โOct-10-2004 04:24 PM
โMay-22-2008 07:24 PM
"No One Cares What You Know, Until They Know That You Care!"......."God Bless America"
โMay-21-2008 09:29 AM
โMay-19-2008 03:46 PM
โMay-10-2008 07:46 AM
Jim Bakker wrote:
Subject: hard ride....bad springs?
The quality of the ride in our 2004 Pace Arrow has been deteriorating recently. For awhile we thought it was just California roads, but I knew it was time to replace the shocks after 4 years and 50K miles. But unfortunately new shocks didn't help at all. Now the ride is unbearable! Drawers and doors that haven't come open since the Alaska Highway are coming open, significant squeaks are coming from the living area, one (maybe both) the corner braces of the shower enclosure has broken, etc. We knew something serious was wrong when our 110-pound Golden Retriever climbed on the dash to escape the noise and bumps!
I took it back to the shop that installed the shocks, complaining about their overly stiff ride. They say it's not the shocks, but the springs. They showed me that the chassis is resting on the "bump stops". I had a mechanic friend come to look at it today and he verified that diagnosis. We found another Workhorse-based motorhome in the storage yard; it was at least 2 inches off the "bump stops".
I got the coach weighed this afternoon. It's well under the published load limits.
Has anyone else found their coach sitting on the bump stops?
โMay-08-2008 02:59 PM
Mel Johansen wrote:
Retractable steps. Has anyone had a problem with the steps not going down when the screen door is opened? I went out last night in the dark to turn off some lights, stepped ouy and no stairs. I broke a toe as I fell all the way down. I was fortunate to have hold of the bar as I went down. The switch was off in order to keep the stairs in the down position. This is a dangerous situation.
Mel
โMay-08-2008 01:13 PM
โMay-08-2008 05:26 AM
SWM wrote:
I have 2008 Pace Arrow 38P and have a few questions. I tried to run my heat pump on the electric setting on the thermostat and the gas and heat pump came on. I thought the heat pump only should have kicked on.
โMay-08-2008 04:01 AM
โMay-07-2008 07:47 AM
โApr-26-2008 08:22 AM
โApr-19-2008 06:35 PM
"No One Cares What You Know, Until They Know That You Care!"......."God Bless America"
โApr-16-2008 01:02 PM
โApr-15-2008 08:13 PM
unionman wrote:
04 how do get the water to work on 110? I flip the switch but that does not turn it on,there must be another switch somewhere?
โApr-15-2008 07:05 PM
โApr-15-2008 12:17 PM
Paul Turpin wrote:saber wrote:
Electrical Question
The two kitchen 110 outlets are putting out low power--around 92 volts. I have fiddled around with the electrical system for a couple of days and have concluded that the circuit breaker is not the problem, and interestingly enough, the bathroom 110 GFI outlet, which is on the same circuit, reads 112 volts. I have dropped all power off of the coach; checked every fuse, and followed the wiring as much as I can with nothing unusual found. Anyone had a similar problem, or any good ideas before I schedule our PA into the dealer?
Had the same problem and it almost caused a fire, it did melt the outlet. If your wiring is the same as my 37C, the circuit runs from the breaker to the GFI outlet in the bathroom, then goes to the outlet inside your water/electric basement compartment outside. Then it runs to a junction box in the kitchen slideout wall then to the kitchens outlets. (As you can see I had fun tracing this)
My problem was the outlet in the water/electric basement compartment. The hot wire came loose and was shorting out inside the outlet box. I would check there, Fleetwood used a cheap outlet and the wire just came out. Then I would check inside the junction box behind the slideout wall. I had to remove the wood inspection plate then started bring in the slideout until you see the junction box.