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Power out on generator

revrick3
Explorer
Explorer
2003 Mountain Aire. Full time now and have been hooked to shore power for about a month. Cut off shore power today to run genny awhile to exercise it. Generator fired up went inside to cut on some items to work it and I had no power anywhere on 110 volts. 12 volts was working but nothing 110. Checked switches in breaker box, switches on generator and all was on. Cut it all off and put back on shore power and all was well again. I did this several times with no luck. Checked batteries. Did not see any bad or loose connections. Water levels good. Showed power at batteries was good. Thought it might be converter switch sticking but not sure. Did not see a fuse bad at converter and all looks okay. Bumped converter box couple of times hoping it was stuck switch but no luck. Surge protector on shore power was on and all lights showed power was good. New surge protector. Can you guys give me some help. I am still learning and not a electrician but can deal with some things. Thanks for help.
2003 38 ft. Newmar Mountain Aire, We call it Tyger, Serious Clemson Tiger fans. Honda Accord Toad, Wife myself and our Coco who loves to travel as much as we do
20 REPLIES 20

enblethen
Nomad
Nomad
OP:
Locate and post make and model of your transfer switch

Bud
USAF Retired
Pace Arrow


2003 Chev Ice Road Tracker

Bill_Satellite
Explorer II
Explorer II
Use a voltage meter inside the transfer switch. You will see income and outgoing power. Check it while on shore power and you will see power top and bottom of the switches. I would leave the shore power plugged in and turn on the genset. You should have a noticeable switching of power and the shore power will be disconnected. If your generator input has power at the transfer switch but no transfer took place the transfer switch is bad. If you still do not see any power in that box other than shore power your problem is elsewhere.
Please be careful when working with live 120V connections.
What I post is my 2 cents and nothing more. Please don't read anything into my post that's not there. If you disagree, that's OK.
Can't we all just get along?

DrewE
Explorer II
Explorer II
Just to be sure, though I suspect it is true: you did wait a minute or two after starting the generator for the power to appear, right? There is a time delay (typically around 30 seconds or so) on a transfer switch before it switches to generator power so as to let the generator get up to its proper running speed before applying a load to it.

If you happen to have a gizmo like a PI EMS wired after the transfer switch that also has a time delay before applying power, those two time delays will happen in succession, so it could be a few minutes before the coach has power in that case.

ricklord2001
Explorer
Explorer
dougrainer wrote:
revrick3 wrote:
This is getting pretty confusing now, so many differing ideas. This might be beyond my expertise. Don't want to get electrocuted. Have volt meter and can test volts at switch will attempt this tomorrow. When looking at switch with cover open I don't see any contacts to stick. I am familiar with points sets as I used to put points in auto years ago. Don't see any in switch. Just many wires hooked into lugs. Are points behind this switch?


Current and still an RV Tech for 37 years, SOOO, you can take my advice to the bank. What you are doing is NOT the contac POINTS in the box. You will see heavy duty wires (Black/Red/White/Green, maybe copper instead of green). You will see if the box has screw mounts the RED/BLACK/WHITE in line 3 times. 2 sets on one side and 1 set on the backside of the relays. The 2 sets side by side will be the Genset and Shore Power inputs. You are measuring the White to Black and White to RED on each set. Most Transfers the set will be labeled on a schematic, but for your test we don't care. With Shore Power disconnected and the Genset ON, all you want to do is see if one of those Red/Black/Whites have 120 between the White and Red and the White and Black. IF YOU DO (odds are you will) then the Transfer box is bad and needs replaced. If you have NO 120 power in that transfer box, then the problem is probably the Genset. But, since you are a little confused, get someone else that has more confidence to check the power at the transfer box. Doug

Good advice from Doug I strongly agree.

usersmanual
Explorer
Explorer
doug I thought the Gen set would not stay running if not producing and voltage? yes? no?
I mean obviously as u say if theres no power at the TS then its a gen problem but was just wondering

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
revrick3 wrote:
This is getting pretty confusing now, so many differing ideas. This might be beyond my expertise. Don't want to get electrocuted. Have volt meter and can test volts at switch will attempt this tomorrow. When looking at switch with cover open I don't see any contacts to stick. I am familiar with points sets as I used to put points in auto years ago. Don't see any in switch. Just many wires hooked into lugs. Are points behind this switch?


Current and still an RV Tech for 37 years, SOOO, you can take my advice to the bank. What you are doing is NOT the contac POINTS in the box. You will see heavy duty wires (Black/Red/White/Green, maybe copper instead of green). You will see if the box has screw mounts the RED/BLACK/WHITE in line 3 times. 2 sets on one side and 1 set on the backside of the relays. The 2 sets side by side will be the Genset and Shore Power inputs. You are measuring the White to Black and White to RED on each set. Most Transfers the set will be labeled on a schematic, but for your test we don't care. With Shore Power disconnected and the Genset ON, all you want to do is see if one of those Red/Black/Whites have 120 between the White and Red and the White and Black. IF YOU DO (odds are you will) then the Transfer box is bad and needs replaced. If you have NO 120 power in that transfer box, then the problem is probably the Genset. But, since you are a little confused, get someone else that has more confidence to check the power at the transfer box. Doug

usersmanual
Explorer
Explorer
revrick3 wrote:
This is getting pretty confusing now, so many differing ideas. This might be beyond my expertise. Don't want to get electrocuted. Have volt meter and can test volts at switch will attempt this tomorrow. When looking at switch with cover open I don't see any contacts to stick. I am familiar with points sets as I used to put points in auto years ago. Don't see any in switch. Just many wires hooked into lugs. Are points behind this switch?


different TS use different style relays there not all the same in design and style they just all perform the same function
most likely best to replace yours and be done

revrick3
Explorer
Explorer
This is getting pretty confusing now, so many differing ideas. This might be beyond my expertise. Don't want to get electrocuted. Have volt meter and can test volts at switch will attempt this tomorrow. When looking at switch with cover open I don't see any contacts to stick. I am familiar with points sets as I used to put points in auto years ago. Don't see any in switch. Just many wires hooked into lugs. Are points behind this switch?
2003 38 ft. Newmar Mountain Aire, We call it Tyger, Serious Clemson Tiger fans. Honda Accord Toad, Wife myself and our Coco who loves to travel as much as we do

MrWizard
Moderator
Moderator
rgatijnet1 wrote:
Before I would take the cover off of the transfer switch, I would plug in to shore power again and see if it clicks. If it clicks, the transfer switch is OK.
There is no need to do that again with the generator running.
If the transfer switch does not click when you start the generator, check the circuit breaker on the generator itself. These may be difficult to find on some generators but it should be on the front side. Try resetting the circuit breaker and see if that fixes your problem. If not, it may be time to contact someone to service your generator.


Maybe not
A 50amp transfer switch will contain two relays
It's a rare failure, but just because the shore side clicks, does not mean the the generator side , input relay is working correctly
Could be loose connections or stuck relay
The best transfer switches contain a mechanical interlock between the two relays an it's impossible to engage the other power source if one side has power, great safety protection
However if the interlock sticks, it is impossible to engage the other source even with power off

I would disconnect shore power unplug it
Turn off inverter no 120vac of any kind no tv blah blah
Then open the transfer switch and make sure every thing that should move does, check all connections,
Then with cover off
Start generator and OBSERVE what happens
I can explain it to you.
But I Can Not understand it for you !

....

Connected using T-Mobile Home internet and Visible Phone service
1997 F53 Bounder 36s

wa8yxm
Explorer III
Explorer III
Suspects in linier order

Generator (NOTE:L Onan generators self check and shut down if not making power)
Circuit breaker(s) on Generator (#1 Suspect in Suspect order)
Connecitons and wires Generator to Trnasfer switch (Very rare)
Transfer switch (Suspect #2 in Suspect order IF YOU HAVE ONE)

Note some RV's do not have a manual Transfer swith, you need to MANUALLY transfer the plug to an outlet loacted on the RV usually near the bay where the cord stores.
Home was where I park it. but alas the.
2005 Damon Intruder 377 Alas declared a total loss
after a semi "nicked" it. Still have the radios
Kenwood TS-2000, ICOM ID-5100, ID-51A+2, ID-880 REF030C most times

dougrainer
Nomad
Nomad
rgatijnet1 wrote:
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Just because it clicks does not mean it doesn't have burned contacts on the generator side. I dislike transfer switches.

rgatijnet1 wrote:
Before I would take the cover off of the transfer switch, I would plug in to shore power again and see if it clicks. If it clicks, the transfer switch is OK.
There is no need to do that again with the generator running.
If the transfer switch does not click when you start the generator, check the circuit breaker on the generator itself. These may be difficult to find on some generators but it should be on the front side. Try resetting the circuit breaker and see if that fixes your problem. If not, it may be time to contact someone to service your generator.


If the power is transferring on shore power when it clicks, then the power will transfer on generator, if the generator has output. It is the same contacts on the output.


WRONG assumption. Just because it transfers power on Shore does NOT mean the genset side is operating. There are 2 seperate relay's for each side and one can burn out or fail while the other operates. There are different modes of various Transfer switches. Depends on the model Transfer switch. 1 model the shore power relay STAY CLOSED and you will not hear a click when shore power is connected. Others, you will hear that click when connecting shore power because each relay is already OPEN. YOU WILL ALWAYS HEAR A CLICK WHEN ON GENSET AFTER THE 45 SECOND DELAY OF TRANSFER, REGARDLESS OF MODEL. That is why I stated to check for 120 power at the Genset input at the Transfer switch. That is the easiest, quickest thing to do. Doing anything else is a big waste of time. Doug

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
pianotuna wrote:
Hi,

Just because it clicks does not mean it doesn't have burned contacts on the generator side. I dislike transfer switches.

rgatijnet1 wrote:
Before I would take the cover off of the transfer switch, I would plug in to shore power again and see if it clicks. If it clicks, the transfer switch is OK.
There is no need to do that again with the generator running.
If the transfer switch does not click when you start the generator, check the circuit breaker on the generator itself. These may be difficult to find on some generators but it should be on the front side. Try resetting the circuit breaker and see if that fixes your problem. If not, it may be time to contact someone to service your generator.


If the power is transferring on shore power when it clicks, then the power will transfer on generator, if the generator has output. It is the same contacts on the output.

pianotuna
Nomad III
Nomad III
Hi,

Just because it clicks does not mean it doesn't have burned contacts on the generator side. I dislike transfer switches.

rgatijnet1 wrote:
Before I would take the cover off of the transfer switch, I would plug in to shore power again and see if it clicks. If it clicks, the transfer switch is OK.
There is no need to do that again with the generator running.
If the transfer switch does not click when you start the generator, check the circuit breaker on the generator itself. These may be difficult to find on some generators but it should be on the front side. Try resetting the circuit breaker and see if that fixes your problem. If not, it may be time to contact someone to service your generator.
Regards, Don
My ride is a 28 foot Class C, 256 watts solar, 556 amp-hours of Telcom jars, 3000 watt Magnum hybrid inverter, Sola Basic Autoformer, Microair Easy Start.

rgatijnet1
Explorer III
Explorer III
revrick3 wrote:
Checked all breakers and ok. I made mistake about bumping converter, I meant transfer switch. Pulled off cover and all looks okay. When on shore power it hums and clicks when cutting on power. When cutting on genny nothing, no click or hum. How can I tell if the switch is bad or if genny not sending power to switch>


Did you check the breakers in your Main electrical panel or the small breakers that are right on the generator? Reset the breaker ON the generator.