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Oil Changes and Overheating- A Cautionary Tale

rambow
Explorer
Explorer
Last year I began experiencing persistent overheating of the 6.8 liter V10 on my '99 Southwind 36Z. My mechanic, himself a motorhome owner, started by replacing the least expensive component first - the thermostat, then flushed the coolant. No joy. We advanced through a new water pump and fan clutch, and still there was no improvement. Finally, in desperation, I ordered a new radiator and as soon as the mechanics dropped the old radiator out the bottom of the coach the cause became immediately apparent.




The less than stellar diagnostic skills of my mechanic aside, my main reason for posting this tale is to save other owners from a similar, expensive experience.

Because I have always done my own oil changes, ultimately, I was the cause of this problem, with a some help from the designer of the ridiculous placement of the oil filler tube in the F53 chassis. It is hard against the firewall with only about six inches of overhead clearance from the horizontal overhead. It is almost impossible to get a funnel into the tube and pour quarts of oil into it without slopping a little oil over the side. After discovering this, I made it SOP to d**** an old towel below the filler tube to prevent the inevitable spills from falling on the radiator, transmission cooler, or air conditioner condensor. But over the last 16 years, since we bought our coach new, it's obvious from the thoroughly caked radiator that my preventive measure was ineffective, to say the least! I should add that the radiator is well hidden behind the aforementioned components and is extremely difficult to inspect. The visible portions of the radiator looked fine.

To protect my shiny new radiator from a repeat performance I bought a funnel emptying into a hose that can be shoved well down the filler tube, and long enough that the funnel itself can be filled outside the coach. The one I have was purchased at Walmart and is shaped like a large measuring cup. It holds a full quart of oil, has a built-in filter screen, and a twist valve to stop the flow. The plastic tube it came with was too short and so thin that it tended to kink, so I replaced that with a four foot length of nylon-braided, clear vinyl water hose from the plumbing department of Home Depot.

Now, with the funnel's handle shock-corded to the windshield wiper base, which puts it higher than the top of the filler tube outside the coach, I can pour from a 5 quart oil jug. Care must be taken when removing the hose from the filler tube as there will still be some oil in the hose where it hangs below the filler and funnel, but a rag over the end takes care of that until it's out from under the hood and can be drained back into the oil jug.

If you trust someone else to do your oil changes, beware. I doubt if he'll be very cautious about a few drips of oil. After all, in most vehicles the filler tube isn't in such a treacherous position, and a rag will take care of a little spillage.

Now, go forth, my brothers and sisters of the road, and drip no more.
Bill Rambow
'99 Fleetwood Southwind 36Z - Ford F53 V10 Triton
5 Years US Army & 35 Years US Customs, Retired
RVing with DW, Kids, Grand-Kids and Golden Retrievers since 1977
16 REPLIES 16

rambow
Explorer
Explorer
Wrong Lane wrote:

If we are talking about access to perform your own maintenance then I want to add the terrible location of the oil pan drain plug. Mine is right above the front axle meaning I have to balance the waste oil tray on the axle while draining the old oil.

I always manage to spill a cup or so on my driveway every year. I do place a tarp under the engine to prevent a mess but what a pain!


I surrendered to that battle after my first try. I let the oil cascade off the axle into the drain pan, then wipe it all down with paper towels when the job is done. Hey, at least that section of the axle will never rust!
Bill Rambow
'99 Fleetwood Southwind 36Z - Ford F53 V10 Triton
5 Years US Army & 35 Years US Customs, Retired
RVing with DW, Kids, Grand-Kids and Golden Retrievers since 1977

rambow
Explorer
Explorer
BUTCHPHI wrote:
You hint about difficulty of removing radiator - can you share a little insight or techniques??? Just in case, ha. I've got a 2000 Tropical with the v10, so some day I may face same issue.


Not in detail, because I left the task to the two mechanics who got stuck with it. The coach had to be jacked up high enough for the radiator to come out the bottom and there was a lot of swearing in a couple different languages going on. Does that help? ๐Ÿ™‚
Bill Rambow
'99 Fleetwood Southwind 36Z - Ford F53 V10 Triton
5 Years US Army & 35 Years US Customs, Retired
RVing with DW, Kids, Grand-Kids and Golden Retrievers since 1977

Wrong_Lane
Explorer
Explorer
Fleetwood is not the only manufacturer to put the oil filler tube in that awkward spot, high on the firewall.

Necessity is the mother of invention -- I added a 4 foot length of garden hose to a funnel. I can hang the funnel on the open engine compartment door allowing me two hands to pour the oil in. (I buy my oil in large format gallon jugs when it's on sale) It is a slow fill and I have to use a step stool as the funnel is about six feet in the air, but I have a routine that works and is drip free.

If we are talking about access to perform your own maintenance then I want to add the terrible location of the oil pan drain plug. Mine is right above the front axle meaning I have to balance the waste oil tray on the axle while draining the old oil.

I always manage to spill a cup or so on my driveway every year. I do place a tarp under the engine to prevent a mess but what a pain!
2006 Damon Challenger 348F Ford V10
2013 Ford Taurus SEL AWD
Blue Ox Aventa & Brake Buddy

Dale_Traveling
Explorer II
Explorer II
Try adding 3 gallons of transmission oil, one quart at a time, on a Ford chassis coach. Coolant isn't much better. 12VDC pump is the best option to keep it in the engine and not on the driveway.
2006 Hurricane 31D built on a 2006 Ford F53

Kaz
Explorer
Explorer
rambow wrote:
(snip, snip) My curses upon the Fleetwood engineer and apologies to Ford. It is not the first idiotic construction detail I have found over the last 17 years of owning this coach. (snip, snip)

I'm glad to hear my rig is not the only one where simple maintenance tasks up inside the engine compartment can only be performed by a team of trained monkeys. I still haven't figured out how to change the air filter, but now I know to be careful changing the oil. Thanks for posting this.

Skip
Skip
K4EAK
2013 Thor ACE 30.1

BUTCHPHI
Explorer
Explorer
You hint about difficulty of removing radiator - can you share a little insight or techniques??? Just in case, ha. I've got a 2000 Tropical with the v10, so some day I may face same issue.

rambow
Explorer
Explorer
Petcar wrote:
I see I type too slow, DUCTAPE did a similar fix entered ahead of me.



You have to expect that anyone driving such an advanced coach as the 2903 Newmar is going to be quick off the mark. He probably got the optional warp drive. :@
Bill Rambow
'99 Fleetwood Southwind 36Z - Ford F53 V10 Triton
5 Years US Army & 35 Years US Customs, Retired
RVing with DW, Kids, Grand-Kids and Golden Retrievers since 1977

rambow
Explorer
Explorer
Gjac wrote:
Thanks for your post I have not even thought of this or seen it posted before. The question that I have is if you had known this before you pulled it do you think that you could have cleaned it with the AC condenser blocking the radiator?


No. I had already tried power washing through the front, but because the radiator is completely hidden behind the AC condenser and transmission cooler that are mounted in front of it, it was not only blocked from view, but also from the force of the water. After seeing how bad the blockage was, I'm convinced that even at full force the water would not have budged it. And unless the fins were free of oil residue, which water is not going to accomplish, the problem would have reappeared eventually as bugs and dirt once again built up on the sticky fins.

The only way to completely clean that solidly congealed mess out of the fins would be with a solvent and in the case of this rig, that requires removing the radiator, a time consuming and thus expensive proposition. The cost of the new radiator was a drop in the bucket compared to the labor - a two mechanic job taking a few hours. This is one of those cases where an ounce of prevention really is worth a pound of cure. I hope my sad experience saves others from a similar gooey, pricey fate.
Bill Rambow
'99 Fleetwood Southwind 36Z - Ford F53 V10 Triton
5 Years US Army & 35 Years US Customs, Retired
RVing with DW, Kids, Grand-Kids and Golden Retrievers since 1977

Gjac
Explorer III
Explorer III
Thanks for your post I have not even thought of this or seen it posted before. The question that I have is if you had known this before you pulled it do you think that you could have cleaned it with the AC condenser blocking the radiator?

CA_Traveler
Explorer III
Explorer III
I used PVC to make a fill pipe up to a funnel which is another approach.
2009 Holiday Rambler 42' Scepter with ISL 400 Cummins
750 Watts Solar Morningstar MPPT 60 Controller
2014 Grand Cherokee Overland

Bob

Petcar
Explorer
Explorer
I see I type too slow, DUCTAPE did a similar fix entered ahead of me.
My first RV. They sure have changed...for the better.

Petcar
Explorer
Explorer
Saw same problem when I had an '06 V10. I went to an auto parts store an bought a pump that runs on a portable drill. Pump had hose connections so I could put one end in filler neck and other in oil container. Worked great. The local ford dealer (when I used them) couldn't get rig in side to use their filler hoses. They liked the system. Peter
My first RV. They sure have changed...for the better.

Ductape
Explorer
Explorer
I got tired of dealing with the hard to fill oil neck and bought a 12v oil pump at Northern tool. Now I pump from a large jug into the filler with a hose.
49 States, 6 Provinces, 2 Territories...

rambow
Explorer
Explorer
Bruce Brown wrote:
Thats a bummer, and thanks for the heads-up, but I have to add something; the oil fill issue belongs to the builder of your MH, not the chassis. Back when we had our gasser I did all my own changes as well - filling it was never an issue.

The chassis builder has no idea what the house builder does with it after it leaves the factory.

On a side note, I'm thinking you may be able to recover some of your $$$ by selling your perfectly good, now clean, spare radiator on eBay.


You are correct, Bruce. My curses upon the Fleetwood engineer and apologies to Ford. It is not the first idiotic construction detail I have found over the last 17 years of owning this coach.

After all those years of use I doubt the profit on my used radiator would have been worth the effort to clean it. It's water under the bridge, or sludge under the trash heap, now.
Bill Rambow
'99 Fleetwood Southwind 36Z - Ford F53 V10 Triton
5 Years US Army & 35 Years US Customs, Retired
RVing with DW, Kids, Grand-Kids and Golden Retrievers since 1977