What did you do to your Class C MH today???

[Rich_Panganiban]

This is always a fun thread to watch in other forums, so I thought I'd start one here.

[rehoppe]

Well I didn't do it, but I had the front end aligned on the Jayco. Drives a bit better now that it's towed in, instead of towed out. Added a bit of camber as well. Makes the worn shocks more noticeable now though. More stuff to be done.

[ronfisherman]

Did a few small projects yesterday and today.
Cleaned up the wiring in Audio/Video cabinet. Down to 3 AC cords and 3 antenna wires. Very neat and clean now. LCD TVs now do all the switching for Satellite, DVD and Antenna.
Removed old caulk and put new caulk on shower surround.
Replaced fresh water tank drain valve. Original ran up hill from tank.
Hooked up remote water input to tank washers. No more water getting in to basement compartment when flushing tanks.
Replaced 50 amp portable Surge Guard with a hard wired unit.
Need to wash MH before we take it up north for a Balloon Fest next weekend.

[tenbear]

I finally got fed up fighting with the fresh water drain cock so I replaced it. Over the years it had gotten harder and harder to open and close, had to use vice grips to turn it. Now it turns just using my fingers.

[4BeachCampers]

After drilling holes, taking apart walls, crawling under the RV and pulling apart the dash board, I finally got the Back up Camera Installed.
And while I had some of the walls removed I added a light on the back of the RV.

[H3OHIO]

After having our thermostat stick a couple of times and wake up to a 58 degree motorhome because the air ran all night, I decided to do the Hunter Digital Thermostat uprgade. Went on fast and easy, only took about 7 minutes. I still need to get the switch so I can run the fan on Low or High speed, but at least we won't get froze while we sleep!

[Handbasket]

It was late last week instead of today, but I added a 12V outlet to the face of the back part of the couch. This'll let me run the power lead for my telescope out the window, and keep from running the computer's power lead across the aisle.

I've needed to do this for a couple of years. But I didn't want to deal with running the wiring under the shower pan, expecting a major hassle. But It was an easy fix. I used one of the skinny stainless steel splines from a long windshield wiper blade. Taped the two wires to it, and pushed it thru the tight space alongside the water line and some factory wires that also run under the shower pan. Took about 5 minutes. I usually have one of those splines in my tool collection. Dunno why I didn't think of that method sooner. Those things have a lot of uses for something that's free.

Jim, "What do you call a musician without a girlfriend? Homeless!"

[W4MBG]

well, i just cleaned the roof for the first time. 2 hours of scrubbing with BKF. fun. NOT! but its white now, not mottled gray and black. btw, close the roof vents when washing the roof. not bad, but any water is too much. all said, very good experience.

[TreeSeeker]

I have been thinking of using weather stripping under the lip of the vent covers but only on the front and sides, leaving the back open for drainage. Most of the stuff that gets in probably comes in from the front and sides when driving so this should prevent 95% of it.

[Replant]

W4MBG wrote:
i have some aluminum tape i can try across the front of the covers. if stuff still gets onto the screens i can tape around the entire cover(s), leaving a few weep holes.

I hadn't thought of that. I have some of that wide aluminum A/C duct tape that could reach from the hood to my aluminum roof. To prevent leaves from sticking to the tape it would be best to put something down the center to cover the unneeded adhesive.
Another method would be to tape strips of screening around the bottom of the hood. That might be a better idea. 😄

[W4MBG]

i have some aluminum tape i can try across the front of the covers. if stuff still gets onto the screens i can tape around the entire cover(s), leaving a few weep holes.

[Replant]

W4MBG wrote:
replant: i read somewhere that sealing the cover to the roof was a bad idea. water gets in eventually but cant get back out. but i like the idea of just sealing the front edge to prevent water from being driven under the cover from driving in the rain.

I was thinking more of a deflector or screen to stop leaves and pine needles from blowing under the hood and into the coach. Actually even bugs can get under the hood and down the shaft of the hand crank. The hole is large enough. It's a pain taking the screen down so often for cleaning .

[W4MBG]

ot63: my comment was about the covers that go on the roof over the factory roof vents, like maxxaire, camco, ramble, etc. and on that note, i finished installing the last two covers today. finally, full-time ventilation!

[snowdance]

TreeSeeker wrote:
LED lights are factory sealed. You still have to seal the base of course.

Some are sealed. But lots are not. I bought two that were not and removed the reflector from one and stuck it in place of the bulb light on the electic steps. I then took the other and got rid of the cover and reflector and cut the ends so it fit in side the out side light using the old lens. Getting rid of the bulb light there. The led bulb is sealed but the board was not also they were open to the back where the wire went thru.

[TreeSeeker]

LED lights are factory sealed. You still have to seal the base of course.

[snowdance]

rehoppe wrote:
Herm---what ically Sealed? Think that's the way to go.

If you don't let it in,,, you don't have to worry about letting it out. Much like rodents.

That means you will also need to seal the lens to the base and seal the back of the base where the wires go thru. I have done this. However they did leak some way and I had to replace them however because of rust from being sealed. It took 3 years but we were in Fla.