What did you do to your Class C MH today???

[Rich_Panganiban]

This is always a fun thread to watch in other forums, so I thought I'd start one here.

[camperdave]

Got the Class C out of storage and did a little clean up last week to get ready for the late season. The lockdowns have been rough, I really miss travelling!

After cleaning, I went over the rig and Dicor'd a few spots. Most notably the cabover area. Nothing looks to have been leaking, but there were some trouble spots starting in the corners. I pulled off the outside trim pieces and all looked ok underneath so just sealed them back up and snugged in new slightly oversize SS screws (they were loosening a bit at the ends of the trim).

On the inside I restrung a day/night pleated shade that snapped a string on our last trip in January, not as tough as I thought. For a $20 kit I saved having to buy a new $120 blind! Beer money. :B

I also relocated my spare from the rear to a storage compartment so I could snug up the bike rack a little closer to the back, and move some weight forward at the same time. Also relocated my rear camera by mounting it to the old tire mounting bracket. Free and easy, my favorite kind of mod!

Taking it in to a shop in a few days for an oil change and once over by the mechanic, ready to hit the road!

[smartmahabub]

Planning to travel once more before winter is supposed to take me out for a few days..........

[GKAbbott]

Coachmen 21QB gets some love


A couple of years ago, I started a thread about why manufacturers build such shoddy rv's. I hypothesized that it was to keep owners like me busy after the purchase. As it turns out, I was wrong. I need something to keep me busy even when nothing is falling apart due to poor workmanship.

So, the mods begin.

Our camper has an led striplight that runs along the awning frame. It's nice. But, we didn't have a proper amber porch light. A quick visit to everybody's favorite online retailer, and a light and rocker switch were on the way. Installation was easy as long as you don't mind removing numerous inside panels and running a snake through your camper to get the wiring where it needs to be. Oh yeah, don't forget to cut a hole to mount the additional switch.

Since I was already running wire, I decided to add a 12v outlet to our outside compartment. It's connected to the house battery through a 5A fuse. Now I can power my satellite radio outside.


Our low end unit doesn't have a radio in the house and the dash radio only played when the ignition switch was either in the accessory or run position. To remedy that short coming, I installed a DPST switch that allows the house batteries to power the in dash entertainment system. This required removing a few I interior trim pieces and the in dash unit. A little online research and I determined which two wires needed to be switchable. One of the wires is constant hot. The other switched through the ignition switch. The DPST switch and the necessary wire I had laying around, so no additional parts required. For those paying attention, I fused the "ignition sense" wire at 3A and the constant hot at 15A.

Next, I added a swivel to the passenger seat. It's pretty straightforward. Remove the seat and pedestal. Remove the seat from the pedestal and reinstall it on the swivel pedestal. There's an electrical connection under the seat that some say must be disconnected when you swivel the seat. With a little forethought, the wiring can be rerouted to alleviate that problem. I ordered the swivel online. It was about $250.

While I had the passenger seat removed, I decided to remove the driver's seat and floor liner/mat as well. I added poor man's sound deadener (peel and seal) throughout the entire floor area. This makes an enormous difference in noise levels in the cab. Peel and seal can be sourced from Lowe's and many other places. Read the reviews.

Since I had most of the interior apart, I decided to remove the "B pillar " and headliner trim to have a look around. I found a few wires for the dome light that needed rerouting. Also, a few places that needed to be sealed against the elements.

Removing the trim allowed access to the wiring for the rear speaker wiring. Did I mention, low end camper? No rear speakers installed from the factory. I took the opportunity to install a pair that I had from another project.

Next.....

How about a 300w solar system. I had some used panels hanging around, a Morningstar controller and plenty wire. Installed the controller near the 12v outlet mentioned earlier. Wired it to the house battery through a 30A fuse using #6 wire I had on hand. Wired the panels together using #8 that I had leftover from another job. I built a #6 pigtail connected to the Morningstar solar input. To connect he portable panels to the controller, I use a 25ft #6 extension cable. DONE!!!!

Not quite. If you have solar, you might as well have an inverter. I happened to have an 1800w continous Tripplite that I wasn't using. So, mount the inverter in an appropriate place, run some #4 wire through a 100A fuse and voila, DC to AC. Those of you paying attention realize that 100A fuse will not support 1800 w. I plan to limit our use to 1200w or less.

Is that it? Yes, for now.

Merry Christmas to my camper


On a side note. I didn't find any OSB or MDF in the construction of our unit. Lots of luan and 1X1 and staples.

[rickemo]

Replaced the original 24” Jensen TV in the above the cab entertainment center with a 32” Vizio smart TV. I had to make a frame out of plywood to replace the old frame the I covered the new frame with leather to match the original decor.

[allnight]

Found a new home for the old beast.

The old storage lot lost their lease (dead land-owner's trust sold the lot out from under the storage company), so had to scramble to find a home for it.

I got the certified letter about the contract cancellation on Friday before last, and got up early the next morning to find a new home. Turns out that a LOT of the rv owners were calling around...but since I showed up, I got one of the two open spots. Talk about lucky! My old lot was about 6.5 miles away, the new one is almost across the freeway from them, and the next storage lot that can handle a 40' RV is almost 25 miles away.

Phew!

Mike

[pnichols]

camperdave wrote:
That's a good idea! I'd need to install a reversible fan to try it out though. 🙂

One other thing I read after the fact was to make sure the van HVAC is off or in recirc mode, and not in vent or outside air mode. I didn't think about that at the time either, and don't recall where it was set when setting off the CO alarm.

I wanted the Genturi anyway for backup generator at home reasons, since the RV is right next to the house (generator exhaust facing house). This way I can run it as long as I want powering the home fridge without worry.

Thanks for reminding of something I left out regarding maintaining pressure inside of one's Class C for fume-less generator runs: Yes you're correct ... the cab's dash air system should also be set to recirculation mode when trying to maintain coach interior air pressure.

FWIW, keeping the cab's dash air system set to recirculation mode also helps keep the motorhome's interior free of exposure to cold outside air whenever camping in low outside temperatures.

BTW, I think that the Ford cab dash air system requires the engine to be running in order to change the opening and closing of the flapper doors that control the routing of air flow in the cab area - because these flapper doors are activated via engine vacuum.

[camperdave]

That's a good idea! I'd need to install a reversible fan to try it out though. 🙂

One other thing I read after the fact was to make sure the van HVAC is off or in recirc mode, and not in vent or outside air mode. I didn't think about that at the time either, and don't recall where it was set when setting off the CO alarm.

I wanted the Genturi anyway for backup generator at home reasons, since the RV is right next to the house (generator exhaust facing house). This way I can run it as long as I want powering the home fridge without worry.

[pnichols]

camperdave wrote:
So on our recent vacation I set off the CO alarm twice. Both times were in open parking lots with no obstructions around (~90 degrees with no wind), after running the generator (for air conditioning) right at about the 2 hour mark. This was the first time since having the RV that we've run the generator so long while stationary. The first alarm I thought maybe it was a fluke, but since it happened again a few days later it was now a pattern. :B

No issues running for hours on end while driving.

So yesterday I installed our new Genturi. Also replaced the original (15 year old) CO alarm, and added a second one up front that has a digital readout of the CO level just for redundancy. Also replaced the smoke detector and propane detector since I was on a safety kick.

For the support hanger, I used a Sea Sucker rear tire holder (Sea Sucker makes bicycle racks, I happen to own one already so I 'borrowed' the rear wheel holder). The strap on it was already a perfect length to wrap around the pipe, and with a block of custom cut wood screwed on to cradle the pipe, it's almost factory looking.

Ready for the heat now! :C

There is another way to absolutely keep carbon monoxide out of your RV when running the generator - no matter what the wind outside is doing.

We maintain a pressure inside the coach so no generator fumes can enter anywhere below roof height:

Before starting up the generator, close all doors, wndows, and roof vents except one - which you probably want to do anyway in hot weather when running the generator and A/C to keep the interior cool.

Keep one of the roof vents open that has a reversible fan in it. Switch the fan direction to "air in". Since the fan can't actually bring in any air because all coach openings are closed ... all the fan is doing is slightly raising the air pressure inside the coach.

This slight air pressure inside the coach prevents any generator fumes from entering anywhere below roof height - this includes all cracks, small openings, etc., that might be present in the coach structure. Generator fumes have dissipated by the time they get way up near the center of the roof where the vent fan is located.

This works like a champ for us to keep the inside of the coach fume-free when running the generator. We also use this same method for keeping dust out of the coach interior when traveling on gravel or dirt roads. We only have to use the slowest speed for the roof vent fan to maintain a slight interior pressure.

The only place where this technique might not work is when parking under a roof or in a tunnel ... whenever running the generator. 😉

[memtb]

Finally got around to changing the oil on the V-10, and on the little Onan. Also, changed the serpentine belt on the V-10. I have a large list of things to upgrade/add-on (solar panels (4), solar charge controller, inverter, Sirius/XM antenna, satellite dish....maybe one day! Heck.....we don’t even have time to use the darn thing! :M memtb

[pnichols]

I searched all over the Internet and finally found it, ordered it, and installed it day before yesterday:

A replacement for the bulb on our outside light (by the exit door): An adjustable angle, super bright (450 lumens), warm white (not that glaring blue-white daylight) spectrum ... LED bulb for the stock 1141 socket light receptacle on the outside wall.

Wow - what a great bright, low battery drain, cozy ambiance light for the RV's outside. Due to it being in the warm white part of the color spectrum, I can now tell the true color of the steaks I'm grilling under the awning in the evenings! :C

[IAMICHABOD]

bob shelton wrote:
just bought a new forest river sunseeker le 22 ft. with chevy chassie.

[bob_shelton]

just bought a new forest river sunseeker le 22 ft. with chevy chassie.

[bob_shelton]

just a new forest river sunseeker le 22 ft. with chevy chassie.

[pianotuna]

Purchased oil and filters for next change.