Repairing fogged windows

[poecat]

The 2001 Winnie that I just purchased has a couple of themo-pain (pun intended) windows that are fogged. I am going to take apart and reseal as I have read several posts of doing. Any advice or diy posts that will guide me through this? The worse one is the front passenger window (the front of the slide window beside the mirror). Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Keith

[Jim_Cindy]

smlranger wrote:

Jim Cindy wrote:

The Texan wrote:
RV Fog Doctor is not to far from you and has a good reputation. The best though is Suncoast Window Designers in Hudson FL, if you are going to get down that way....

Do you or anyone on the forum have an idea what the cost is to have windows repaire at Suncoast. Thanks, Jim

Jim, I am having 4 of my windows done at Suncoast on December 9 -10. I will report back on pricing.

Thanks, we will be in the area about Jan. 7

[rayhough]

Here is a link to Atwoodmobile, they are the manufactures of most RV windows. I talked to Sue, she found mine for a 2000 Monaco for $150 each.

http://easyrvwindows.com/
Ray

[smlranger]

Jim Cindy wrote:

The Texan wrote:
RV Fog Doctor is not to far from you and has a good reputation. The best though is Suncoast Window Designers in Hudson FL, if you are going to get down that way....

Do you or anyone on the forum have an idea what the cost is to have windows repaire at Suncoast. Thanks, Jim

Jim, I am having 4 of my windows done at Suncoast on December 9 -10. I will report back on pricing.

[The_Texan]

Pass42 wrote:
Were any of your windows etched on the inside???? I understand that sometimes that is an issue, preventing just doing the resealing........

No, but if they are, there is a very small upcharge for "new" glass to replace the etched pane.

[Pass42]

Were any of your windows etched on the inside???? I understand that sometimes that is an issue, preventing just doing the resealing........

[The_Texan]

Suncoast did mine for $250 each, with a 5 year warranty.

[Jim_Cindy]

The Texan wrote:
RV Fog Doctor is not to far from you and has a good reputation. The best though is Suncoast Window Designers in Hudson FL, if you are going to get down that way....

Do you or anyone on the forum have an idea what the cost is to have windows repaire at Suncoast. Thanks, Jim

[wildmanbaker]

I have done several of our windows, and yes, it is doable for a DIY project. I used a sharpened 1.5" putty knife to cut the seals on the first window. It took forever. I then used a Oscillating Multifunction Power Tool with a flat sharp cutter blade to cut the seals, what a difference. Only takes about 10 minutes to do a whole window. Be carful with this tool as it will scratch the glass, if not used carefully. You need to use the required super spacer of the correct size. For the edge seal both the recommended sealing caulk, and 3M windshield sealer. I recommended the windshield sealer, as it seems to make a tighter, more secure seal than the recommended sealer. Just check the date on the tube as it is only good for 1 year after the date. I did ours in early March this last year, and choose days that were warm and dry, and did the edge sealing outside, and used weight to insure the panes of glass were tight and would fit back in the frames.

[MountainAir05]

tiffinboy wrote:

MountainAir05 wrote:
I did all my a few years back. To figure out the space size just scrape or cut the window glaze back. I use the one that slides. Once you get a small area clean you can measure the space between the panes. Back then a 66 foot roll cost around $60 and the sealant that seals the spacer was right at $10 per windows. Takes just about one tube per window. I have 8 windows so had two rolls of spacer with a lot left over and one tube of sealant per window. The first one took a day to take out clean and repair and put back in. After that two per day easy. Cheaper that the several hundreds per window. Pm me if you need any more info.

how do u vacuum seal the unit(what factory does) once its clean so u don't get condensation??

I happen to live where it is dry. Super spacer sealant is a single component urethane not silicone. The spacer has desiccant build into the spacer which does have silicone in it. If you read up on Super Spacer system you will get the answer. I took two pieces of glass and installed the spacer and seal as instructed. Let dry for 24 hours and stuck it into a five gallon bucket with a brick on it. Fill with water. Took it out a week later , no leaks. This was left out in the New Mexico sun. The spacer is recess 1/4 inch from the glass edge. The super spacer sealant is then applied to the edge of the window to fill the space. All should be done within an hour. try this link. http://www.quanex.com/Architect/Products/Product-Detail.aspx?Id=43

Here is the home page. good reading.
http://edgetechig.co.uk/

[BobsYourUncle]

Jim Cindy wrote:
How do you keep moisture out of the air that is between the panes to prevent fogging or condensation during temperature changes.

If it is done inside a heated dry shop, or garage or similar, there will not be an issue of fogging up or condensation.

The spacer bar typically contains an internal desiccant which absorbs any stray moisture that may be there when the glass is sealed. The spacer bar has small internal holes that face inward to the unit so the moisture is absorbed through these holes.

[BobsYourUncle]

The sealing process is done with a few different materials.

One is polysulphide, which is a 2 part liquid kind of rubber mix. They get mixed in the machine then applied to the perimeter of the two pieces of glass, against the spacer bar, to provide an airtight seal between the two pieces.

Another is silicone seal, same process, different material. Silicone seal is a better choice for things like horizontal glazing, as in skylight units in houses.

Silicone sealing is better than polysulphide for durability and longevity.

[Jim_Cindy]

How do you keep moisture out of the air that is between the panes to prevent fogging or condensation during temperature changes.

[BobsYourUncle]

tiffinboy wrote:


how do u vacuum seal the unit(what factory does) once its clean so u don't get condensation??

Contrary to what a lot of folks think, it is not a vacuum seal.
It is only sealed so no air gets in or out.
Air pressure is the same in and out.

[tiffinboy]

MountainAir05 wrote:
I did all my a few years back. To figure out the space size just scrape or cut the window glaze back. I use the one that slides. Once you get a small area clean you can measure the space between the panes. Back then a 66 foot roll cost around $60 and the sealant that seals the spacer was right at $10 per windows. Takes just about one tube per window. I have 8 windows so had two rolls of spacer with a lot left over and one tube of sealant per window. The first one took a day to take out clean and repair and put back in. After that two per day easy. Cheaper that the several hundreds per window. Pm me if you need any more info.

how do u vacuum seal the unit(what factory does) once its clean so u don't get condensation??

[MountainAir05]

I did all my a few years back. To figure out the space size just scrape or cut the window glaze back. I use the one that slides. Once you get a small area clean you can measure the space between the panes. Back then a 66 foot roll cost around $60 and the sealant that seals the spacer was right at $10 per windows. Takes just about one tube per window. I have 8 windows so had two rolls of spacer with a lot left over and one tube of sealant per window. The first one took a day to take out clean and repair and put back in. After that two per day easy. Cheaper that the several hundreds per window. Pm me if you need any more info.