Chevy 454 broken exhaust studs...What to do now?

[flash_flood]

I have a 96 Tioga with a 454 that has two busted studs on the exhaust manifold. I couldn't pass up a deal on this thing so I bought knowing it leaked a little but the leak has gotten worse so now the repair.

One of the broken studs sticks out of the manifold hole a little so I should be able to get that one but the other stud broke at the threads inside the head. In fact, there's about two rows of threads left that will thread back and tighten a little. That's obviously how the PO handled it because there's 3 gaskets on this side.

I'm not sure what to do at this point. I live in the Country and the closest dealer want's $1100 to do the job which would require me putting it back together and coughing up the money not to mention delaying our vacation time. How can I get the rest of that stud out or can I thread the busted piece back in and weld it into/onto the head?

[indyzmike]

I agree that an "easy out" is the method to try. If the stud is broken off crooked, use a Dremel tool to flatten or cup the end. That way it will be easier to drill in the center.

If you drill too small of a hole, you would use too small of an easy-out and it might break off. This is bad as you cannot drill out an easy-out. They are too hard.

It is also bad to drill too big of a hole because you weaken the remaining wall of the stud. When you put the easy-out into the stud, the stud expands and will lock in the hole. This also happens if the hole is too close to one side of the stud.

Be patient and gentle, drills and easy-outs like to break.

[flash_flood]

rode2nowhere wrote:
Heck while in there put a high lift cam and dual quad setup,,lol. Just kidding, if all that's wrong is a broken stud and/or manifold that's good.

lol, thanks man. I told my fiance I wanted to put a remote turbo on it. She thinks I'm crazy but I pointed out to her that it's the only vehicle we have that's not boosted one way or the other.

[rode2nowhere]

Heck while in there put a high lift cam and dual quad setup,,lol. Just kidding, if all that's wrong is a broken stud and/or manifold that's good.

[flash_flood]

I didn't expect so many replies so soon. With so many it makes it difficult to address everyone so I'd like to thank you all for responding first.

I didn't get a chance to work on it today. Another issue came up with the propane so I'll leave that for another topic. Being that it's fathers day tomorrow I'll probably hold off until Monday. I did get a chance to go to town today to get an easy out kit, new gasket, new stud kit, some anti seize, and some PB blaster. I forgot the doughnut gasket for the collector but with any luck, I can reuse the old.

My main concern is being able to actually drill in there. It looks like I may not be so lucky. I'm going to remove the front tire and inner fender well to see if I can get it or not. I really don't want to pull the head right now so if it comes down to it I may go without one stud and hope it lasts long enough for one trip. We are planning to hit the road soon.

As far as the stock header goes, I haven't fully inspected it so I do not know if it is cracked. I'll need to find a machine shop if it needs resurfacing. I was also looking at Summit for a replacement should I need to but I'm not sure which one it would be..

This one looks more like the original because of the heat shield.

Header 1

But there's also this one..

Header 2

But then I started thinking...If these stock manifolds suck anyway, would it be crazy to put a set of headers on it and maybe replace the stock cat and muffler. I wouldn't want it to be loud but the stock gear is huge and looks restrictive. I wonder if this thing would benefit from a free flowing exhaust and maybe even a little tuning? I guess mileage is gonna suck regardless so maybe I'm over thinking this too much as I tend to do with things.

[KMLsquared]

Soak the heck out of it with PB Blaster or kroil oil for days before you attempt any extrication.

[jdog]

A stainless bolt and nut will gall if you don't use anti-seize on the threads. You will have a big problem if stainless on stainless seizes. I am not sure about stainless on cast iron. Use anti-seize to be safe.

[j-d]

Reports of successful drilling suggest that we don't want to go back in with hardened or stainless fasteners. I haven't seen it myself, but have it on good authority that stainless becomes hard and brittle when subjected to high heat like exhaust. I replaced a set with stainless not knowing this and they never broke.

[pauldub]

I have successfully drilled one out to the inside diameter of the bolt threads and then just patiently picked the remaining bolt threads out of the threads in the head.

[usmohls2]

Don't forget to have the exhaust manifold re-surfaced before installation.

[rode2nowhere]

Have also used " extractor " welding rods, doesn't burn into threads just the broken bolt, then weld a nut on the end of it and screw it out

[Harvard]

rode2nowhere wrote:
Left hand drill bits work too

One end of the Grab-IT Tool is in fact a left hand drill that creates the hole in the center of the stud to receive the "Grabber" on the other end of the tool.

[rode2nowhere]

Left hand drill bits work too

[ibyers]

Harvard wrote:
This is the best stud removal tool I have ever used. This link is to a Canadian Store but I am sure it would be "Made in the USA".

Grab-IT Tool

Pulled the broken studs from my dodge 5.9 with these. (Along with a bunch of PB Blaster) worked good.

[Harvard]

This is the best stud removal tool I have ever used. This link is to a Canadian Store but I am sure it would be "Made in the USA".

Grab-IT Tool