Shiny RV with Red Max Pro (pics)

[EMD360]

How many of you use this stuff? We were getting that chalky finish with faded and peeling graphics. I was waxing it with Meguiars--trying to avoid the graphics and spray them with 303 Protectant instead. I spray the dirt off after almost every trip too. We've only had it 15 months--I hated to see it get "old looking" under my care.
Replant just mentioned Lowes Red Max Pro and I read the links. Wow! Why not take the chance that the fiberglass would be looking shiny and new?
It worked! Here are a few pics.

The graphics bleed out color when washed.

And they were peeling up at the edges. I took a flat razor blade holder and trimmed off the peeling edges--

This is after the trimming. They are a bit ragged in places, but at least no longer peeling.

I used my little power sprayer with TSP in it and scrubbed with Bar Keeper's Friend as recommended.

This is the tire cover with one side is just washed with a sponge and TSP, the other is washed with a green scrubbie and Bar Keeper's Friend. I also used the white scrubbie (1000 grit sandpaper grade and much more expensive) for scratches--it did wonders even on the cab metal but for most of the job I used the cheap green stuff. I completely wore out 4 half sheets!

This is a "before" of the cleaned passenger side.

Red Max Pro Step 3 ready to apply.

Finished! It took me about 10 hours to do the job.

Plus I washed and waxed the cab. But by this time I was losing daylight so it is harder to see the shine.
I'm really pleased with the results. The recommendation is a new coat every year--that is a lot longer time period than waxing.
This was a good project for the start of a great season. I think it was worth the effort!

[eric1514]

monika4555 wrote:
I have two questions if someone would be kind enough to answer them for me. I just purchased the Red Max Pro to do my 88 Honeybee Motor Home.

First, I am not sure if I got the right one, is it the one that says Low Maintenance Floor Finish Step 3 on the bottle? There were others with different numbers so I am just making sure would hate to use the wrong one.

Second, is there an easy way to remove the old graphics and stripes? Mine are cracked very bad and not really sure on how to get them off.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Monika

Don't know about graphics removal, but the jug of Low Maint. Floor Finish Step 3 is the correct stuff.

Eric

[4x4van]

Most of us have been using the "microfiber" rags that are currently showing up in the automotive wash sections of your local auto parts stores, Walmart, etc.

[bacabunch]

What kind of rag is everyone using to apply the Red Max?

[Retired_JSO]

monika4555, Bacabunch

My graphics were curling along the sides and faded, cracked etc. I used a Wall paper steamer to remove most of them along with a plastic putty knife. A few required real man power but most came off easy.

Yes I used Red Max Pro # 3 Low Maintenance Floor Finish.

[bacabunch]

Retired JSO wrote:
I did this last week to my 2004 filon sided fifth wheel. It had sat in the harsh Florida sun from Aug 2003 until I bought it as a new leftover unit in December 2005. The nose and tail caps are PVC and were badly chalking as were the sides. I must say, it did a fabulous job for an old looking well used camper. We just put up the new RV cover a few weeks ago so working out of the sun was fun. Last spring, I removed the old graphics by taping off where the old had been and painted on new graphics with Krylon paint from Walmart saving over $1,000 instead of new graphics. You might be able to see in the cap before photos where I removed the old graphics. In the after photo, most of the white where the graphics was is now not as noticeable. I was going to apply an automotive clear coat this spring until I started reading about Red Max Pro on several websites.

I decided to do the floor polish instead. Thanks to everyone who tried this experiment befor me.

Before:

After:


The sides now look new:

WOW! That looks great! That is exactly the look I want! I will definitely take before and after pictures. Did you you red max pro 3?

[monika4555]

I have two questions if someone would be kind enough to answer them for me. I just purchased the Red Max Pro to do my 88 Honeybee Motor Home.

First, I am not sure if I got the right one, is it the one that says Low Maintenance Floor Finish Step 3 on the bottle? There were others with different numbers so I am just making sure would hate to use the wrong one.

Second, is there an easy way to remove the old graphics and stripes? Mine are cracked very bad and not really sure on how to get them off.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Monika

[Retired_JSO]

I did this last week to my 2004 filon sided fifth wheel. It had sat in the harsh Florida sun from Aug 2003 until I bought it as a new leftover unit in December 2005. The nose and tail caps are PVC and were badly chalking as were the sides. I must say, it did a fabulous job for an old looking well used camper. We just put up the new RV cover a few weeks ago so working out of the sun was fun. Last spring, I removed the old graphics by taping off where the old had been and painted on new graphics with Krylon paint from Walmart saving over $1,000 instead of new graphics. You might be able to see in the cap before photos where I removed the old graphics. In the after photo, most of the white where the graphics was is now not as noticeable. I was going to apply an automotive clear coat this spring until I started reading about Red Max Pro on several websites.

I decided to do the floor polish instead. Thanks to everyone who tried this experiment befor me.

Before:

After:


The sides now look new:

[EMD360]

You will want the graphics to shine too so don't try to avoid them.
The Red Max fixed the color bleeding for me. The graphics were fading from the sun and I think that was making the color bleed off. I should not have scrubbed them with the Bar Keepers because that is an abrasive that probably worsened the color bleed. So just wash the decals with detergent--whatever works for your best cleaning job--Dawn, TSP, Greased Lighting. The edges were curling up on mine too and I didn't want that to break the surface of the Red Max Pro so I trimmed them with a flat razor--they don't look great but they are not curling anymore either.
The Bar Keepers takes off the chalky surface that older fiberglass gets, then you have the nice smooth surface to apply Red Max over the whole side even the decals. Then the surface is protected for future washes. As everyone says the Red Max is the easy part. It goes on smoothly as long as you wring out your cloth so it doesn't drip and it didn't make the graphics bleed at all during application. A colored cloth might bleed out so use white or light gray.
Take before and after photos. You will be amazed at the difference.

[bacabunch]

EMD360 wrote:
How many of you use this stuff? We were getting that chalky finish with faded and peeling graphics. I was waxing it with Meguiars--trying to avoid the graphics and spray them with 303 Protectant instead. I spray the dirt off after almost every trip too. We've only had it 15 months--I hated to see it get "old looking" under my care.
Replant just mentioned Lowes Red Max Pro and I read the links. Wow! Why not take the chance that the fiberglass would be looking shiny and new?
It worked! Here are a few pics.

The graphics bleed out color when washed.

And they were peeling up at the edges. I took a flat razor blade holder and trimmed off the peeling edges--

This is after the trimming. They are a bit ragged in places, but at least no longer peeling.

I used my little power sprayer with TSP in it and scrubbed with Bar Keeper's Friend as recommended.

This is the tire cover with one side is just washed with a sponge and TSP, the other is washed with a green scrubbie and Bar Keeper's Friend. I also used the white scrubbie (1000 grit sandpaper grade and much more expensive) for scratches--it did wonders even on the cab metal but for most of the job I used the cheap green stuff. I completely wore out 4 half sheets!

This is a "before" of the cleaned passenger side.

Red Max Pro Step 3 ready to apply.

Finished! It took me about 10 hours to do the job.

Plus I washed and waxed the cab. But by this time I was losing daylight so it is harder to see the shine.
I'm really pleased with the results. The recommendation is a new coat every year--that is a lot longer time period than waxing.
This was a good project for the start of a great season. I think it was worth the effort!

I can't believe I'm this excited to do all this work! One last question about the color bleading from the decals. Is this caused by the Red Max? Did the colors fade from the decals? Can you just avoid hitting them with the Red Max?

Thanks,
Ben

[Romer1]

bacabunch wrote:

Romer1 wrote:
JASON, no buffing required. I used Dawn and Bar Keepers. found that using both and power rinsing 2x gave a much better starting point. Prep is hardest part.

BACABUNCH, still pleased with it, required no buffing. After doing that one section, I finished that side one afternoon, then the following weekend, did the drivers side and rear.that's when I discovered using Barkeepers on the whole side made a better starting surface.

I just picked up the Red Max and the Bar Keeper. What does the Bar Keeper actually do? I have a little fading, but no rust or streaks? Does this scratch the surface?

Thanks,
Ben

Bar keepers is a cleanser, but doesn't scratch. As it name implies, it's used for cleaning barware. Use it to help remove discolorations, black spots,etc. and/or oxidation. It gives a nice non-powdery surface to start with.

[bacabunch]

Romer1 wrote:
JASON, no buffing required. I used Dawn and Bar Keepers. found that using both and power rinsing 2x gave a much better starting point. Prep is hardest part.

BACABUNCH, still pleased with it, required no buffing. After doing that one section, I finished that side one afternoon, then the following weekend, did the drivers side and rear.that's when I discovered using Barkeepers on the whole side made a better starting surface.

I just picked up the Red Max and the Bar Keeper. What does the Bar Keeper actually do? I have a little fading, but no rust or streaks? Does this scratch the surface?

Thanks,
Ben

[Jason_Nipp]

Thanks Cali-Boondocker and Romer.

[Romer1]

JASON, no buffing required. I used Dawn and Bar Keepers. found that using both and power rinsing 2x gave a much better starting point. Prep is hardest part.

BACABUNCH, still pleased with it, required no buffing. After doing that one section, I finished that side one afternoon, then the following weekend, did the drivers side and rear.that's when I discovered using Barkeepers on the whole side made a better starting surface.

[bacabunch]

Romer1 wrote:
Here's a before/after of my 94 Adventurer



Taken today, plan to finish next week.

Apply a thin coat and let it dry. Give it 4 coats and you're done, no buffing.

The reflection is a metal garage.

This looks great, are you still pleased with the result? Did you have to buff it? did you do small areas or big areas? Does it dry fast?

Thanks,
Ben

[California_Boon]

With regard to Jason Nipp's questions above:

No, the Red Max does not require buffing out between applications.
I, too, had some fiberglass weave and yes, the Red Max sealed up it nicely.
The prep is indeed the longest and hardest part, but the end result is worth it.
If it were me, I would do my caulking ahead of time.

Hope this helps.