Water Leak UPDATE - FIXED

[Executive45]

Good morning fellow campers. I've developed a water leak somewhere in my system and am baffled. We normally carry about 1/4 tank of fresh water in our coach when traveling. Two weeks ago I noticed a large puddle of water under the coach and found that the fresh water tank had filled overnight and was leaking out the overflow. There is a gate valve in the electric bay that is opened to fill the FW tank and I assumed it had failed causing the problem. I cut the incoming line and put in a separate valve just behind the original one using a Shark Bite valve. Removing the old valve was not an option due to it's placement by Monaco. Anyway, that did not correct the problem. So, I removed the new valve, left the water line disconnected and turned the water back on. No water..it appeared the old valve was working just fine. I left it that way most of the day and had no leak. Put the new valve back in the line, buttoned everything up and went on my way. Today I woke up and have another puddle. A check of the FW tank shows it's full and overflowing. Both valves are OFF.

I can only assume there is another valve or a spur that runs to the FW tank ahead of the shut off valve but since all the water lines run thru the body there's no way for me to trace them back to the source. I've looked at the Manibloc system and see nothing of help there. Has anyone else had this problem? If so, what was the fix. I'm open to any and all suggestions. I've also posted this over at IRV2 to the Monaco group for help. TIA.....Dennis

[lostbytes]

Lol. Yeah. In reality, we have to be there to see the setup you have before we can really say, "hey! This should work" then realized that what we think is not the same as being there to see what (Murphy law) is doing instead. (I think I said that right).

[Executive45]

lostbytes wrote:

wa8yxm wrote:
One of the nice features of my RV Lost... The valve you suggest was installed at the factory... That said. the in-line check valve would be a better option for me because I only use tanked water. Long story as to wise but if the pump was leaking back it would keep cycling.

The story Part 1
Campground I winter at the city water has too much Chlorine. by filling the on-board and letting it sit a few minutes.. Much better tasting water

Part 2:
The campground I'm in has "issues' water wise (Lots of sand in the mic) The park I'll be in next week does not. SO I use only their well monitored for quality water all summer. Do not even hook up hoses here.

I almost said I use nothing but tank too. Except when I was camphost at logger at Stampede above Truckee. Water was ok there and no wife to listen to about it. In the past 2 class C, 1 class A and an trailer, I didn't hook up to anything. Just fill and go with extra containers of home water.

Guess we are "Glampers" :B :B :B....Dennis

[lostbytes]

wa8yxm wrote:
One of the nice features of my RV Lost... The valve you suggest was installed at the factory... That said. the in-line check valve would be a better option for me because I only use tanked water. Long story as to wise but if the pump was leaking back it would keep cycling.

The story Part 1
Campground I winter at the city water has too much Chlorine. by filling the on-board and letting it sit a few minutes.. Much better tasting water

Part 2:
The campground I'm in has "issues' water wise (Lots of sand in the mic) The park I'll be in next week does not. SO I use only their well monitored for quality water all summer. Do not even hook up hoses here.

I almost said I use nothing but tank too. Except when I was camphost at logger at Stampede above Truckee. Water was ok there and no wife to listen to about it. In the past 2 class C, 1 class A and an trailer, I didn't hook up to anything. Just fill and go with extra containers of home water.

[Executive45]

The replacement valve for the Shurflo was $17 from Amazon. The brass fitting and two brass nipples came out to $20. I think the brass in-line fitting is a better quality fix so I'll most likely leave it like it is. I have one whole house filter at the spigot and three in-house filters in the underneath compartment so I'm not sure how any debris got into the inside valve but research shows it to be a, shall we say, inferior valve. Too much plastic..Thanks again, everyone for your thoughts, answers, suggestions and insights....Dennis

[wa8yxm]

One of the nice features of my RV Lost... The valve you suggest was installed at the factory... That said. the in-line check valve would be a better option for me because I only use tanked water. Long story as to wise but if the pump was leaking back it would keep cycling.

The story Part 1
Campground I winter at the city water has too much Chlorine. by filling the on-board and letting it sit a few minutes.. Much better tasting water

Part 2:
The campground I'm in has "issues' water wise (Lots of sand in the mic) The park I'll be in next week does not. SO I use only their well monitored for quality water all summer. Do not even hook up hoses here.

[lostbytes]

Hmmm. If I had a problem like that and pump still works great. I would put an inline petcock type of valve to solve it. But, only if I had easy access to petcock tho. Otherwise, I would only do this when out of warranty. But, that's me.

[Executive45]

Thanks everyone for their input. Thanks also to all who suggested the check valve. Guess you're never too old to learn. Anyway, I stopped at the local hardware store and bought a new check valve and installed it between the fresh water tank and the pump. This should solve the problem. Eventually I'll probably get a new pump and eliminate everything I just did, but for now it works.....Dennis

[Yellowboat_]

Does this happen only when you are connected to shore water?

If so it happened to me on a two year old coach. My problem turned out to be the check valve in my two year old Shurflo pump.

I emailed Shurflo to ask a question and Shurflo volunteered to send me a replacement check valve. I installed the new check valve and my problem was solved.

Check valve kit's differ depending on the make and model of your pump. You can internet search for a check valve using the make and model number of your pump. The search should bring up pictures of the check valve that fits your pump.

The check valve is easy to install.

Safe travels. JD

[wa8yxm]

There are two paths from the city water inlet to the fresh water tank on most RV's. You know the obvious one and you positively blocked it.

The other one is the water pump. It has not one but two check valves and if they fail.. What you get is what you got.

To test.. You need a towel.

Turn off the water outlet (Or drain the fresh tank) open the pump-inlet strainer and lay a towel under it to catch any water that escapes when you open it.
now change to a dry towel and come back every hour if towel is wet. valve is leaking.

Two fixes. you already know the first. second is new pump.

[Old-Biscuit]

Pump has an INTERNAL check valve.....it typically a single diaphragm

Sometimes just using/running pump will clear whatever is holding it open (should fully close from system pressure against it)

FYI...using the pump is a good way to keep it working

[Executive45]

Artum Snowbird wrote:
Just curious Dennis.... When you went on your way, did you drain off some water from the full tank? You said you normally carry 1/4 full of fresh.

Normally, the pump pumping the fresh water tank has a check valve to prevent the fresh water from either the pumped pressure, or the outside pressure to fill the tank.

I think you might have to look at this check valve. Some are built into the pump.

Yes, I drained the tank back to 1/4 and put a piece of painter's tape on the outside to determine if any water was leaking. All was good for about 2 weeks so I thought the issue had gone away. Apparently not. A check valve was mentioned. Any idea what this valve might look like.?? TIA...Dennis

[Executive45]

Thanks for the immediate replies. I'll check the pump but it's relatively new, not that that matters....:)..Gives me a starting point anyway....Dennis

[LadyRVer]

x2 on above replies. That happened to me and it is the check valve in the pump. I need to replace the pump or I have heard there is a check valve I can install before the pump. The fresh water tank filled from the city water and overflowed,overflowed,overflowed. The dealer installed a cut off valve and it solved the problem, city water hooked up. But it is not the solution. A bandaid at best.

[Artum_Snowbird]

Just curious Dennis.... When you went on your way, did you drain off some water from the full tank? You said you normally carry 1/4 full of fresh.

Normally, the pump pumping the fresh water tank has a check valve to prevent the fresh water from either the pumped pressure, or the outside pressure to fill the tank.

I think you might have to look at this check valve. Some are built into the pump.