Batteries dead...won't start

[iradi8]

Tried to start the RV after not using it for a while and it won't start. It was connected to shore power (30 amp) the entire time with battery switches on and the charger on. The water level on the house batteries is fine, and the chassis batteries are no maintenance batteries.When attempting to start, it gets momentary current and attempts to start. Then it stops and the entire dash display goes dark.

Tried to use auxiliary start (boost) and get power to dash display, but still will not turn over. According to the manual, chassis batteries should be charged by the charger when connected to shore power. I also ran the generator for three hours, but it didn't help.

Not sure what to do next. Any ideas?

[olfarmer]

willald wrote:

BigBlockTank wrote:

olfarmer wrote:
If your chassis batteries are testing 2 and 3 volts, I think you have found the problem.

How can you say that 100% sure, without testing them first? Does anybody on this forum know if there is a draw on the system? Wouldn't you yourself want to start with exploring the condition of your battery first, before spending money? Is there a problem with his charging system? See, things that we all don't know, not being there....

I'm not making fun or poking at you, I've noticed almost everybody on this forum goes right for the deep end of the pool first. I am not a parts changer, I'm a technician, find the real issue, and fix it at the lowest level. And do it on time, with the least amount of funds. I'm not rich, but because of this style of maintenance practices, I'm not broke either.

..Good points, but please re-read what the original poster said in the last post:

....I pulled the chassis batteries completely and measured them independently. One has 2 and the other has 3.

..If the batteries were pulled and separated completely from the chassis and still measured just 2 or 3 volts....Sorry, once a battery is depleted that badly, it is most likely not ever going to take a charge and come back. At least if it does, its life will be very short before this happens again. Especially since we're talking about batteries that are already at least 5 years old (2009 coach?). If they were newer batteries, maybe, but not ones that are already that old.

I agree that more research, diagnosis is eventually going to be needed to determine what may have depleted the chassis batteries so badly. However, at this point, regardless, the next order of business is to start looking for deals on some new chassis batteries.

Yes, I agree that if they are that low and that old they are due to be replaced. Also, I believe he said they had been connected to his converter which was plugged in which should keep them charged? At any rate the MH would not start because the batteries were almost totally discharged which is the reason it would not start so I would call that the problem! Batteries are easily tested, just take them to a NAPA or other parts store. I don't understand why some people are so ready to jump on others suggestions that are just trying to be helpful?

[willald]

BigBlockTank wrote:

olfarmer wrote:
If your chassis batteries are testing 2 and 3 volts, I think you have found the problem.

How can you say that 100% sure, without testing them first? Does anybody on this forum know if there is a draw on the system? Wouldn't you yourself want to start with exploring the condition of your battery first, before spending money? Is there a problem with his charging system? See, things that we all don't know, not being there....

I'm not making fun or poking at you, I've noticed almost everybody on this forum goes right for the deep end of the pool first. I am not a parts changer, I'm a technician, find the real issue, and fix it at the lowest level. And do it on time, with the least amount of funds. I'm not rich, but because of this style of maintenance practices, I'm not broke either.

..Good points, but please re-read what the original poster said in the last post:

....I pulled the chassis batteries completely and measured them independently. One has 2 and the other has 3.

..If the batteries were pulled and separated completely from the chassis and still measured just 2 or 3 volts....Sorry, once a battery is depleted that badly, it is most likely not ever going to take a charge and come back. At least if it does, its life will be very short before this happens again. Especially since we're talking about batteries that are already at least 5 years old (2009 coach?). If they were newer batteries, maybe, but not ones that are already that old.

I agree that more research, diagnosis is eventually going to be needed to determine what may have depleted the chassis batteries so badly. However, at this point, regardless, the next order of business is to start looking for deals on some new chassis batteries.

[BigBlockTank]

olfarmer wrote:
If your chassis batteries are testing 2 and 3 volts, I think you have found the problem.

How can you say that 100% sure, without testing them first? Does anybody on this forum know if there is a draw on the system? Wouldn't you yourself want to start with exploring the condition of your battery first, before spending money? Is there a problem with his charging system? See, things that we all don't know, not being there....

I'm not making fun or poking at you, I've noticed almost everybody on this forum goes right for the deep end of the pool first. I am not a parts changer, I'm a technician, find the real issue, and fix it at the lowest level. And do it on time, with the least amount of funds. I'm not rich, but because of this style of maintenance practices, I'm not broke either.

[olfarmer]

If your chassis batteries are testing 2 and 3 volts, I think you have found the problem.

[iradi8]

Okay, back to the drawing board. Not taking the batteries in yet or getting new ones. Going to try charging them with a battery charger first.

[TexasH]

Like BigBlockTank says, check the battery first. Most auto parts places will load test it for free. Take it in for the test.

Another thing to check if the battery checks OK... My ground cable uses a clamp type terminal ( like THIS ). There was some corrosion inside the clamp that was preventing the coach from getting a good ground when cranking. I cut off the corroded cable end and put a new clamp on and have had no problems since. Everything seemed to work til I tried to start and the high load was too much for the damaged ground cable.

[Oldme]

Good read here:

http://www.flashoffroad.com/electrical/Batteries/BatteryDrain.html

Good information on an interactive page:

http://www.metrotrekkers.org/utility/electrical.htm

Many RV manufacturers tie in monitors of all sorts to
the starting battery. Step monitors, alarms, etc. all draw
power all the time.

[BigBlockTank]

You guys all seem to drive right over the cliff, right off the bat.

Start with disconnecting the battery/batteries in question. Check the voltage of the batteries in question. If they're less than 12v, put a separate charger on them until they read proper voltage. If they don't ever get to 13 or so volts, change them. If they do, test them with a load tester. If that test shows bad, replace. If it's good, reconnect the battery, and see if it will start. If it does, you're done. If it doesn't, you have a wiring issue that needs to be addressed at this time.

Work smarter, not harder, and start from the known and go to the unknown. That is when you will find that problem, and have a better chance of repairing, finding, and fixing it.

[iradi8]

Okay, no corrosion anywhere. All connections look good. I cleaned off a little road dust. Ground looks intact. Fuse looks okay.

So, then I plugged the RV back in, turned the charger on and measured the voltage across the cables that connect to the batteries from positive to negative without the battery in place. I am getting 13.8v across the circuit. So, it appears that the charger is trying to charge the batteries, but they won't take the charge.

I have a Freightliner dealer/service 30 miles from home. I am taking the chassis batteries over there to have them load test them. I suspect I'll be buying new ones.

Thanks,
Wayne

[iradi8]

Didn't see any corrosion anywhere yet. Still working on looking at everything. The house batteries have between 6.2 and 6.4 each. I pulled the chassis batteries completely and measured them independently. One has 2 and the other has 3.

Can the charger even charge them if the voltage is that low?

Wayne (Sloan's better half)

[mcal63775]

I had the very same problem. And, like you, had it plugged in on shore power.I checked the voltage on batteries and and one battery was at 8 volts. I took it out and had it load tested at the local auto zone. It had a dead cell. Purchased new battery and now she will start!

[iradi8]

Thanks everyone. I am not off of work during the day again until tomorrow, so I won't be able to check it out again until then. I will report back when I do.

[fischer]

Your fleetwood has a battery control centr (BCC) Inside is charge relay/boost . If that relay goes bad your coach battery will not charge when plugged in . It is the same relay that is used for the boost switch. mine is a square black box with a sticker . The cover comes off with no tools , inside is both buss bars , you can use a jumper cable to tie the buss bars together.

[Matt_Colie]

Sloan,

The fact that you can get the IP (dash) power up with the boost switch means that the system is working. The problem is that most of the boost switches are current limited and will not pass enough current to crank an engine. But, as it is working, leave it on for 10~15 minutes and then try a crank.

As others have suggested, you may have a bad chassis (engine) battery or just real bad connections in the system and that should all be investigated.

I could ask questions that would narrow the cause, but I figure if you had better information you would have included it. This is why I gave the owners that I did boat work for a meter if they did not have one. Even a cheapee would do. Before the depression, I gave away a dozen a year with my phone number on the side.

Matt

[Tinstar]

If it's not the battery post, the battery could be sulfated and shorted out. After trying to start it, check the voltage on the post,,,, not the terminals on the post.