OK, I am ready to head out again! One last thing I had to do today was replace a double light switch to our front ceiling lights and our outdoor lights. This OEM switch has failed on me twice. The cheap toggle just gives up the ghost. Once it was repaired under warranty but I am now out of warranty. The original switch will not get a third strike chance.
It is held on with two small wood screws so comes off easily and as you can see the connections are just slip on connections requiring no tools.
The new replacement switch is pretty much a standard switch you see in RVs. In fact the under cabinet light switches in our RV are similar. It is a JR Products switch you can find online in a host of places. It cost me $8.75 but the priority shipping was a whopping $10.80. I figured an 80 mile round trip drive to an RV store would have cost me more. Here are the specs.
In order to put this larger dual light switch on so it would be flush I had to take a saber saw and increase the hole opening to 2-1/4" wide by 1-1/2" high as you see here. The connections plug back in easily. You just have to make sure the switch is in the right orientation to the way you want it.
To finish up I re-used the two wood screws from the old switch to hold the back plate flush, snapped on the cover plate and puttied the two old screw holes that are outside the new cover field. The old hole is complete covered.
Tools needed were a screw driver (#1 Robertson in this case), a saber saw, 1/4" drill bit hole for the saber saw starter corner, pencil and tape measure.
It is held on with two small wood screws so comes off easily and as you can see the connections are just slip on connections requiring no tools.
The new replacement switch is pretty much a standard switch you see in RVs. In fact the under cabinet light switches in our RV are similar. It is a JR Products switch you can find online in a host of places. It cost me $8.75 but the priority shipping was a whopping $10.80. I figured an 80 mile round trip drive to an RV store would have cost me more. Here are the specs.
In order to put this larger dual light switch on so it would be flush I had to take a saber saw and increase the hole opening to 2-1/4" wide by 1-1/2" high as you see here. The connections plug back in easily. You just have to make sure the switch is in the right orientation to the way you want it.
To finish up I re-used the two wood screws from the old switch to hold the back plate flush, snapped on the cover plate and puttied the two old screw holes that are outside the new cover field. The old hole is complete covered.
Tools needed were a screw driver (#1 Robertson in this case), a saber saw, 1/4" drill bit hole for the saber saw starter corner, pencil and tape measure.
I no longer have one. It was on my previous B. The Charge Wizard is specific to a Progressive Dynamics converter. The 2005 Pleasure-way Plateau used the 9100 series but that series had a plug in module for it. So I bought one and it was as simple as plugging it in. Here are photos from my former 2005 Pleasure-way Plateau Sprinter.
I mounted the readout inside the battery shutoff cabinet.
After 2005, I thought most companies started installing the PD 9200 series which had the 3 stage Charge Wizard built-in. I'm surprised Winnebago wasn't doing it.
I mounted the readout inside the battery shutoff cabinet.
After 2005, I thought most companies started installing the PD 9200 series which had the 3 stage Charge Wizard built-in. I'm surprised Winnebago wasn't doing it.
More work in my preparation for heading out to the RV.net B10 Rally next week.
My latest project today was to modify our table. we started out with two tables as standard that came with the B but decided to only carry one since we seldom if ever had two tables out at the same time. The table is a rectangular table that centers over a removable post.
Here is the original setup at our front cab seats turned around. It worked fairly well for two people but had its drawbacks that I will explain.
This is the original setup with one table in place at the back sofa. The idea is we would each have a table in the back if desired and there would be room to squeeze in and sit down between the two.
With the unused table I offset the post receptor 4 inches. It is still stable in this unbalanced position and gives us some flexibility. In the front I can now slip into the driver's seat without first having to slide in from the passenger seat side. I can also open the armoire door now with the table in place. Finally, it actually is in a better position for using it as a computer desk for both seats as you can turn it centered to the seat with the edge closer to you..
Here is the unbalanced setup at the front.
In the back we can share the one table easier. It too brings the edge of the table closer for computer work when you twist it around.
I had tried putting a post receptor right in the center but found it interfered with putting and pulling stored stuff under the sofa, so I removed it. After that experiment I decided to try this unbalanced approach. If we decide to go back, the holes are still there in the original position or I can use the unused table.
My latest project today was to modify our table. we started out with two tables as standard that came with the B but decided to only carry one since we seldom if ever had two tables out at the same time. The table is a rectangular table that centers over a removable post.
Here is the original setup at our front cab seats turned around. It worked fairly well for two people but had its drawbacks that I will explain.
This is the original setup with one table in place at the back sofa. The idea is we would each have a table in the back if desired and there would be room to squeeze in and sit down between the two.
With the unused table I offset the post receptor 4 inches. It is still stable in this unbalanced position and gives us some flexibility. In the front I can now slip into the driver's seat without first having to slide in from the passenger seat side. I can also open the armoire door now with the table in place. Finally, it actually is in a better position for using it as a computer desk for both seats as you can turn it centered to the seat with the edge closer to you..
Here is the unbalanced setup at the front.
In the back we can share the one table easier. It too brings the edge of the table closer for computer work when you twist it around.
I had tried putting a post receptor right in the center but found it interfered with putting and pulling stored stuff under the sofa, so I removed it. After that experiment I decided to try this unbalanced approach. If we decide to go back, the holes are still there in the original position or I can use the unused table.
What did I do today? I can't get enough cupholders. I installed this one in the back to hold a drink while sitting on the sofa...
When not in use it folds up like this...
In case you are curious, the TV remote attaches to the wall with Velcro and the fly swatter is on a hook.
I also switched fasteners on my double bathroom doors today so the magnetic latch goes on the active door and the snap latch goes on the inactive door. Since the double doors was a previous remodel of a bifold door it is rather difficult to explain and probably isn't relevant to anyone else's GWVan Legend.
When not in use it folds up like this...
In case you are curious, the TV remote attaches to the wall with Velcro and the fly swatter is on a hook.
I also switched fasteners on my double bathroom doors today so the magnetic latch goes on the active door and the snap latch goes on the inactive door. Since the double doors was a previous remodel of a bifold door it is rather difficult to explain and probably isn't relevant to anyone else's GWVan Legend.
I made a repair for my Great West Van Legend lavatory drain hose. I didn't have a good positive connection and the hose kept slipping off. It is a flexible moving hose connection because the lavatory slides in and out.
This is the drain receiver for the 3/4" flexible corrugated plastic drain hose. It is not a full 3/4" diameter and only protrudes 1/4" which did not provide enough bite to keep the hose attached.
I found this 38 cent PVC 3/4" male adapter at Home Depot and made modifications as you can see in this before and after photo. I cut off the screw thread and had to sand down the male end so the hose could slip over easier. With the threads cut off the adapters inside diameter slides loosely over the protrusion but close enough for the cement to make contact.
The drain pipe is ABS plastic and the adapter is PVC so I bought some Oatey ABS to PVC Transition Solvent Cement and liberally applied to all the contact surfaces. I was rather messy but it isn't suppose to be seen anyway. Solvent cement dissolves the plastic and essentially welds the pieces together rather than just act as a contact cement.
So far it seems to be holding and the corrugated plastic drain hose will definitely not slip off like before. I've looked at several Great West Van solutions for this before my van was built and after. They had seemed to have solved the problem after mine with more positive connections. If anyone has an older Legend with this problem, this is a fix without a lot of major re-work.
The reattached flexible hose installed today with positive attachments, tested and no leaks.
This is the drain receiver for the 3/4" flexible corrugated plastic drain hose. It is not a full 3/4" diameter and only protrudes 1/4" which did not provide enough bite to keep the hose attached.
I found this 38 cent PVC 3/4" male adapter at Home Depot and made modifications as you can see in this before and after photo. I cut off the screw thread and had to sand down the male end so the hose could slip over easier. With the threads cut off the adapters inside diameter slides loosely over the protrusion but close enough for the cement to make contact.
The drain pipe is ABS plastic and the adapter is PVC so I bought some Oatey ABS to PVC Transition Solvent Cement and liberally applied to all the contact surfaces. I was rather messy but it isn't suppose to be seen anyway. Solvent cement dissolves the plastic and essentially welds the pieces together rather than just act as a contact cement.
So far it seems to be holding and the corrugated plastic drain hose will definitely not slip off like before. I've looked at several Great West Van solutions for this before my van was built and after. They had seemed to have solved the problem after mine with more positive connections. If anyone has an older Legend with this problem, this is a fix without a lot of major re-work.
The reattached flexible hose installed today with positive attachments, tested and no leaks.
