Common Xplorer Problems/Fixes?

[tylerdurdeno9]

Hey all, thanks for checking my post.

I have been having some small problems with my 1990 xplorer and was wondering if these are common in our vehicles.

The first thing that has happened recently has been my fuel gauge not working. From time to time it will jump up and begin working again but most of the time it stays pegged to the bottom.

Second, my passenger door will not shut. It will shut enough for the safety latch but not shut the entire way. I think it is the henge attached to the van itself but I am not sure. Anyone else experience this?

Lastly, when parked at an incline or decline the van has a very hard time starting. Is this something happening with our fuel system?

Thanks again,

Chris

[goreds2]

steveh27 wrote:
Yes, 30.

Thanks,

[steveh27]

Yes, 30.

[goreds2]

Slightly off topic and slightly embarrassed to ask. I have mostly boon docked in my Class B. When I go to a campground possibly in October, will I need 30 or 50 amp service? I am guessing 30. Thanks,

See Picture In My Profile
1989 Dodge XPLORER RV Van- Purchased 10/15/10
Chick Magnet !

* Sportsman GEN154 2000 Watt 80cc Portable Generator *
XM Satellite Radio since 12/25/2004
Sold my Class C 1976 Dodge TEC Motor Home 9/25/10

[steveh27]

I've had my driver's door window fall out of it's track at least 5-6 times. I got used to the pita to remove the panel and try to get it back in place. Tough working in tight spaces with sharp edges. I've taken it to the Dodge dealer twice for this & it's been OK for a year or more now. The last time they also had to replace the power window switch.

[goreds2]

GizmosMom wrote:
Chris: The Driver's side window on our 2000 Xplorer stopped working during a trip to Colorado in 2010. What a pain! In order to get it to stay up we had to tape it with Duct tape. Found out that Gorilla Glue Duct tape works the best.

It stopped working after a heavy rainstorm.

When we returned home our local auto service place installed a new motor. The passenger side motor seemed slow so we also had that replaced. Now it runs very slowly when it is damp out (not very often down here during the drought). I am careful not to use it when it is misty or raining. Other than that it goes up and down smoothly for me.

Our rear window was sealed by a Class B dealer (service department) about 7-8 years ago after it leaked. When driving through exceptionally heavy rains we sometimes notice moisture.

Haven't used our van for any trips lately...hope to resume again in the fall.

Hope this helps somewhat.

I am a little afraid to work on my drivers side window fearing it will not close. This is stored outside. I would probably have to resort to duck tape if needed.

[GizmosMom]

Chris: The Driver's side window on our 2000 Xplorer stopped working during a trip to Colorado in 2010. What a pain! In order to get it to stay up we had to tape it with Duct tape. Found out that Gorilla Glue Duct tape works the best.

It stopped working after a heavy rainstorm.

When we returned home our local auto service place installed a new motor. The passenger side motor seemed slow so we also had that replaced. Now it runs very slowly when it is damp out (not very often down here during the drought). I am careful not to use it when it is misty or raining. Other than that it goes up and down smoothly for me.

Our rear window was sealed by a Class B dealer (service department) about 7-8 years ago after it leaked. When driving through exceptionally heavy rains we sometimes notice moisture.

Haven't used our van for any trips lately...hope to resume again in the fall.

Hope this helps somewhat.

[tylerdurdeno9]

Thanks for all of the helpful replies guys and gals! And I will tell G to lay off 318! haha. All leaking has stopped for now. I used rv sealant around every window (including the inside seams of the windows themselves) until I get time after this work season to fix it. Also, I have realized that my locking mechanism is broke. The passenger (g) has to flick it manually before shutting the door now but it works!

[steveh27]

My 97 Xplorer had a rear window leak until chaingang told me the solution. The top of the window frame has screws which penetrate to the inside. They came caulked which wears off. So I resealed them with RV sealant and put black duct tape across the top seam so that rainwater flows over the top joint. No more leak.

[Handbasket]

I quickly Googled 'removing inner door panel, old Dodge van' and got about 900,000 hits. Some on page 1 were for minivans, but at least there's some stuff out there.

My general procedure is to find the screws that hold the armrest and inside latch handle surround on and remove them. Then I slide a wide, flat prying tool into the seam between the door and panel, and start gently prying. This usually tells me where the retaining clips are, and I can start prying (gently!!) as close to them as possible. It's not the way a mechanic does it, but it has worked for me in the past.

There are also sometimes special removal tools available from big box auto stores (at least, used to be) that will do a better job of preserving the panel & clips, but I think they tend to be brand & era specific.

Jim, "Strong, like a bull. Smart, like a fence post."

[goreds2]

My drivers side door electric window stopped going up or down. The motor runs but window will not move. Anyone know how easy or difficult it is to remove the door panel.

When I palm the window from each side and force it down, it goes right up after releasing it.

1989 Dodge Xplorer

[landyacht318]

You got to tell G to stop abusing that poor door!

Just kidding. The striker on the door's frame could have got pushed further in. You need a big honking Star or Torx bit to loosen it properly, though vice grips can work, but you will need to file down the teeth marks afterwards. There is a pretty good range of movement on the striker bar on the frame. Usually the door bushings wear out, causing door sag meaning the door catch is too high to catch the striker bar. See if lifting the door when closing it helps. If so, loosen the striker bar and move it down a few mm. Run a sharpie around it beforehand so you can see in which direction you move it. Pretty easy adjustment really. Hardest part is finding the right size torx Bit to fit proper, but the Vice grips work pretty well. Try and tighten it so the teeth marks are not on top of the striker bar/ stud.

Says the guy with teeth marks on the top of the striker bar.....

The lock mechanism on the door catch itself has this weird plastic junk on it, originally to reduce noise or something. It gets all tore up over time and does not allow the door to close properly. I had to spend time with a razor and a pair of needle nose vice grips to remove it entirely and allow free movement of the mechanism. White lithium grease or some graphite spray on the mechanism a few times a year will be necessary.

The fuel sending float could have gotten stuck. On newer GM vehicles one possible cure is putting a Bottle of Techron in the tank to free the mechanism. This worked on my Dad's '06 Audi A6 too.

Do check the connection at the fuel tank. Does the temp gauge operate in the normal range? If not there is a voltage limiter in the dashboard cluster than can be replaced. When it goes bad or feeds the wrong voltage, usually both fuel and temp gauges will either read high or low together, or not at all. If the temp gauge reads normal I'd not suspect this.

The incline or decline starting issue could be related to the fuel gauge and if so, points to the connector at the fuel tank as a likely culprit. It should be facing forward up near the body near the top of the tank. There is also a ground for the pump on one of the cross members in the area, be sure to unscrew this, file all mating surfaces shiny and retighten. Its location is there on an unmodified Dodge anyway. Pull the connector apart, and look for corrosion or heat damage. Lots of light needed to see for sure. Helps to clean things up as there should be some dielectric grease stuffed in the connector, but since you had a few different people replace that pump a few years back, maybe they forgot the grease and corrosion has ensued.



See if turning the key on and off a few times before cranking the starter affects this hard start behavior when on an incline/decline. Could be the check valve in the fuel pump assembly. There are aftermarket check valves you can install elsewhere to hold the fuel pressure for easier starting. You can install these anywhere on the feed line. Do not have to drop the tank to do so.

Good luck, feel free to call.

[Arizona_Kid]

tylerdurdeno9 wrote:
Awesome, thanks for the reply!
o
Do you happen to have leaky rear windows on your xplorer? If you have one.

I don't have a Xplorer, but I have worked on several older Dodge, and Ford vans.
My reply was just from experience.
Sorry, can't help with the windows.

[Handbasket]

tylerdurdeno9 wrote:
Awesome, thanks for the reply!

Do you happen to have leaky rear windows on your xplorer? If you have one.

If it's a Dodge chassis, and has the single big rear door & window... My '99/'00 Roadtrek developed a leak at the rear. It turned out that most or all was because the rear door gasket had come loose at the upper passenger's side corner. There were some small plastic pins (yellow, IIRC) that protruded from the gasket and were supposed to locate & hold the gasket in place. On mine, about 5-6 pins on thet upper corner had come out of their holes in the metal, allowing the gasket to get out of place. I found that the pins would hod, so I added some 3M yellow gasket glue. Cured most of it.

Jim, "If it's called tourist season, why can't we hunt them?"

[tylerdurdeno9]

Awesome, thanks for the reply!

Do you happen to have leaky rear windows on your xplorer? If you have one.