Dicor Self Leveling or Eternabond Tape

[SGTJOE]

Should I use Dicor self leveling caulk or Eternabond tape on my MH roof?

[SGTJOE]

Hi Folks, well I did the eternabond tape back then and now over 5 years later it's still good.

[msmith1199]

I used both on the front and end cap seals. I used the self leveling caulk in a small amount on the joint itself and then put the tape over the top of it. If you do this just use a small amount of the caulk as the tape has to stick to the fiberglass, not the caulk.

[magik235]

SGTJOE wrote:
Anyone have pictures of their roof seams sealed with eternabond tape? If I do the tape should I try to do it in one length or in pieces?

I use one piece.

[Bruce_Brown]

magik235 wrote:
Both depending on the configuration needed.

Agreed.

Whenever I work on or replace a roof I tend to use both.

[Dale_Traveling]

SGTJOE wrote:
Anyone have pictures of their roof seams sealed with eternabond tape? If I do the tape should I try to do it in one length or in pieces?

I'm pretty much in the same school of thought as MrWizard. Tape straight lines while caulking round openings. I've taped the front and rear cap to roof seam along with skylights and vents. Never have to renew the seal again.



Edit: Forgot to mention, one long single piece of tape front and back cap seal along with the vents, shower sky light and a retrofit Jack TV antenna base. If you rework a long run such as the front or rear seal measure and mark reference lines to follow with the edge of the tape. Once down the possibility of successfully pulling off and resetting Eternabond is pretty remote if your a bit off following a seam. A chalk line or tick marks every couple of inches will keep you going in a straight line.

[Nomadac]

I did my roof with eternabond tape about 5 years ago and have never had any problems since then. I ran the strips the entire length without piecing it. Proper cleaning the roof as directed and it will not come loose. I used a small wallpaper roller to remove any bubbles and seal the edges.Be careful before you put it down as you will not be able to lift it up once it sticks.

[SGTJOE]

Anyone have pictures of their roof seams sealed with eternabond tape? If I do the tape should I try to do it in one length or in pieces?

[MrWizard]

Where is it going, what is it sealing ?

This determines what is best

For square roof vents, I prefer Eternabond tape

For round plumbing vents, use some clay or something to make a little coffer dam, around the vent then poor in the Dicor
Self leveling will flatten out and run down hill, so you must be level and have a way to maintain thickness

I'm not real fond of the self leveling caulk, unless I'm trying to fill a crack in a roof seam

I really prefer regular thick caulking that stays where I put it

[time2roll]

Dicor works fine with me. EB seems a bit permanent. Applied correctly they both seem to work well.

[ScottG]

Eternabond tape if you can use it. Some places you just cant.

[dave17352]

I use both and both are fantastic products. I think each has its place. I think if I had to give up one or the other I would part with eternabond first. If you were to look at my roofs they would look just like the earlier posters Majik235's.

[Jim]

Eternabond tape. Hardly any prep needed other then washing the roof. Cut it, press it in place, roller it, done. And never need to do it again.

[FIRE_UP]

SGTJOE wrote:
Should I use Dicor self leveling chalk or Eternabond tape on my MH roof?

Well,
It's kind of a matter of opinion. I see so many run out and buy the tape when a self leveling caulk product works just fine. The real trick in obtaining the best results is, you have to put EFFORT into cleaning the areas in question, in order for the Dicor or, any other self leveling caulk to do its job.

I've re-sealed many-a joints, vents, roof-top fan vents, shower skylights, cap ends and more, with Dicor. It's always worked absolutely flawlessly due to the manor in which I prepped the area before application. It's actually quite simple. I use a heat gun to really soften any and all old caulking. And that includes working on a rubber roof too.

Then, while the old caulk is really supple and plyible, I scrape it all off with a nice, 1 1/2" stiff bladed putty knife. Once the area is devoid of all the old caulking, I wipe the area down with alcohol thoroughly to make sure there is no oils, or handprints etc. Then, out comes the new Dicor tube. If a tube appears to be aged, it's trash. The product is too cheap to save it for months or years and then break it out of hibernation and squeeze every last drop. Get a new tube.

I mean, $10.00 or so for a new tube?? That's cheap when compared to ANY roof leaks. I just did a few roof top items on our '04 Itasca Horizon 36GD and, it came out flawless. Your choice.
Scott

[magik235]

Both depending on the configuration needed.