Upgrading to a dif Toilet, Flange is stuck???

[jeffwhite]

1. Have a 97 Rexhall Vision 29 and I'm replacing the Thetford stock toilet with a Dometic REv 310 toilet. Got the old one off and I need to spin the toilet flange because the new on lines up typically like a
household toilet with the mounting bolts at 3 and 9(clock) respectively (side to side)as opposed the the 11 and 5 lineup like the Thetford older toilets. I pull all the screws out and can't get the flange up. It is "one" with that "downpipe"(??) that goes into the black tank. I can see that it looks to have been glued (one of the pics shows this). Still would think the whole assembly would lift out. I get some movement in prying it, but don't want to force it. There are no surface screw mounted, all are out. It doesn't seem to be attached to the black tank as when I move it, the tank stays perfectly still. Any thoughts? If it isn't coming out, I could drill holes, turning them into slots for the bolts in the new position I guess. Wouldn't be able to undercut them though to keep them from spinning.



2. It also seems that the newer (higher) toilet will not be very stable as the base does not have the same size footprint as the Thetford. Has anyone ever upgraded their Thetford to a more "pedastle" styled toilet? (on rug)
3. Also, am having issues with the traditional style water lines shown in the pics as they leak. I think I "knicked" the male barb that the pipe goes over when cutting off the old pipe, now that I think about it and try to figure out why it's not sealing. Does anyone have a better assembly for this situation? I would like to have something more flexible too.


4. Refering to the pic showing the water valve on the old Thetford, does this come off?

It looks to, but it won't budge and I'm worried about breaking it. The new toilet has a large threaded area for the water inlet that isn't at all like the Thetford, unless, that old part comes off and threads onto the new one?????

[jeffwhite]

I'll try the brass lags first, no harm/no foul on that one...and easy. The flange doesn't really have to come off anyway. Thanks for all the help, really! jeff

[MountainAir05]

jeffwhite wrote:
The Rv is on the other side of town and I'm going by memory as I had to reinstall the old toilet (as my Mother in Law is living in it). I'm pretty sure that the inside is flush (with a seam)in transition from the flange, to the downpipe. I could be wrong, but am pretty sure. Is that how the screw in one's work?
Anyway, I like Dougs suggestion as I DO have a straight down pipe, I can see the bottom of the tank easily. I"m just worried that if I put clockwise pressure on the downpipe, then if it breaks loose from the tank I have a bigger issue. It currently is NOT loose from the tank, I'm assuming as the pipe won't put upwards (and it's straight down). I figure the only thing holding it is the connection/seal to the blk tank. I would like to see a pic of the "slitting" and peeling the flange that you mentioned before. I'm thinking once that makes sense to me, I will try 'unscrewing" it, and then if that doesn't work, I'll slit and pull it. Just can't picture the latter yet. Problem I have is I only have one day to do this, and once I pull the toilet, I have to complete it that day as it's used regularily. jeff

No picture. Just slit it at 12 O'clock, then 3, 6 and 9 O'clock straight down the pipe. does that help.

[mike_brez]

Yep you will be done with it in ten minuets. Drill your two holes in the flange. Small pilot hole into plywood. Get your lag screw and thread two nuts onto top and snug them up. You can now use a socket or whatever to screw it down. After screwed in remove the two nuts and your ready to install toilet.

[time_to_go_now]

mike brez wrote:
Drill a hole at three and nine and use 5/16 brass lags

Every single time I touch plumbing, things blow up and it becomes a much larger ordeal than I bargained for. Call it experience, or whatever, but I now try and use the KISS method when it comes to plumbing repairs.

It looks like you have wood floors under the flange. I would use the brass studs in Mike's pic. Install at 3 o'clock and 9 o'clock and fasten the toilet.

If you really want to use T-bolts, drill and slot the holes in the existing flange. You can hold the top of the bolt with vise grips to keep the bolt from turning while you tighten the nut.

Unless that flange is leaking, I would NOT attempt to replace it. But, that is just me.

Good luck.

[RLS7201]

Dometic has a kit for your problem. Part #385311719

Richard

[enblethen]

I do not know what toilet you are planning on using as a replacement. The Bravura from Thetford is set up for many different flange locations.
You might check this chart out
Toilet selection chart

[jeffwhite]

The Rv is on the other side of town and I'm going by memory as I had to reinstall the old toilet (as my Mother in Law is living in it). I'm pretty sure that the inside is flush (with a seam)in transition from the flange, to the downpipe. I could be wrong, but am pretty sure. Is that how the screw in one's work?
Anyway, I like Dougs suggestion as I DO have a straight down pipe, I can see the bottom of the tank easily. I"m just worried that if I put clockwise pressure on the downpipe, then if it breaks loose from the tank I have a bigger issue. It currently is NOT loose from the tank, I'm assuming as the pipe won't put upwards (and it's straight down). I figure the only thing holding it is the connection/seal to the blk tank. I would like to see a pic of the "slitting" and peeling the flange that you mentioned before. I'm thinking once that makes sense to me, I will try 'unscrewing" it, and then if that doesn't work, I'll slit and pull it. Just can't picture the latter yet. Problem I have is I only have one day to do this, and once I pull the toilet, I have to complete it that day as it's used regularily. jeff

[MountainAir05]

jeff

Either the pipe is inside or outside. Looking at your picture, I would say the flange is over the pipe coming from the tank. The only way to say for sure is cut off the top flange, then you can see which pipe goes to the flange and the other one goes to the tank. You do not want to cut the tank one, just the flange. Yes it should have a little glue when install back when. We only put a little glue at the very top of the pipe from the tank when you put it back together or none at all. This is due to its going to be very tight, so some sanding fitting will be needed.

I slit/saw which every pipe is the flange and use a screw drive or a chisel, that is up to you to you. Three or four slits and it will just peel off. I am like you building up the flange will rise the flange and if too high you will have an issue.

Go to lowes or where every you buy plumbing supplies. Find the flange you will need and build up what you need to look like what you have/can see. This will give you an ideal what you have to do.

Doug does this for a living, so he suggestion would work if you have a straight down tank pipe. You might be able to see the tank connection from outside, or drop a light down on a string on the inside. You stated that the tank pipe is loose. So I would check that out and see if possible how the pipe is connected to the tank.

If I can find another video will send you.

[dougrainer]

There are 2 ways an RV down pipe is installed in the tank
1. It is screwed in by the 3 inch pipe threads to the flange mounted on top the tank
2. It is pushed in thru a rubber gasket mounted on top the tank.
I have a tool I built to unscrew the flange. After so many years those threads are stuck tight. Another way to break the flange loose is to insert the 2 toilet mount bolts and install a pry bar and use that leverage to break it loose----counterclockwise. Doug

PS, there are NO 4 inch pipes in an RV.

[mike_brez]

Drill a hole at three and nine and use 5/16 brass lags

[jeffwhite]

Great info on the "sharkbite", that'll work well. AS far as the flange, I can see that the flange repair kit might work since I just need to relocate the J bolts, however, I'm concerned that it would raise it too much to have the toilet site solidly down....maybe????
What I don't understand is, my flange is a 3X4, so if I understand this correctly, the down pipe part of the flange will fit inside a 4" pipe, or, on the outside of a 3" pipe. Mine seems to match up flush with the pipe that goes down into the black tank.
Mountainair05: I'm not sure I completely understand about splitting it off.
I looked at the video, but it's not completely clear to me. Was the flange originally glued into a step in the pipe? If I just cut from the inside of the pipe until the flange comes off, then would I use a flange that would fit "inside the current down pipe, thereby reducing the down pipe in that first section? jeff

[John_Joey]

Go to one of the big box stores and take a look at a toilet repair flange kit. See if that will fix your problem.

[busyguy]

What mountain air said.
I cut mine out with a dremel tool and got the new flange at Lowe.s. Fit right in and you can align the slots where you need them. Use sharkbite fittings for easy water line hookups.

Busyguy

[enblethen]

The flange could be screwed on to the pipe.

[MountainAir05]

you can replace it. Just use a dremel tool and a bit and cut around the top and get it out of the way then using the tool slit the inner pipe in a couple place so that you can put a screw drive at the slit and drive it down and it should pop the flange from the outer pipe. That is the way we did it where I worked for years. Put a rag or something down pipe to catch the filings.

try this link,

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ey6c4XUNPBc