Onan Generator, quits after start.. Update

[chucl66]

This is a follow up question.
5BGE gas powered (2000 Damon Intruder. Have replaced fuel pump and filter, but still shuts off when switch is released. Oil level is full, battery is fully charged. Full tank fresh fuel. It runs until the switch is released
What suggestions do you have to trouble-shoot for additional solutions to the problem?
Thanks for any help.
Chuck

[jwmII]

This symptom has been associated with 2 different parts in the past. 1 is the units voltage regulator. This is the expensive part and most of the time is the problem. A part number for this is 305-0809-01. This is an old number from a job several years ago and might not be relevant now.

The other item that can cause this is a relay. Again an old part number is all I have for that. Part number 307-1886. This is the cheap part and therefore is seldom the problem.

Lack of fuel does not seem to be the problem since it runs as long as you keep the start switch depressed.

[Sam_Spade]

tropical36 wrote:
I mean, I'd like for the engine to run without consideration to what the generator itself might be doing.

It's a safety feature.
If there is no output from the gen....or very low....there is a good chance that something inside is shorted and might start a fire VERY quickly.

[tropical36]

Sam Spade wrote:

chucl66 wrote:
wimpa4K, checked breaker. Flipped off and on, no luck.
May need new, will try that.

In another thread somewhere, someone proposed that folks be BANNED from asking electrical questions if they don't own a multi-meter.

This seems to me to be a good example of why.
Please do NOT just start changing out parts based only on a wild guess.

Sorting through all the replies so far, it would appear that "no voltage output" is the most likely culprit but that a breaker problem is NOT the likely cause. A simple voltage measurement might save you a LOT of time and money.

Well, one must admit that a lot of questions are very vague, with no knowledge or means for following any kind of troubleshooting procedure, that might be suggested. I call it....chasing ghosts in a windstorm....but having said that, when everything else has been said and done, throwing parts at it can still be much cheaper than paying a so called professional. Many of these types change out parts as well, with the difference being that they don't remove or give the customer the old ones that are still perfectly good for having a spare. Did I also mention being charged for them all, plus labor?
As for the OP's problem and using a good meter, if excitation voltage isn't present, while cranking, then that's most likely the problem, but if you have a Generac, like mine, it doesn't care about any kind of voltage output and glad that it doesn't for making troubleshooting much easier. I mean, I'd like for the engine to run without consideration to what the generator itself might be doing.

[bobwalter]

Had the same problem with mine. Replaced the control board and the problem solved.

[chucl66]

Thanks, Chopper Bob and, Sam Spade, for the suggestions.
Will check connections for outputs.

Chuck

[Sam_Spade]

chucl66 wrote:
wimpa4K, checked breaker. Flipped off and on, no luck.
May need new, will try that.

In another thread somewhere, someone proposed that folks be BANNED from asking electrical questions if they don't own a multi-meter.

This seems to me to be a good example of why.
Please do NOT just start changing out parts based only on a wild guess.

Sorting through all the replies so far, it would appear that "no voltage output" is the most likely culprit but that a breaker problem is NOT the likely cause. A simple voltage measurement might save you a LOT of time and money.

[Chopperbob]

Mine did that. Stator, armature, and regulator.
Dealer in Ventura $2,300.

[chucl66]

wimpa4K, checked breaker. Flipped off and on, no luck.
May need new, will try that.

Thanks, Chuck

[chucl66]

Tropical36, thanks for your reply. I used a short hose in a container of fresh fuel.
Not fuel related.

Thanks, Chuck

[winpa4k]

I just had this same thing on a 4000 emerald plus.
No voltage.

I reset the main breaker(it was not tripped) and that fixed. it.

Bob

[tropical36]

chucl66 wrote:
This is a follow up question.
5BGE gas powered (2000 Damon Intruder. Have replaced fuel pump and filter, but still shuts off when switch is released. Oil level is full, battery is fully charged. Full tank fresh fuel. It runs until the switch is released
What suggestions do you have to trouble-shoot for additional solutions to the problem?
Thanks for any help.
Chuck

Just for drill, pull the fuel hose off and use a length for dipping it in a jug of gasoline. If it runs then, you have fuel delivery problems, that are usually caused by the sucking of air. The cure can be as simple as running a new fuel hose back to the tank and if you're lucky.
Having said all this, it doesn't sound like your problem, but you or anyone else, can take it for what it's worth in the future.

[allbrandauto]

mine 2007 5500 had same type of problem would run as long as you held start switch on when letting off switch would die found brushes bad one brush looked like new other brush wore out got new brushes and cleaned armature 3 years later same thing don't know why probably bad armature I just keep replacing brushes every 3 years and all is well

[Tinstar]

You are liable to find that the genset is not producing power. Most of them won't run if they are not producing electricity. May not be anything wrong with the motor itself. There are a few things that cause them not to produce electricity (voltage regulator, brushes, stator).

[FIRE_UP]

chucl66 wrote:
This is a follow up question.
5BGE gas powered (2000 Damon Intruder. Have replaced fuel pump and filter, but still shuts off when switch is released. Oil level is full, battery is fully charged. Full tank fresh fuel. It runs until the switch is released
What suggestions do you have to trouble-shoot for additional solutions to the problem?
Thanks for any help.
Chuck

Chuck,
Wow, does this bring back some OLD, ANCIENT MEMORIES! Let me ask you something here. When you say it runs until the "switch is released",:
1. Are you talking about the start switch/toggle?
2. If so, how long will it run, if you hold on that switch?
3. If it continues to run, as long as you're holding on the switch, I really can't see that it's fuel related but, I'm no expert.
4. If you were to start it, and hold that switch in the start position, (again, assuming it's the START toggle,) and it keeps running, until you let off the switch, I'm going to assume that, for some odd reason, you may be shutting of the spark when letting go of that switch.

I say it brings back ancient memories because, way back a few hundred years ago, GM, Ford and pretty sure Chrysler all had what was called POINTS ignition. (I think some of you "old timers" remember those don't you?). Well, long story short, in most of those POINTS AND CONDENSER operated ignition systems, when you hit the start switch or, turned the key to the start position, you energized the points with a full 12V from the vehicles electrical system.

But, engineers determined that most points, could not operate on the full 12v for very long because it was too much voltage for them so, there was actually 2 systems that fed power to the points. The first was the full 12V that was energized when in the cranking/starting mode. Once the engine caught and was running, you let off the start switch and, that sprung the key back to the "run" position.

In that position, another power system took over the responsibility to feed the coil and the points. But, that system was routed through what's called a "Ballast Resistor". What that resistor did was, step down the voltage to the points to about 8V or so. That kind of lower voltage was more easy on the points and, made them last longer. But, what would happen once in a while, actually more often than most folks knew, was the Ballast resistor would burn out.

When that happened, you would find the EXACT SAME SCENARIO that you're encountering now. The engine would start and run, as long as you kept the key or, start button, in the start position. But, if you let off, the engine would quit. Talk about a bunch of frustration.

Now, I explained all this because, I don't have a clue if your gas generator has anything like that kind of old style starting/running system.

If you keep starting it, and it runs, while holding down the start switch, I'd say you've got enough fuel in the tank. And, I don't know how much fuel that little carb holds but, even if the fuel pump was being shut down due to you letting off the start button/toggle/switch, you should have enough fuel in the carb, to keep it running at least for a short time, maybe a minute or so, or more.

But, it shutting down the micro-second you let off the switch, is what's got me puzzled. Good luck and, please post what you find out is the issue.
Scott

[darsben]

Because oil is full does not mean the low oil pressure switch is engaging to allow the unit to run

I found my link to the troubleshootiing guide

http://www.flightsystems.com/pdf/onan-rv-troubleshooing-guide.pdf