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Possible frame rail, hitch receiver issue..

willald
Explorer II
Explorer II
..Was under the Motorhome a few weeks ago, looking at some things, and noticed at the back, where the hitch receiver bolts to the frame, that the frame rails seem to have bent, twisted slightly. I know a discussion like this is worthless without pictures, so I snapped a few pictures, and uploaded them. Here are some pictures of it (hope this works):

..Facing toward the back of RV, driver side frame rail (this one isn't as bad):



..passenger side frame rail:



First off, a few clarifications, to prevent unnecessary 'ranting' posts, or other unnecessary discussion:

Motorhome is a 2012 Georgetown (see signature), built of course, on the Ford V10 F53 chassis. Have owned since brand new, it handles, drives great, same as it did the day we first bought it (have around 15k miles on it now). Have had zero chassis issues, only minor stuff with the coach, that they all have from time to time.

We have towed just two different vehicles with it - Most of the time (and presently), a Ford Fusion, and briefly before that, a Kia Sedona van. Both were towed 4 down (van was towed very briefly at first with a dolly), and both were well under the 5k limit of the hitch receiver. Neither did either bring us even remotely close to the 26k GCWR limit of the Motohrhome. At last weigh-in, Motorhome even fully loaded was a good 1,000 lbs under its 20,500 lb GVWR. Also, a supplemental braking system (Readybrake) was/is always used with both.

After seeing this, I examined the hitch receiver very closely. It is NOT at all unlevel, and seems rock solid. The hitch receiver itself is not what has bent. I have no problem towing with it, and will continue to.


Now, for some questions I have:

Does this look like something I should even be concerned about, something that needs addressing somehow? Or, is this typical, and I just need to not worry about it and move on?

If this is something that needs to be addressed, I'm guessing it'd need to be done by a truck frame shop that can handle welding, etc. Can anyone recommend a good place that could handle such work, around Charlottee, NC area?

Has anyone else seen anything like this, with an F53 chassis Motorhome?
Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")
61 REPLIES 61

Ralph_Cramden
Explorer II
Explorer II
hostage wrote:
willald wrote:
True temper wrote:
How much did the repair cost, if you don't mind me asking?


Always afraid to answer this, as I know where the discussion can go when $$ gets mentioned.

Anyway, was not cheap. However, it was what we agreed to, and about the same as what other places had estimated - $600. This is about what I expected.

I know some are going to say, as always when $$ discussion comes up, that I paid too much, this should've been cheaper. Way I look at it, at least I know it was fixed right, by someone that knows just what they are doing and did exact same repair, same way to their Motorhome. That's worth a few $$. And, when you think about some of the horrible disasters that could've happened if this wasn't addressed.... Suddenly $600 seems very, very cheap.

Will

you know the old story if your happy we are happy but in reality you paid way too much that's a 2-3 hour job and 15.00 materials
anyhow your MH;; your money;; and you seem happy so not my business






True temper wrote:
The reason I asked I sometimes do repair work for others and I was checking the going rate. Looks like a good repair, and a great piece of mind.



Don't do it for Hostage...........He'll want to pay you $45.00 LOL
Too many geezers, self appointed moderators, experts, and disappearing posts for me. Enjoy. How many times can the same thing be rehashed over and over?

True_temper
Explorer
Explorer
The reason I asked I sometimes do repair work for others and I was checking the going rate. Looks like a good repair, and a great piece of mind.

Mr_Mark1
Explorer
Explorer
Willald, the price doesn't seem that bad to me. You are paying for a person that has the knowledge, expertise and a place with tools to do it... WORTH EVERY PENNY!

Enjoy your travels!
MM.
Mr.Mark
2021.5 Pleasure Way Plateau FL Class-B on the Sprinter Chassis
2018 Mini Cooper Hardtop Coupe, 2 dr., 6-speed manual
(SOLD) 2015 Prevost Liberty Coach, 45 ft, 500 hp Volvo
(SOLD) 2008 Monaco Dynasty, 42 ft, 425 hp Cummins

hostage
Explorer
Explorer
willald wrote:
True temper wrote:
How much did the repair cost, if you don't mind me asking?


Always afraid to answer this, as I know where the discussion can go when $$ gets mentioned.

Anyway, was not cheap. However, it was what we agreed to, and about the same as what other places had estimated - $600. This is about what I expected.

I know some are going to say, as always when $$ discussion comes up, that I paid too much, this should've been cheaper. Way I look at it, at least I know it was fixed right, by someone that knows just what they are doing and did exact same repair, same way to their Motorhome. That's worth a few $$. And, when you think about some of the horrible disasters that could've happened if this wasn't addressed.... Suddenly $600 seems very, very cheap.

Will

you know the old story if your happy we are happy but in reality you paid way too much that's a 2-3 hour job and 15.00 materials
anyhow your MH;; your money;; and you seem happy so not my business

willald
Explorer II
Explorer II
True temper wrote:
How much did the repair cost, if you don't mind me asking?


Always afraid to answer this, as I know where the discussion can go when $$ gets mentioned.

Anyway, was not cheap. However, it was what we agreed to, and about the same as what other places had estimated - $600. This is about what I expected.

I know some are going to say, as always when $$ discussion comes up, that I paid too much, this should've been cheaper. Way I look at it, at least I know it was fixed right, by someone that knows just what they are doing and did exact same repair, same way to their Motorhome. That's worth a few $$. And, when you think about some of the horrible disasters that could've happened if this wasn't addressed.... Suddenly $600 seems very, very cheap.

Will
Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")

Beachme
Explorer
Explorer
Looks like they did a nice job on that should have no more problems personally all those frame rail should be reinforced My fram rail sticks out almost 10 feet past my rear axle good luck with it

True_temper
Explorer
Explorer
How much did the repair cost, if you don't mind me asking?

willald
Explorer II
Explorer II
hostage wrote:
Passin Thru wrote:
Backed into a steel pillar? no matter, fix it, use grade 8 bolts, torqued properly and use Locktite.


HUH?


I'm having a hard time following that one, also.

I *think*, Passin Thru is suggesting this damage was caused by backing into something really solid, and that the hitch receiver took the full brunt of the impact of backing into something solid.

Would be just about impossible to do that without other parts of the back end hitting and being damaged much worse (fiberglass end cap, bumper, etc.) I would've known if that happened, haha. ๐Ÿ™‚

Will
Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")

hostage
Explorer
Explorer
Passin Thru wrote:
Backed into a steel pillar? no matter, fix it, use grade 8 bolts, torqued properly and use Locktite.


HUH?

Passin_Thru
Explorer
Explorer
Backed into a steel pillar? no matter, fix it, use grade 8 bolts, torqued properly and use Locktite.

hostage
Explorer
Explorer
willald wrote:
hostage wrote:
interesting ;;looks good ;; If I was doing it I would have ran a 3 inch strap down from top to bottom on the inside at the end of the frame rail area also


Yes, there's several different ways to fix this, and probably several ways more could be added to make it even stronger. Way I look at it, though: The way he did it, is same as what he did on his motorhome, and he tows much more weight than I ever plan to. And he has done so for years without any issues. Soooo, I'm happy with how this was fixed. ๐Ÿ™‚

Will

no problem and agreed just saying I would have added the side end plate

willald
Explorer II
Explorer II
hostage wrote:
interesting ;;looks good ;; If I was doing it I would have ran a 3 inch strap down from top to bottom on the inside at the end of the frame rail area also


Yes, there's several different ways to fix this, and probably several ways more could be added to make it even stronger. Way I look at it, though: The way he did it, is same as what he did on his motorhome, and he tows much more weight than I ever plan to. And he has done so for years without any issues. Soooo, I'm happy with how this was fixed. ๐Ÿ™‚

Will
Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")

hostage
Explorer
Explorer
interesting ;;looks good ;; If I was doing it I would have ran a 3 inch strap down from top to bottom on the inside at the end of the frame rail area also

willald
Explorer II
Explorer II
Update: Well, Friday morning I dropped the Motorhome off at Holbert trailers, they set to work on it. Basically, removed the receiver, straightened out the frame, then welded on a very substantial 'sleeve', about 2 feet long, to the end of each frame rail. Then, of course, put the receiver back on with new, much more stout bolts. It looks VERY solid, the metal sleeves are a thicker steel, substantially thicker, than even the original frame rails.

I took some pictures; They don't show very well how thick, solid this is, but here goes:

Looking from the outside of each frame rail:





..From inside:





I was a little nervous about the wiring back there, as I know I had kind of a mess back there. I had once wired up a 6 round plug that we used with the van that had the Remco lube pump. Then later, wired in a 2nd 6 round plug for the Fusion. They had to take the receiver off, and take all that wiring loose, and re-do all of it.

Not only did they put it all back exactly as it was (already verified that wiring works perfectly with the toad), but they actually cleaned it up, made it look much better than I had it!

He (Raleigh Jr, the owner) showed me pictures of his Motorhome, and the quads he pulls on a flat trailer behind it (he is into hard core off-roading from what I can tell, cool stuff). He fixed this same issue with his Motorhome the same way he did mine, and he pulls stuff MUUCH heavier than I do. I believe him, when he says I'll never have a problem with this, ever again. ๐Ÿ™‚

Anyway, I am very happy, impressed with the work they did. Very professional, friendly, family run business, and they did a great job, and I highly recommend them (Holbert Trailers to anyone in the Charlotte, NC area that needs any work like this done. Was not cheap, but well worth it, to have the work done by someone that clearly knew exactly what they were doing and had considerable experience at it.

Now, next thing I'm going to do, is contact Forest River like discussed earlier, point them to this thread, so at least they know about this issue. Like said before, if my somewhat convervative use of the trailer hitch caused this, I bet there are LOT of Motorhomes out there with twisted frames in the back, that owners may or may not know about.

Thanks again to all, for your comments, suggestions on this. ๐Ÿ™‚
Will and Cheryl
2021 Newmar Baystar 3014 on F53 (7.3 V8) Chassis ("Brook")
2018 Jeep Wrangler JK ("Wilbur")