sticky black tank release valve

[Tonijim]

Our black tank release valve is increasingly difficult to pull open. Is there a product which would help or am I looking at a new valve? Thanks.

Jim

[Bordercollie]

Maybe pour Metamucil down the toilet?

[Tonijim]

To J-D - apparently a Four Winds (Thor) feature on some models. The passenger side valve holds the black water until both valves are released. We open the traditional dual valve black (driver's side) then the passenger side, allowing the cross camper pipe to release. We reverse when we close the system. Caused some confusion when we first used it as the rig was a new to us 2010. We'll try lubricating the passenger side valve rod when next we empty. As long-time rv'ers say - it's always something.

Jim

[garyhaupt]

Tonijim wrote:
Thanks for the thoughtful responses. I should have said that our rig is a 33' Four Winds Freedom Elite with two valves to empty the black tank - one directly on the passenger side under the toilet and the other on the driver's side in tandem with the grey tank valve. The sticky valve is under the toilet. Don't know whether that changes any responses. Thanks again.

Jim

Nope..lubricate that rod.


Gary Haupt

[PSW]

This is the first RV I have owned with the Sanicom system and it includes a flush valve for black and one for gray and a water hose connection. I love it and it seems to really help the sticky valve situation.

Before, I have used the old coconut oil trick in the tanks when the rig is going to not be used a while and it seems to help keep the sticky or leaking valves in better shape.

I have thought about flushing the tanks and then pouring about five gallons of hot soapy water into them and letting it set for a while.

As to the rods or cables (I have had both) I just clean them ocasionally and lubricate. I use a grease the garage door repair guy gave me to lubricate the rollers on the door. It is great stuff and is a light white lithium grease.

Anyone tried to help valves with a few gallons of hot water in the tanks?

Paul

[j-d]

Tonijim wrote:
...33' Four Winds Freedom Elite with two valves to empty the black tank - one directly on the passenger side under the toilet and the other on the driver's side in tandem with the grey tank valve...

Perplexingly fascinating! Am I correct in thinking the two valves are "in series" where both have to be open to dump out the sewer hose connection, but you could leave one open and then dump from the other?

[dakdave]

when mine got sticky and hard to pull i lubed the pull rod with plumbers grease,Feed it up nicely,now lube it regularly.smear on rod and work back and forth a few times

[Tonijim]

Thanks for the thoughtful responses. I should have said that our rig is a 33' Four Winds Freedom Elite with two valves to empty the black tank - one directly on the passenger side under the toilet and the other on the driver's side in tandem with the grey tank valve. The sticky valve is under the toilet. Don't know whether that changes any responses. Thanks again.

Jim

[garyhaupt]

kevden wrote:
The flush valve on our toilet had been sticking. I sprayed silicone into the toilet and the valve works better than new. Maybe you could spray some up into the drain valve from the slinky hose connector? Or, pour a bottle of silicone detailing/protectant spray into the tank?

Not wishing to create waves...but I am thinking that pouring some into the tank itself isn't going to lube the cable or rod...they are outside the tank itself.

Gary Haupt

[Mocoondo]

Silicone spray works for a while, but if you don't want to keep treating it, get a toilet brush with a long handle and a cheap can of grease. Every once in a while, run the greased toilet brush up your termination valve and give it a few turns around each valve when they are open. You can thank me later.

[kevden]

The flush valve on our toilet had been sticking. I sprayed silicone into the toilet and the valve works better than new. Maybe you could spray some up into the drain valve from the slinky hose connector? Or, pour a bottle of silicone detailing/protectant spray into the tank?

[Gjac]

I put a grease fitting on mine and just pump a few shots of grease when ever it get hard to pull. It is always the black valve that sticks. I put one on both but the grey never really needs it.

[garyhaupt]

If it's accessible you can lubricate it. Whether cable or rod. Off to a hardware place and buy a pray can of something slippery. Not WD40...that dries up/evaporates.
Liberal application will take care of it. There is no need to take it apart and install new...otherwise we'd be doing that for everything stiff or squeaky gizmo we all own.


Gary Haupt

[j-d]

This won't free a stuck valve, but it may ease things over time: Add some Soap. Gray tank valves rarely stick. Of course part of that is, there's less blade area to get stuck. But also, they benefit from soap and grease as part of dish- and hand-washing. Black tanks don't get that, just sticky, well, you know what. We tend to fill gray faster than black. So, I do a little "tank blending" by putting some soapy dishwater in it once in awhile.

A tank flushing system probably helps keep the blade seal area a little cleaner, too. We don't have one, so I've installed a valve to shut water to the toilet off, and a block to hold the toilet's flush blade handle in the open (flush) position. Then I dump a couple large buckets of water (say 03 gallons each) down the toilet as smoothly as I can. That breaks down the "pyramid" that can form right below the toilet, and it seems to help, along with soap, keep the valve moving and even reduces seeping.

Remember this little goodie from Valterra



It lets you add a new valve to where your dump hose connects. If your built-in valve(s) become leaky or won't operate, (as long as they're OPEN or you can get them open), you can control leakage with that new valve.

[garyemunson]

Just put a new valve on. Any chemical fix will be temporary at best A new valve will give you another 7-10 years without having to deal with it.