This has been posted before, but it tends to eventually get lost and covered up by newer posts. However, some have requested it again, so here it is. I do not recommend this for a newer MH with a good finish, or with full body paint and/or clearcoat that still shines and still responds well to waxes and polishes. This process is for older RVs that have lost their shine and no longer respond to conventional wax.


Restoring the finish of an older RV using Red Max Pro:

Materials:
-Red Max Pro (Step 3) Low Maintenance Floor Finish* (available only at Lowes, about $16)
-Bar Keeperโ€™s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white, fine)
- Microfiber rags (white or laundered)
-Latex gloves



* If you canโ€™t find Red Max Pro #3 at Loweโ€™s, Home Depot sells the same product under a different name for slightly more money. It is Zep Wet Look Floor Finish (Step 3), about $25. (Both are made by ZEP.)



Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the Red Max Pro acrylic coating, and improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.

Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the top down.

Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeperโ€™s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).

Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the Red Max to peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washerโ€ฆanything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part is done!

Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the Red Max Pro (RMP) well, and pour some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it into the RMP (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag. Donโ€™t try to apply a heavy coat or try to โ€œrub it inโ€; just wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really doesnโ€™t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles, and donโ€™t worry about overlaps; RMP is very thin/watery and you are just trying to โ€œmoistenโ€ the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. The thin coat of RMP will dry very quickly; long before youโ€™ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in some places, dull in othersโ€ฆdonโ€™t panic. Each additional coat will start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasnโ€™t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!

*Note: This procedure will slightly change/darken the color/shade of your RV.

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:

-Donโ€™t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.

-Donโ€™t try to โ€œover-applyโ€, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, youโ€™re just trying to โ€œmoistenโ€ the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are getting a lot of runs, youโ€™re applying it too heavily.

-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the RMP is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. RMP dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to โ€œset upโ€.

-Some older, deteriorated graphics may โ€œbleedโ€ color onto the rag and surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of RMP across the graphics prior to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the RMP to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The RMP acrylic coating can sort of โ€œglueโ€ them closed. ๐Ÿ™‚

-You can also do the window frames (avoid the glass) and other painted metal areas; in fact, I did my entire Class C cab since, like the rest of my RV, it was also very weathered and dull. Came out great!



Maintaining the Red Max Pro finish:

Now that your RV looks like it has a new, clear coated paint job, youโ€™ll want to maintain that new finish as long as possible, right? Well, good news. With Red Max Pro, thatโ€™s easy to do as well.

Most commonly used car wash soaps and mild detergents will not harm the Red Max Pro finish, so you can wash your RV as you always have. In fact, youโ€™ll probably find that it comes clean much easier than before, as dirt, bugs, and debris seems to โ€œfloatโ€ right off quite easily. You do want to avoid anything with Ammonia in it, such as some window cleaners, since ammonia will remove the Red Max Pro (think โ€œfloor stripperโ€). The tire cleaner spray at coin-op carwashes has also been shown to remove RMP. Minor scratches or blemishes in the RMP finish can be touched up easily with a quick coat or two of RMP. Do not apply wax, as wax will interfere with any โ€œtouch-upโ€ coats of Red Max Pro later on down the road, causing them to peel or flake.

And after 6 months to a year, if the finish starts to lose itโ€™s shine, just give the RV a good wash job, let dry completely, and then give the RV a quick touch-up coat or two of RMP, wiping it on just as you did originally.

Disclaimer: This procedure worked wonders on my weathered, oxidized RV, using the products and steps listed above, and I have no regrets. Hundreds, if not thousands, of others have also used RMP with similar results. A very few reports have surfaced claiming "yellowing" or "peeling", but most, if not all, of those have been attributed to improper surface prep. However, these products are admittedly not designed or marketed for use on the exterior of RVs, and I make no warranty regarding their use or the long-term effects on your RV. Use at your own risk.

A few final notes:

Some people have voiced concerns about the chemicals used in the prep stages. Bar Keeperโ€™s Friend (BKF) is similar to scouring powder, but much less abrasive. In fact, it is made for cleaning and polishing fiberglass. Used with the fine white 3M scouring pads, it is excellent for removing stains, oxidation, and chalkiness from fiberglass gelcoat without scratching.

Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) is indeed a very strong cleaner. While it works very well to remove wax from the RV, it can burn if mixed too strong or left on your skin too long. If you are not comfortable with the TSP, some have reported good luck using Dawn dish soap to remove the wax.

Ultimately, neither of these products (BKF, TSP) are required. What is required is to remove all stains, soiling, oxidation, chalkiness, and wax from the surface of your RV prior to applying Red Max Pro, and to make sure that it is rinsed well to remove any residue of what you DO use. Whatever methods you are comfortable with are fine, as long as they accomplish that.


If your RV still looks good, and still shines...then use a good quality wax. But if your RV has deteriorated and you are looking for a way to breathe new life into it, RMP is an option for you. Go ahead, Google it. Read up on it. Read about those who have actually used it. Then make your decision.
We don't stop playing because we grow old...We grow old because we stop playing!

2004 Itasca Sunrise M-30W
Carson enclosed ATV Trailer
-'85 ATC250R, '12 Husky TE310, '20 CanAm X3 X rs Turbo RR
Zieman Jetski Trailer
-'96 GTi, '96 Waveblaster II
51 REPLIES 51

larry_cad
Explorer II
Explorer II
Thanks for the update. I need to get this done, again. Last time was about 5 years ago!
Today is my personal best for most consecutive days alive.

Our Travel Blog

Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Explorer II
I've found the liquid a bit easier to use (call it portion control) than powdered.

For anyone considering using Red Max, or the replacement Zep, this works very well for weather beaten for gel coated fiberglass. If your rig is painted and clear coated stay with convention automotive materials and methods.

I've been using Zep for eight years on my 2006 coach with no yellowing, peeling, clouding or other problems. Each spring the exterior gets a detailed deep cleaning followed by a two or three light recoats and the exterior looks new again and will until next spring.

2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53

CHIEFTOM
Explorer
Explorer
I used this method to shine up a RV I had 10 years ago and remember it worked pretty good. We or at least my wife thought we were done with RV's at age 76 but I got the itch again so purchased this 2003 Rv to play around with and use for local trips. It definitely has dull fiberglass and needs to be shined up. Rv detailer's want $500 or more to compound and wax it so need a cheaper way to shine up this low budget project. I found some BKF in liquid form in the store, does anyone know if this works as well or better than the power? Appreciate the detailed instructions from this old post and hope it works as well as I remember it did last time I used it.

carl2591
Explorer III
Explorer III
more than 2 hrs i am guessing.. depends on how fast you can scrub with a micro fiber cloth is seems.

this is good info to keep around.. Hopefully I will be getting an Airstream next year so polishing will be a whole nother job.
Carl2591, Raleigh NC
2005 Airstream Classic 31D
2003 Ford F-250 SD, CC, 7.3L modded diesel machine
Every day is a new day with potential to be life changing.

Wishbone51
Explorer
Explorer
Haha.. yes. took me two hours (prep + wax) for my 6x12 cargo trailer. I shudder to think how much time it will take for my 27' TT.
2017 Jayco Jay Feather 25BH
2004 Nissan Titan

devildog1971
Explorer
Explorer
The prep is the hardest part of the job
2019 Northern Lite 10-2 EXCDSE Dry Bath 2007 G M C dually crew cab and 2018 Harley Davidson Limited Low

Scott___Jill
Explorer
Explorer
Wishbone51 wrote:
Just tried this trick (using ZEP) with my white cargo trailer. Wanted to use it as a guinea pig before I tried it on my TT. I have never seen this thing shine so bright, except when it was new. ๐Ÿ™‚ Can't wait to try it on the trailer.
it's been a while since this has been posted
This has been posted before, but it tends to eventually get lost and covered up by newer posts. However, some have requested it again, so here it is. I do not recommend this for a newer MH with a good finish, or with full body paint and/or clearcoat that still shines and still responds well to waxes and polishes. This process is for older RVs that have lost their shine and no longer respond to conventional wax.


Restoring the finish of an older RV using Red Max Pro:

Materials:
-Red Max Pro (Step 3) Low Maintenance Floor Finish* (available only at Lowes, about $16)
-Bar Keeperโ€™s Friend (powdered)
-TSP (Trisodium Phosphate, powdered)
-3M scrubbies (white, fine)
- Microfiber rags (white or laundered)
-Latex gloves



* If you canโ€™t find Red Max Pro #3 at Loweโ€™s, Home Depot sells the same product under a different name for slightly more money. It is Zep Wet Look Floor Finish (Step 3), about $25. (Both are made by ZEP.)



Preparing the surface is the most important part, since anything left on the surface will be sealed under the Red Max Pro acrylic coating, and improper prep can also result in peeling/flaking later. I repeat: The prep-work is the most important part! Do not try to cut corners here. The cleaner your RV is, the better your final results will be.

Step 1: Start by washing your RV well as you normally would, making sure to include the roof, and rinsing well from the top down.

Step 2: You now want to remove any and all stains, soiling, oxidation, and chalkiness from the surface. Dip a white 3M scrubbie into water and then liberally sprinkle Bar Keeperโ€™s Friend (BKF) on it. Scrub the surface of the motorhome, rinsing the scrubbie and re-applying the BKF often. Do small areas at a time, rinsing well with water and a sponge as you go (Rinsing well is important to remove all BKF residue. I used a "flow-thru" brush attached to a hose to rinse the BKF residue thoroughly).

Step 3: Next you want to make sure that there is absolutely no remaining wax on the RV, since any residual wax can cause the Red Max to peel and flake. Mix up a bucket of TSP (1/2 cup) in water (2 gal), and use it to wash the entire RV again. You can use it with a carwash brush, a sponge, a pressure washerโ€ฆanything you would normally use to wash your RV. Rinse well as you go, then rinse again and let it dry completely (again, rinsing well is important to remove all TSP residue). You should now be left with a clean and smooth (although dull) wax-free surface. Congrats, the hard part is done!

Step 4: Now comes the easy part. Shake the Red Max Pro (RMP) well, and pour some into a shallow container (a pie pan works well). Fold a microfiber rag to about hand-sized, dip it into the RMP (trust me, use gloves!), and squeeze out the excess. How much/how wet? You want it more than damp, but less than dripping. Now simply wipe down the surface of the RV with the wet microfiber rag. Donโ€™t try to apply a heavy coat or try to โ€œrub it inโ€; just wet the surface (imagine wiping off a layer of dust with a damp rag). It really doesnโ€™t matter whether you wipe horizontally, vertically, or in circles, and donโ€™t worry about overlaps; RMP is very thin/watery and you are just trying to โ€œmoistenโ€ the surface. Work your way all the way around the RV. The thin coat of RMP will dry very quickly; long before youโ€™ve gone all the way around it will be dry and you can immediately start on the next coat.

That first coat will likely look really bad; streaky, blotchy, shiny in some places, dull in othersโ€ฆdonโ€™t panic. Each additional coat will start to even it out and build up a deep layer of shine. By coat 3, you will be grinning ear to ear. And coat 4 (or 5?) will be the icing on the cake. Not only will your RV shine like it hasnโ€™t shined in years, it will be a deeper color as well*. Even old, faded graphics will have a new lease on life! All for less than $30 total!

*Note: This procedure will slightly change/darken the color/shade of your RV.

Things (I learned) to keep in mind:

-Donโ€™t use new colored microfiber rags until they have been laundered, as the color may bleed.

-Donโ€™t try to โ€œover-applyโ€, or try for a heavy coat, or you will get runs. The thinner, the better. Remember, youโ€™re just trying to โ€œmoistenโ€ the surface with each thin coat, nothing more. If you are getting a lot of runs, youโ€™re applying it too heavily.

-Be careful around window frames, locks, latches, etc., as the RMP is very watery and will have a tendency to gather and cause runs. RMP dries fast, so keep an eye out for any runs and give them a quick wipe before they start to โ€œset upโ€.

-Some older, deteriorated graphics may โ€œbleedโ€ color onto the rag and surrounding areas. If you notice any bleeding during the BKF or TSP stage (steps 2 and 3), then give a quick wipe of RMP across the graphics prior to step 4, which will seal them up. Then go ahead and apply the RMP to the entire RV (including the now sealed graphics) as per step 4 of the tutorial.

-After each coat, go around and open/operate all hatches, locks, catches, etc. The RMP acrylic coating can sort of โ€œglueโ€ them closed.

-You can also do the window frames (avoid the glass) and other painted metal areas; in fact, I did my entire Class C cab since, like the rest of my RV, it was also very weathered and dull. Came out great!



Maintaining the Red Max Pro finish:

Now that your RV looks like it has a new, clear coated paint job, youโ€™ll want to maintain that new finish as long as possible, right? Well, good news. With Red Max Pro, thatโ€™s easy to do as well.

Most commonly used car wash soaps and mild detergents will not harm the Red Max Pro finish, so you can wash your RV as you always have. In fact, youโ€™ll probably find that it comes clean much easier than before, as dirt, bugs, and debris seems to โ€œfloatโ€ right off quite easily. You do want to avoid anything with Ammonia in it, such as some window cleaners, since ammonia will remove the Red Max Pro (think โ€œfloor stripperโ€). The tire cleaner spray at coin-op carwashes has also been shown to remove RMP. Minor scratches or blemishes in the RMP finish can be touched up easily with a quick coat or two of RMP. Do not apply wax, as wax will interfere with any โ€œtouch-upโ€ coats of Red Max Pro later on down the road, causing them to peel or flake.

And after 6 months to a year, if the finish starts to lose itโ€™s shine, just give the RV a good wash job, let dry completely, and then give the RV a quick touch-up coat or two of RMP, wiping it on just as you did originally.

Disclaimer: This procedure worked wonders on my weathered, oxidized RV, using the products and steps listed above, and I have no regrets. Hundreds, if not thousands, of others have also used RMP with similar results. A very few reports have surfaced claiming "yellowing" or "peeling", but most, if not all, of those have been attributed to improper surface prep. However, these products are admittedly not designed or marketed for use on the exterior of RVs, and I make no warranty regarding their use or the long-term effects on your RV. Use at your own risk.

A few final notes:

Some people have voiced concerns about the chemicals used in the prep stages. Bar Keeperโ€™s Friend (BKF) is similar to scouring powder, but much less abrasive. In fact, it is made for cleaning and polishing fiberglass. Used with the fine white 3M scouring pads, it is excellent for removing stains, oxidation, and chalkiness from fiberglass gelcoat without scratching.

Trisodium Phosphate (TSP) is indeed a very strong cleaner. While it works very well to remove wax from the RV, it can burn if mixed too strong or left on your skin too long. If you are not comfortable with the TSP, some have reported good luck using Dawn dish soap to remove the wax.

Ultimately, neither of these products (BKF, TSP) are required. What is required is to remove all stains, soiling, oxidation, chalkiness, and wax from the surface of your RV prior to applying Red Max Pro, and to make sure that it is rinsed well to remove any residue of what you DO use. Whatever methods you are comfortable with are fine, as long as they accomplish that.


If your RV still looks good, and still shines...then use a good quality wax. But if your RV has deteriorated and you are looking for a way to breathe new life into it, RMP is an option for you. Go ahead, Google it. Read up on it. Read about those who have actually used it. Then make your decision.
1999 Pace Arrow 37s
F53 Triton V10 8 to 9 mpg 6 to 7 with toad

2005 Mazda 3 2.5 26 mpg

Wishbone51
Explorer
Explorer
Just tried this trick (using ZEP) with my white cargo trailer. Wanted to use it as a guinea pig before I tried it on my TT. I have never seen this thing shine so bright, except when it was new. ๐Ÿ™‚ Can't wait to try it on the trailer.
2017 Jayco Jay Feather 25BH
2004 Nissan Titan

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
If you are one of the lucky ones and it does not peel that is fine. Many people on this forum have used the floor wax and had it peel off and turn cloudy. Some have even tried to use the remover only to find it softened the paint underneath. Most will never use the Red Max interior floor wax on their coach again since it does not provide any ulta-violet protection to the surface underneath.

SandHunter
Explorer
Explorer
Oh. My. Goodness. This is the absolute best advice EVER!! My Husband just finished doing our 2009 Inferno and it looks better than the day we brought it home! The process was so easy and the finished product is AMAZING! We have kept our trailer waxed but even so, the side that gets all the sun was looking bad. My Hubs spent days buffing and waxing but couldn't restore the shine. He tried everything and was really discouraged. UNTIL I found this thread!! We are Happy Campers and I love my trailer again. A great big THANK YOU for this very detailed post!

michelle_diekma
Explorer
Explorer
OMG!!! Thank You for such care in providing such detailed instructions. It was JUST what I was looking for.
Your a very good person to take such time from your life to help out a 'newbie' like me.
I will take and use ALL of your advice.
Thank you again for being such a kind, helpful person. I hope to meet you on the trail sometime.

BIG BHUGS,
Michelle

GRNT
Explorer
Explorer
I used the Red Max 5 years ago on my 5th wheel trailer. I used all the steps suggested with Bar Keep and TSP. I put 4 coats on. It still looks just as good as it did when I put it on. The trailer is in the sun, snow and other elements. Prep is where you MUST make sure you do correctly. I just bought a 2007 motorhome with chalky, oxidized White fiberglass. I will be doing the RMP on this one now and plan to get the same results.

meesda
Explorer
Explorer
OK I have a question regarding RMP. I have to do a complete external makeover of our 2005 FW. I have purchase the Zeb wet floor. At what stage would you recommend caulking my windows??

My guess would be after the TSP just before applying RMP. If how long should I let the caulking cure before applying RMP.

Thanks

danthe
Dant
2006 Cruiser CF29BT
2008 GMC Sierra 2500 Ext Cab 6.0

ryanallie1
Explorer
Explorer
Hi All.

Ours looks as good as the day we put it on our Motorhome, and that was at least 3 years ago. Not even any touch up work is needed. "As Said" its all in the Prep Work. Good Luck. Happy Travels. Dan & Jill & Our Two "Yorkie Kids".
1998-34 ft Rexhall, Rexair SL. 460 EFI. F-53. 7.3 MPG. TST TPMS. HWH Levelers. 5.5G Gen. Convection/Microwave Water Purifier/Water Softner. 2 A/C's. Alarm Systems. Honda EU2000i's W/Kit. Steer-Safe. CR-V W/SMI System. FMCA #F414397 Nam-Vet, 66-67-68&70-71