Newer RVs that are hard to winterize.....grrrrr

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

So today Ed and I wandered over to a Florida CW dealer to look at some new, smaller Class C's in the 22 to 24' size. It's been 3 years since we sold the trusty, entry-level 28' C we owned previously - the one where we could open the lower door and SEE how much water was in the fresh tank; and could access (easily) the pump to switch the 3-way valve so it would suck antifreeze directly from the bottle. We could winterize that thing in under 10 minutes - it was easy.

We were admiring the nice airy floorplan of a Thor Freedom Elite 23' - it was perfect, in my mind - and then in a flash of brilliance, I asked where the water pump was. We searched everywhere. Turning on the pump switch didn't help - the battery was disconnected it seems. Finally, our salesgirl went and got someone from the service department - he wasn't much help; but we all deduced that it *might* be between the outer wall and the freshwater tank under the screwed-down dinette seatbase. Assuming that was it - it was in an incredibly-awkward spot for a procedure that needs to be done at least once - or multiple times if you live in the north and use your RV 😞 And if you spill antifreeze - it will be INSIDE the RV.

Hoping to get more insight - we moved over to the same make in a 22' length, and were stymied again. We moved to a Forest River Forester - a massive creature; and of course it had the winterizing system all set up and ready to go. But this particular dealer didn't have any small FR models on hand. I finally apologized to our salesgirl - she had been very helpful, but I told her that not being able to winterize the RV quickly and easily was a deal-breaker for us. I feel bad for the newbies who don't know to look for details like this.

I've been on RV.net for over a decade and have read many complaints about RV designs that make no sense from a utilization standpoint; and now I realize we're about to experience that, too. Ugh.

Are there any 21-to-25' entry-level Class C's with easy access to the water pump?? I'm perfectly capable of adding a 3-way valve to the intake of the pump for winterizing - I just need to get AT the pump to do it.

Deb

[Snowman9000]

On either our present or past Class C, I had to unscrew the plywood cover under the seat cushion. I assume that is what you are referring to. But then I was able to leave it unscrewed permanently. For some liability reason they didn't want to sell them with easy access.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

mrmomb wrote:
To answer the OP... You can find the water pump in the Thor 22E under the rear dinette seat.

I finally found that out..... and considering that the dinette table is not easily removed (?) and one actually has to unscrew and remove the seat base, goes right back to my original premise that some of these RVs are a real PITA to winterize! I'm not saying I've completely ruled out that model, but it's certainly towards the bottom of my list.

[Bumpyroad]

Dakzuki wrote:

Sully2 wrote:
Get the coupling from Campers World that lets you feed air into your water line. Open all drains and blow out the water with about 15 PSI air pressure.

This.

I use about 30 PSI

or save $6.00 and get a plastic one at walmart.
bumpy

[Dakzuki]

Sully2 wrote:
Get the coupling from Campers World that lets you feed air into your water line. Open all drains and blow out the water with about 15 PSI air pressure.

This.

I use about 30 PSI

[mrmomb]

To answer the OP... You can find the water pump in the Thor 22E under the rear dinette seat.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

TyroneandGladys wrote:

IMHO if you have to beg for them to sell you something can you imagine what you have to do for service.

At this point, unless something enticing pops up, we'll wait until we're back in Michigan to buy a new C. Our local dealer (General RV in Wayland) has always taken good care of us in the past. After years of reading about complaints regarding service on this forum, IMO, finding a good dealer might be more important than the brand of MH?

[TyroneandGladys]

Sound like the same CW sales staff as in Mesa AZ. Several years ago in a moment of weakness we went and looked at new Class C RV's we asked the salesperson just how did the dinette cushions make into a bed. He had no clue and stated he would find out the next day and call us. The day after he was supposed to call we called he was not in and we left a message for the SALES MANEGER to call us and they never did. Was a great blessing we kept our faithful 1986 Class C and are still going down the road.
IMHO if you have to beg for them to sell you something can you imagine what you have to do for service.

[Snowman9000]

Same here, we bought new for less than what most dealers and owners were asking for late model used. It's crazy. At least with new ones, we were able to play dealers against each other with apples to apples.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

Bumpyroad wrote:

yep when you figure discount off retail, lower financing cost, any warranties, more value when you trade it in later, people who are upside down on their loan and have to have a certain amount, sellers who look at "asking" prices in ads and think that is the actual value, etc. buying new deserves being considered.
bumpy

You're right - it's how we bought our 2004 Class C: we liked the model, and when a local dealer offered to sell us a new unit for $2000 LESS that we had been seeing for used units, it was a no-brainer.

But this particular auction was different - being end-of-the-year, many companies simply want stock off their books. There were over 200 units auctioned; and almost every one was sold. Many appeared to be repos (the initial photos showed personal belongings still in the units) and I'm guessing some were rentals that had been depreciated out. Others clearly were units that no dealer wanted to mess with (delaminated, etc).

Ed and I have a small used-car lot. At car dealer auctions, THIS is the time of year when we stock up for the next year because the prices are so low. We mistakenly assumed the same would apply to RV's being auctioned - and we were horribly wrong - the demand is driving the prices UP.

We will continue to watch for used units - but if the wholesale prices continue to stay within $5000-$8000 of what we suspect we can pay for new, we'll buy new.

And if I'm buying something new - it had better be easy to winterize 😉

[Bumpyroad]

samven1 wrote:
That was the problem I ran into when I was shopping for mine. I really did not want to buy new and had a budget I was trying to stick to but the lower mileage off rental unit were only a few thousand less than new and without all the options or warranty and the dealers actually had used units priced the same as last model year left overs.

yep when you figure discount off retail, lower financing cost, any warranties, more value when you trade it in later, people who are upside down on their loan and have to have a certain amount, sellers who look at "asking" prices in ads and think that is the actual value, etc. buying new deserves being considered.
bumpy

[samven1]

That was the problem I ran into when I was shopping for mine. I really did not want to buy new and had a budget I was trying to stick to but the lower mileage off rental unit were only a few thousand less than new and without all the options or warranty and the dealers actually had used units priced the same as last model year left overs.

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

Well, I'm back to Square One - the RV Dealer auction today showed that there's a feeding frenzy by RV dealers for nice used RVs - especially the smaller ones. For the prices they were selling for at wholesale - I can go back to Michigan and negotiate a deal via retail. Crazy. I had my eye on a 2012 Leprechaun 230CB (no slides) that had some warts: was going to need new tires, plus a TV; and there were some cushions missing for the dinette. Also, a weird fake-stone-looking countertop. I figured it might chase away the dealers who simply wanted to buy it and put it on the front row? Nope - it sold for over $40,000. I can go back home and buy one 2 years newer for $45k, assuming I walk in and pay asking price. Sheesh.

So I'm still looking.

[Bumpyroad]

Deb and Ed M wrote:

Snowman9000 wrote:

By my way of thinking, if doing it this way, you had better drain your pump first. Then reconnect and winterize.

LOL!! If I could get to the pump to drain it - I could attach the 3-way valve to suck antifreeze 🙂

just run it dry for a short while.
bumpy

[Deb_and_Ed_M]

Snowman9000 wrote:

By my way of thinking, if doing it this way, you had better drain your pump first. Then reconnect and winterize.

LOL!! If I could get to the pump to drain it - I could attach the 3-way valve to suck antifreeze 🙂