Oven not staying lit

[woleary]

I recently purchased a 2009 Itasca Impulse 32c, Class C motorhome. It only has 5000 miles on it and looks like it has never been used.

It has a Magic chef stove / Oven Model CLY1620BDB, I can not seem to light the Oven.

I can light all three burners on the stove without a problem. And they light with the auto striker knob.
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I can light the pilot on the oven with a match with out a problem and as long as I hold the knob in it stays lit. As soon as I let the knob out or turn the knob the pilot light goes out.
I can't get the oven to light.

I do not believe the oven has ever been used.

Any suggestions on what I should try or what could be wrong.
Thank you

[j-d]

Search around and see if you can find that component in somebody's stock. What happened was some Nanny Agency decreed that those little thermal sensors (like oven thermostats) could no longer contain MERCURY. Everything got re-designed and the fix for older appliances became "get a new one." I wonder what the trade-off is for the environment: A drop of Mercury, or 100-pounds of appliance.

Soapbox: I'm very concerned about the mandate to use Compact Fluorescent Lamps. How many spent CFL's does Nanny think will be disposed of in approved collection points...?

[woleary]

I'm at camping world now. Their tecnition says its a stove gas flow vaulve. They also say its a part that is no longer made so I will have to buy a new stove. Part number 74002413 . uhh thanks

[j-d]

Appliance Parts Pros has an appliance repair forum and apparently addresses RV ranges among the items they can provide parts for. I wouldn't think they have too many RV inquiries, but the forum is still there as an option. I used them a few years ago troubleshooting a washer. Their advice was spot on, they had the parts at a fair price, and they arrived promptly.

[5thwheeleroldma]

Might want to have RV tech adjust gas pressure to stove unit. I had problems for years lighting my oven; had to press down on pilot light for nearly a minute to light it. Had problems later with furnace and tech adjusted gas pressure while searching out that problem. After that my oven pilot lights with only holding down the button for about 8 seconds, or less.

Felt stupid for putting up w/problem so long.

[Jim_Shoe]

My oven was perfectly designed with a single gas burner that runs front to back. That way, it can burn the center two inches of a pizza to a crisp and leave the rest of it frozen. Personally, I use my oven to store my Cuisinart toaster/oven/broiler when I'm moving. In a CG, it sits on top of the counter.

[Dick_A]

As Old-Biscuit mentioned propane often has an oily substance which will cause problems. Also a thermocouple can be bad out of the box. I had that happen a couple months ago when installing a new gas furnace for a tenant at a commercial property I own.

[Old-Biscuit]

woleary wrote:
Thats awesome!!! I'll clean it first, and then see if I can adjust it closer to the flame some how. Having said that the pilot flame is pretty small making me winder if that could be part of the issue.

Pilot flame supply tubing could have blockage.
Mine would barely light with proper propane pressure. I disconnect it at gas control (under top cover) and blew it out with air.
Bunch of sticky oil residue came out.

[woleary]

Thats awesome!!! I'll clean it first, and then see if I can adjust it closer to the flame some how. Having said that the pilot flame is pretty small making me winder if that could be part of the issue.

[Old-Biscuit]

Item #9...Oven Burner Pilot with Thermal Couple



Part Number-----PS2087252 Assembly runs about $30

LINK


Before replacing assembly clean tip of thermocouple and make sure it is fully engulfed in pilot flame.

Heat it using a BBQ lighter and see if main gas will come on.

[Bobbo]

A thermocouple is a metal rod with its tip sticking in a flame. If the flame goes out, the tip gets cold and turns off the gas.

If the tip is not in the flame, it gets cold and turns off the gas.

If the thermocouple goes bad (and they do) it turns off the gas.

If the tip is not in the pilot light's flame, move the tip of it directly into the flame. If it is already in the flame, it is probably bad. Follow the wire back to where it is attached to the valve or control board. (Take a picture so you can put it back like it is.) Take it off the board and take it with you to a big box hardware store, or a plumbing supply house and get a replacement. Put the new one back on like the old one was.

When a pilot light won't stay lit after releasing the button, the thermocouple is ALWAYS the first suspect.

They don't cost much, $10 should get you one. As cheap as they are, when I get that symptom, I just replace it.

[woleary]

The Stove burners work great and I ran all three of them for 10 minutes. So its I don't think its a gas flow issue.

[woleary]

coolmom42 wrote:

donn0128 wrote:
Thermalcouple is not getting hot. Either it is bad or it is not in the pilot flame. Also it does take a couple of minutes to get up to temp. Are you positive your holding the knob in long enough?

Also, make sure the propane is flowing good. Light some of the stove burners and let them burn for a while to make sure the air is out of the lines.

[woleary]

donn0128 wrote:
Thermalcouple is not getting hot. Either it is bad or it is not in the pilot flame. Also it does take a couple of minutes to get up to temp. Are you positive your holding the knob in long enough?

At one point I held the Pilot light on for 5 min. I timed it with my I phone.

Now whats a Thermalcouple?

[naturist]

I'll second the thermocouple. Check to make sure that you hold the button in for a bit, 30 seconds should do it. Also that the thermocouple is actually in the pilot flame. Finally, you may need to replace the thermocouple, which should be a simple project.