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Class C cabover lights replacement problem

Wiz
Explorer
Explorer
I'm repairing water damage to the cabover on my 2000 Coachmen Santara Class C. Water entered through the cabover lights. Behind the lights was a open area about an inch deep that was filled with "pink" insulation. I removed the lights and used a grabber tool to pull out the wet insulation. Everything is dry now. My problem is, the luane that was behind the filon came apart when it dried. Now I want to reattach new cabover lights but there is nothing for the screws that should hold them in to "catch" to. I can't figure out how to get anything in that area for a screw backing. The holes for the lights are about 1 inch in diameter, and each had a screw about one inch to each side of the light hole. A piece of wood small enough to go through the hole is too small to catch a screw without breaking. I have no access to the back side without pulling down the ceiling. Today I filled the cavity with spray in foam insulation. It's not sturdy enough to hold a screw.
Looking for ideas!
Thanks,
Paul
2000 Coachmen Santara 311sb, towing a 2004 Honda CR-V.
Paul, Cindy, and Jameson
8 REPLIES 8

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

Grillmeister
Explorer
Explorer
Ha! Time for a BEER :B
Show me the GRILL and STAND BACK!!!!

Wiz
Explorer
Explorer
I used JB KwikWood (http://www.jbweld.com/product/j-b-kwikwood-1oz/). I kneaded the putty into a ball about 3/4 inch in diameter for each screw. After letting it dry, I pre-drilled for the screws and hand-tightened them being careful not to overtighten. So far so good. Thanks for the advice all!
2000 Coachmen Santara 311sb, towing a 2004 Honda CR-V.
Paul, Cindy, and Jameson

Grillmeister
Explorer
Explorer
but it broke the wood
I use plywood for this kind of stuff, it does not split as easy. Let us know how it works out.
Show me the GRILL and STAND BACK!!!!

Wiz
Explorer
Explorer
Grillmeister wrote:
You could push in a couple blobs of JB Stick on each side. After it hardens you can even drill and tap it.

That sounds like the solution I'm looking for. Holiday27, the wood/Gorilla glue solution was my first idea. My problem is the opening is only a inch or so in diameter and I don't have a way of holding it in place until it dries. I had tried holding it with a finger and driving a screw through it (without the light) while the glue dried but it broke the wood. It's too small and hard to maneuver to pre-drill. It's keyhole surgery.

Headed by HD after church for some JB Stick.
2000 Coachmen Santara 311sb, towing a 2004 Honda CR-V.
Paul, Cindy, and Jameson

IAMICHABOD
Explorer II
Explorer II
Grillmeister wrote:
You could push in a couple blobs of JB Stick on each side. After it hardens you can even drill and tap it.

This was done with great success in a same type of application in my RV.
2006 TIOGA 26Q CHEVY 6.0 WORKHORSE VORTEC
Former El Monte RV Rental
Retired Teamster Local 692
Buying A Rental Class C

Grillmeister
Explorer
Explorer
You could push in a couple blobs of JB Stick on each side. After it hardens you can even drill and tap it.
Show me the GRILL and STAND BACK!!!!

Holiday27
Explorer
Explorer
How about gluing in a piece of wood with gorilla glue? My buddy just removed the lights and filled the holes with calk. Then you lose the leak point.
2002 27PBS Holiday Rambler (Aluminum sided/roof) Love it!

Previous RV's
'94 Jamboree 22ft. (This beast had a 460 with tons of power)
'95 VW Eurovan camper (5 cyl. dog) Pulled a 3 rail fine though.
Tent:(
Borrowed folks '84 VW Westfalia (water cooled)