base plate for toad is bent

[cdl2]

I'm towing a 2000 Chevy Tracker
I have Blue Ox base plate & tow bar.
The left side attachment tab is bent down
I have no idea how this happened
Any idea's how this happened & what I can do to fix it
I've contacted Blue Ox too
Thanks

[tropical36]

Effy wrote:

wildmanbaker wrote:

Effy wrote:

wildmanbaker wrote:
First, look ands see if there is any damage to the base plate. Is everything still straight and square? If it is slightly out of shape, can you align the holes that were drilled into the frame, by hand? .

Are you asking if you can bend and align the bent baseplate by hand?
I highly doubt you can bend a baseplate by hand and if you could how reliable is it to tow your car?

OP, just get a new one. Simpler, easier, and safer - for everyone.

Yes. The OP may not have money to burn. We as a nation, are to quick to scrap things, and buy new, without trying to fix them. Metal is malleable, to some extent. Do you think that the base plate did not change shape when it was welded together?

Oh jeez, for real? Spend all that money on an RV, a toad, bars, brakes etc. And you want to get cheap on replacing bent base plates? Base plate gets bent for a reason that the OP is really unsure of, and you want to attempt to make a case for bending it back - by hand mind you - and re-using it? I've worked with metal quite a bit and what happens when metal bends is that it decreases it's structural integrity. When it was welded during manufacturing I am sure it was in a jig and spot welded together at various points before laying the beads, for the very reason of maintaining shape. And a weld done properly will increase the structural integrity as opposed to bending back and forth. To make a comparison of the two is silly. How do you know that whatever caused it bend didn't crack it also? For less than $400 you can get a brand new set. Small price to pay and the install should be pretty simple as it's already set up. No way I would trust bending it back. The current has been compromised. But to each his own. If it makes you feel better, recycle the old one so nothing is wasted.

I'd have to see this thing and most likely do some mods for reinforcement, if I deemed it repairable. In many cases, buying new, just gets you the same thing as you had before, no more, no less. Even with buying new, I'd probably be giving it a good looksee for making it and/or something else in the system, a bit stronger. Been there and done that with many things over the course of time, so............

[wildmanbaker]

I guess I know my place now.

[Effy]

wildmanbaker wrote:

Effy wrote:

wildmanbaker wrote:
First, look ands see if there is any damage to the base plate. Is everything still straight and square? If it is slightly out of shape, can you align the holes that were drilled into the frame, by hand? .

Are you asking if you can bend and align the bent baseplate by hand?
I highly doubt you can bend a baseplate by hand and if you could how reliable is it to tow your car?

OP, just get a new one. Simpler, easier, and safer - for everyone.

Yes. The OP may not have money to burn. We as a nation, are to quick to scrap things, and buy new, without trying to fix them. Metal is malleable, to some extent. Do you think that the base plate did not change shape when it was welded together?

Oh jeez, for real? Spend all that money on an RV, a toad, bars, brakes etc. And you want to get cheap on replacing bent base plates? Base plate gets bent for a reason that the OP is really unsure of, and you want to attempt to make a case for bending it back - by hand mind you - and re-using it? I've worked with metal quite a bit and what happens when metal bends is that it decreases it's structural integrity. When it was welded during manufacturing I am sure it was in a jig and spot welded together at various points before laying the beads, for the very reason of maintaining shape. And a weld done properly will increase the structural integrity as opposed to bending back and forth. To make a comparison of the two is silly. How do you know that whatever caused it bend didn't crack it also? For less than $400 you can get a brand new set. Small price to pay and the install should be pretty simple as it's already set up. No way I would trust bending it back. The current has been compromised. But to each his own. If it makes you feel better, recycle the old one so nothing is wasted.

[wildmanbaker]

Effy wrote:

wildmanbaker wrote:
First, look ands see if there is any damage to the base plate. Is everything still straight and square? If it is slightly out of shape, can you align the holes that were drilled into the frame, by hand? .

Are you asking if you can bend and align the bent baseplate by hand?
I highly doubt you can bend a baseplate by hand and if you could how reliable is it to tow your car?

OP, just get a new one. Simpler, easier, and safer - for everyone.

Yes. The OP may not have money to burn. We as a nation, are to quick to scrap things, and buy new, without trying to fix them. Metal is malleable, to some extent. Do you think that the base plate did not change shape when it was welded together?

[Effy]

wildmanbaker wrote:
First, look ands see if there is any damage to the base plate. Is everything still straight and square? If it is slightly out of shape, can you align the holes that were drilled into the frame, by hand? .

Are you asking if you can bend and align the bent baseplate by hand?
I highly doubt you can bend a baseplate by hand and if you could how reliable is it to tow your car?

OP, just get a new one. Simpler, easier, and safer - for everyone.

[wildmanbaker]

First, look ands see if there is any damage to the base plate. Is everything still straight and square? If it is slightly out of shape, can you align the holes that were drilled into the frame, by hand? If you can, you can use either Grade 5, or 8, they just have different torque values, #33 and #47 respectively. More than likely the 3 nuts/washers with the rods attached, have been lost also. You can either order new ones or make new one yourself if you, or someone you know can weld. Remember, use the RED Loctite when assembling, and the correct torque. I know it is a hassle to recheck the torque, but it would be good to check it in 6 months to be sure they are still tight. Also if the drilled holes are slightly puckered, use a hammer to make them as flat as you can with the rest of the area. Good Luck.

[enblethen]

Yes, you could use grade 8, but not worth it as the frame may tear our.
The wire nuts could be still in frame. If they or even one is present it may tell whether they came loose or sheared off.

[doc_brown]

I wouldn't even think twice about replacing it.

[cdl2]

I tried to find out if the bolts were sheared off.
I'll try something else next
Blue Ox says to use grade 5 bolts
Can I use grade 8?

[BennieH]

Interesting. I have never had baseplate hardware come loose. With 3 missing bolts on the same side, My money is still on someone hit you hard on that side.

[dstock50]

Sharp turn ?

[enblethen]

Fron installation manual:
2. It is the owner’s responsibility to inspect all towing equipment for cracked welds, missing or worn parts and loose bolts before each towing trip. Be sure to use Loctite® Red on all bolts and tighten to the recommended specifications.

[supercub]

They should supply drill heads on those bolts so they can be safety wired.

[enblethen]

Make sure you replace the bolts with specified strength as indicated by Blue Ox. Make sure nuts are the correct style. Manual looks like they are serrated to stop coming loose. If you have access, use ny-lok nuts with hardened flat(cut) washers.
Many specifications call for re-torqueing at a scheduled interval.

[cdl2]

I just looked at it real close.........all three bolts are gone, or sheared off.
I'm going to have to remove the grill & bumper cover to see what has happened.
It's hard to believe the bolts fell our after being in there for 6-7 years.
Kinda figured they'd have been rusty by now.