looking for owners of 2004-2005 Pace Arrows

[Jim_Bakker]

I'd like to make contact with others who own one of the new (2004, 2005) Pace Arrows so we can share experiences, problems, good things, etc.

[wa0mqe]

I too have the Ultrapower. It has not helped my mileage at all. If anything the mileage is less then it was before Ultrapower. However, the is a definite difference in power from before. It doesn't shift down nearly as often as it did. I can run up a grade much longer and in many cases over the top of some moderate hills without downshifting.

A reminder on my question above about electrical schematics. Any comments, please? QUOTE: "Does anyone have any schematics for their 2004/05 36B/37C which is 50-Amp service? Mostly I'm interested in something showing the AC Distribution (Breaker Panel) and also the Transfer Switch."

[FrontRangeRVer]

sawellman wrote:
Seperate point on UltraPower upgrade: I have read all of the posts and am considering this for mine. For those of you that have had the upgrade for over a year now are you still happy with it, did you see any additional strain or wear on the coach/engine/transmission? For those of you with it in California - what is the deal with the upgrade relative to CA emission standards...does it still qualify for SMOG?

😉
Took us a year to get a refund on our Ultrapower....glad to have our engine back to stock!!!!

And if the Ultrapower gets you 2-3 mpg increase....I have some swamp land in Colorado for sale.

[bricot]

Fyr guy wrote:

sawellman wrote:
Seperate point on UltraPower upgrade: I have read all of the posts and am considering this for mine. For those of you that have had the upgrade for over a year now are you still happy with it, did you see any additional strain or wear on the coach/engine/transmission? For those of you with it in California - what is the deal with the upgrade relative to CA emission standards...does it still qualify for SMOG?

As for Ultrapower, I've had mine for 30K miles and it remains the best improvement I've had done on the rig. Climbed the Grapevine 2 weeks ago, with toad, and climbed it at 50-55 the whole way. You'll notice the power as soon as you drive off the lot. The MPG increase has been on the 2-3 range. Can't speak to the smog yet but I'm sure if you call and talk to Keith at Redlands Truck Center, he can advise/explain.

+1

[Fyr_guy]

sawellman wrote:
Seperate point on UltraPower upgrade: I have read all of the posts and am considering this for mine. For those of you that have had the upgrade for over a year now are you still happy with it, did you see any additional strain or wear on the coach/engine/transmission? For those of you with it in California - what is the deal with the upgrade relative to CA emission standards...does it still qualify for SMOG?

As for Ultrapower, I've had mine for 30K miles and it remains the best improvement I've had done on the rig. Climbed the Grapevine 2 weeks ago, with toad, and climbed it at 50-55 the whole way. You'll notice the power as soon as you drive off the lot. The MPG increase has been on the 2-3 range. Can't speak to the smog yet but I'm sure if you call and talk to Keith at Redlands Truck Center, he can advise/explain.

[sawellman]

On the Power Gear jacks: I took my RV into my mechanic and while it was there discussed my experience with my jacks. They informed me that the jacks are in fact too small for the weight of the coach (only rated for 5,000lbs ea). So, when trying to level side to side (which is done by only one jack...left rear or right rear respectively) the jacks do not have enough power to lift the RV more than a little bit. Seems like the Power Gear jacks on the 2004 PA are more for stabalizing and not leveling. Frustrating as most camping I do is not on level ground. If anyone has any solutions or if anyone has replaced/upgraded their jacks on a 2004 PA I would love to hear what you did and/or your experience.

Seperate point on UltraPower upgrade: I have read all of the posts and am considering this for mine. For those of you that have had the upgrade for over a year now are you still happy with it, did you see any additional strain or wear on the coach/engine/transmission? For those of you with it in California - what is the deal with the upgrade relative to CA emission standards...does it still qualify for SMOG?

[wa0mqe]

I was also reading the posts on the Power Gear jacks. I agree with the analogy that the jacks are not correct for this coach. The jacks are too small for the distance they must lift the coach to level it. They are also not big enough (pistons not large enough in diameter) for these coaches. As mentioned they are usually all the way out when getting close to leveling and this makes them wobble because the piston is extended so far, (hence the jacks being to small).

Someone mentioned the rear jacks lifting first. This is not what the instruction manual, nor Power Gear says. The two front jacks are supposed to lift first. They raise just a little, 1 or 2 inches, and then stop. The rear then will raise. The two front jacks operate as one jack. They are connected to each other with a hydraulic hose that allows them to work together. The left and right jacks on the rear are the ones that level the coach side to side. The front jacks will release pressure on the side that needs to drop and send the fluid over to the opposite front jack. If you look at the jacks you will see this extra hose that interconnects between the two front jacks. The rear jacks do not have this hose.

[wa0mqe]

Does anyone by chance have a set of schematics for their 2004/05 36B/37C which is 50-Amp service? Mostly I'm interested in something showing the AC Distribution (Breaker Panel) and also the Transfer Switch.

I'm considering changing out my 30-amp coach to 50-amp and would like it to be stock as much as possible.

Fleetwood sent me via email all the electrical schematics a few years ago. They would only send me mine based on my Fleetwood manufacture number. They were *.pdf files which worked out pretty good.

[bricot]

Yep, I carry a number of 2x10 wood blocks for the jacks and some longer ones for pulling the tires up onto if the site is really bad. I reprogrammed the auto function and it works pretty well most of the time for me, if the site is really un-level sometimes manual works better.

What brand of converter's are people replacing the stock ones with?

[dkingdoe]

Lobstah wrote:
I'd really like to open it up and find a converter there...I just don't think our coach has one? Although folks are surprised that we don't have one.
I'm assuming you're talking about an inverter?

Jim

I, too, am surprised you don't have one ... but no, we don't have an inverter..we have a converter. Open it up and it might just be the converter you didn't think you had. Can't hurt to check it out. Let us know what you find.

[Lobstah]

I'd really like to open it up and find a converter there...I just don't think our coach has one? Although folks are surprised that we don't have one.
I'm assuming you're talking about an inverter?

Jim

[dkingdoe]

Lobstah wrote:
On a different note, last year I was troubleshooting an electrical issue, which was resolved successfully. I learned where my battery charger is during that process, right above my propane tank, just forward of my entrance door.
In my galley, under the stove top, there is a metal vent. From time to time, a fan starts up behind that vent, as if to cool something off.

Anyone have any ideas what that might be?...it's not my furnace...

Jim

Jim, might be your power converter?? We have the 36B model, but our converter is located in the back under some drawers, and that's what ours does - from time to time the fan starts up because it is cooling the converter.

[R2Dillon]

On the PowerGear levelers, the rear units are linked so that the front can sway the unit side to side. That is the reason that the rear lower first. I carry the orange plastic leveler blocks to put under the PowerGear pistons. There is also a zerc fitting to grease the rear units.

[Lobstah]

On a different note, last year I was troubleshooting an electrical issue, which was resolved successfully. I learned where my battery charger is during that process, right above my propane tank, just forward of my entrance door.
In my galley, under the stove top, there is a metal vent. From time to time, a fan starts up behind that vent, as if to cool something off.

Anyone have any ideas what that might be?...it's not my furnace...

Jim

[Paul_Turpin]

The only way I can get the jacks to work (good) is put wood under each jack so there is only three to four inch down before it hits the wood to level the rig. It is a pain to carry the wood (2x6 8 inch long) but it makes a big difference.

[Jim_Bakker]

sawellman wrote:
For those of you with Power Gear jacks what has been your experience?

My experience is much the same as yours. I'm very unhappy with the Power Gear jacks!

I've given up using auto mode. It lifts the rear jacks first, and since my rig is always nose low that's the wrong way to start the leveling process. I now use manual, first trying to get the nose up high enough to reach level, then extending the rear jacks just until they touch.

And like you have experienced, if the site is not pretty much level, the jacks do not have enough travel to get the rig level. Power Gear has explained this to me as insufficient space between the chassis (where the jacks are mounted) and the coach floor (the upper limit of the retracted jack leg), which limited the jack leg length that could be used. I suspect this space limitation came about because of the 7-foot ceiling introduced in 2004. And I also suspect Fleetwood recognized the problem and went with the Atwood jacks for 2005 and later model years.

Someone asked if it was possible to extend a single jack leg. One of our rear jacks often fails to extend properly, so I've learned how to do this—simultaneously press both a right/left button and a front/rear button. For example, to extend the right rear jack, press the right and rear buttons at the same time.